Members RocknRollRebyl Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 So i wanna replace all the stock tubes in my bugera 6262 as they sound well...guess. Anyways, i want to put a At7 in the P1 position, and AX7s in the other 5 (v1-v5 i believe seing as there is 6 preamp tubes). However, I have no clue which socket is which on this amp. Id image the one all the way to the right is the p1, then it goes from there but id just like to be sure. ALSO right now when i play it stock, alot of heat comes from the power tubes, it smells wierd and they glow orange...does this mean theyre biased too hot?? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RocknRollRebyl Posted May 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RocknRollRebyl Posted May 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BluesMan60 Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 The only way to know about the bias issue is to check them. The easiest way is with a "bias probe" like a Bias Rite, Bias King, Compu Bias, etc. Anything else is just guessing. The power tubes SHOULD be too hot to touch even when biased correctly. A GREAT 12AT7 is the Mullard CV4024. Might be the last one you'll ever need as NOS tubes last MUCH longer than new production tubes. Tung Sol Reissue 12AX7s are good, for new tubes, NOS GEs would be even better but more expensive. SED, aka "Winged C", 6L6GCs would be the way to go for tone, reliability and cost effectiveness. Mike K KCA NOS and New Production Tubes www.kcanostubes.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RocknRollRebyl Posted May 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 thanks i have a good idea of what tubes to use, now all i need to know is what order they go in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knucklefux Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 The only way to know about the bias issue is to check them. The easiest way is with a "bias probe" like a Bias Rite, Bias King, Compu Bias, etc. Anything else is just guessing. The power tubes SHOULD be too hot to touch even when biased correctly.A GREAT 12AT7 is the Mullard CV4024. Might be the last one you'll ever need as NOS tubes last MUCH longer than new production tubes. uh, i don't think so. there are several methods of checking bias that don't require a bias probe that aren't guesses. also, the PI should be replaced when the power tubes are. spending gobs of money on a NOS 12AT7 for the PI is stupid. you can buy a NOS JAN phillips 12AT7 for $8 right now. since that's actually CHEAPER than many new production tubes, it's the only reason i'd recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CaViTaTioN Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 hey let me know what you decide to replace the preamp tubes with. i bought a 6262 off the bay and it has some technical issues (what a surprise that was...) but it is getting replaced with a tested working 6262. mine fired up but there was some sort of microphonic feedback issue. I will say that through the wall of feedback I could tell that it's definitely a high gain beast on the super super cheap. I tried swapping tube and I couldnt find the layout anywhere. I wonder if it follows the somewhat strange 5150ii preamp tube layout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RocknRollRebyl Posted May 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 yeah i had that same problem with the microphonic feedback but luckily it went away a few hours later and hasent been back in weeks. I have to ask you though, does yours sound unbearably trebly and harsh? thats how mine is when i play with the volume cranked. im hoping a new cab and a retubing will fix that though, if not im returning it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RocknRollRebyl Posted May 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 i just found a preamp tube schematic of a 5150II, does anyone think it would be the same for the Bugera or opposite because the input on the Bugera is on the right, unlike the 5150 which is on the left?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BluesMan60 Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 uh, i don't think so. there are several methods of checking bias that don't require a bias probe that aren't guesses. I said EASIEST. Nothing is easier or SAFER than using a bias probe...especially for a novice. also, the PI should be replaced when the power tubes are. spending gobs of money on a NOS 12AT7 for the PI is stupid. you can buy a NOS JAN phillips 12AT7 for $8 right now. since that's actually CHEAPER than many new production tubes, it's the only reason i'd recommend it. PI tubes can make a world of difference to tone...especially when the amp is cranked. Not sure where you'll find a JAN Philips for $8, but that would be a good deal. The Mullard is a MUCH better tube though. Mike K KCA NOS Tubes www.kcanostubes.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knucklefux Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 mojo has em AND the tube depot has them. they might be $9 if you don't get the discount. i agree that the PI can make a big difference, but coughing up the dough for a mullard for the PI is stupid. you said that anything other than a bias probe was guessing, or at least that's what i got from it. i may have misread what you were trying to say, if so i apologize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BluesMan60 Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 mojo has em AND the tube depot has them. they might be $9 if you don't get the discount.i agree that the PI can make a big difference, but coughing up the dough for a mullard for the PI is stupid. you said that anything other than a bias probe was guessing, or at least that's what i got from it. i may have misread what you were trying to say, if so i apologize. It's all good. What I meant was, if you don't CHECK the bias (with a probe or some other objective method) you'd be guessing. Lot's of people talk about glow and heat which are subjective and inconclusive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CaViTaTioN Posted May 2, 2009 Members Share Posted May 2, 2009 yeah i had that same problem with the microphonic feedback but luckily it went away a few hours later and hasent been back in weeks. I have to ask you though, does yours sound unbearably trebly and harsh? thats how mine is when i play with the volume cranked. im hoping a new cab and a retubing will fix that though, if not im returning it.. well the feedback thing is weird. it has this howling, cocked-wah feedback thing that goes until you start playing. once you start playing the cocked wah thing disappears and your tone returns to normal, 5150ii ripoff land. I have been reading on here that adding a resonance control to the circuit would help and I am sure that would definitely be a plus. only thing about that is unless you could do it yourself it will cost $ and bring you the price point of a used 5150-or 5150ii the stock bugera tubes have the flimsiest pins I have seen in a preamp tube which I thought might have something to do with things but tbh the whole amp is a corner cutter I am assuming so my expectations aren't astronomical by any means. once I get my replacement I am going to do some clips and see how it fares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Victor_NG17 Posted September 19, 2015 Members Share Posted September 19, 2015 Slots on a 6262 Infinium right to left (from input jack end) are; V1 = clean channel, V2 Clean/Lead channel, V3/V4/V5 = Lead channel, V6 = Phase Inverter (both channels). I got this information directly from Bugera (I have a 6262)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted September 21, 2015 Members Share Posted September 21, 2015 I doubt the poster is around any more. You bumped a thread from 6 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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