Members dahlungril Posted October 1, 2009 Members Share Posted October 1, 2009 I have a Traynor YCV40 with the stock loaded Celestion Seventy80 speaker. It's OKAY in the clean channel, and Slightly less then okay in the drive channel, but when the boost switch is enabled and a low E is chunked it's as though the reasonance point of speaker is hit and a low frequency swell occurs, not unlike a giant fart. So I need to replace the speaker. I am looking at the Eminence Governor to replace it, does anyone know if these speakers have the same fastener holes to mount it to the baffle in the combo? or do new holes need to be drilled? Thanks for your time & input. -dcs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted October 1, 2009 Members Share Posted October 1, 2009 I believe you'll be OK I have both eminence and celestrons and they both have the asm spacing. there may be minute differences at the actual hole size on the rim, and in the case of a front load the rim size can be slightly different in a tight fit, but you can usually work around it with a rasp file so the speaker isnt forced into an overly tight fit. Wit a back mount it shouldnt be a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members SoldierStape01 Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 dahlungril! Except for having the two components, the amplifier and speakers, nothing is more important than the ratio between them, except you and your guitar, so I'm taking this very seriously. I hope you don't mind. I'm typing about a hundred miles away from where I first met Pete Traynor, when he was an employee of a music store in Toronto, Ontario, a long time ago. He liked to come out front and sit and watch or jam with other guitarists, a busy store for sure. The wiring diagram for pickup electronics his business friend, lead guitarist Len Jeffrey, drew out for me is the closest to what worked out for me, at the time a controversial thing, combining two humbuckers with Gibson value wiring on a Strat, while retaining two Fender pickups. Even DiMarzio's two letters with diagrams weren't close. When I look at this diagram, it's almost like looking at Les Paul's log, an antique, compared to the transistors, analogs and digitals that followed. Mr. Traynor made it big, at first, by building affordable amplifiers with Marshall templates, with Canadian (North American) electronic values, understanding the ratios between the different voltages of England and us, and what Marshall was doing. He was much imitated by other North American manufacturers. His 100 watt "Rogue" head might have been purchased by some guitarists for the fan on the side, the only other similar product besides Marshall that was available with this feature, in North America. It made me smile, seeing my first Traynor amplifier with Celestion speakers, which even replaced Marshalls' own as production parts. I hope you don't think I'm repeating myself, as I've mentioned this and uploaded a scan of this diagram already, with other manufacturing letters from this era in another thread. I know exactly where you're at with the clean, drive and boost, and the low frequency fart. At least it's not blown completely, if it's either worn out from high volume use or abused by extra low frequency voltage from improperly balanced effects. While Traynor guitar amps for me are part of my past, I still have a powered mixer from the 70's, one of his most popular products, working like new, for nostalgia as much as tone as part of my practice P.A. And that's because I can get lazy and just plug my guitar into that, and use it like an amp, unless it's a stage emergency, having blown a Marshall speaker, a nice feature for road bands many P.A. manufacturers ignored. Yes, I'm selling you on the idea that your amp is worth maintaining with respect, because I don't know the electrical values of the model you're typing about or the replacement speaker you mention. Keeping the same ratio between the ohmage and wattage of the original speaker with the amplifier is important, if you like how it sounds already, and that's with your almost blown speaker. Taking your blown Marshall speaker into the store the next day was almost as much a part of your stage act for most guitarists back then, if you were into ambient feedback. And the ratio between your amps output and speaker input is what enables that response. A 50 watt head with 70-80 watts of speakers and a 100 watt head with 130-150 watts of speakers was ideal, both for Marshall and Traynor. In the U.S., Fender twins and Super Reverbs too. These aren't considerations you mentioned. You might be using this old Traynor in your stable, pumping up a radio at night to soothe the horses, or in your boat stall for tunes when you're scraping barnicals. You seem more interested in where the mounting holes are, as if there's a difference. If your replacement speaker is that different, I'd think it's too different overall and wouldn't have the quality of similar values, that ratio, to match. I hope you don't think I expect you to have too much consideration for these concerns, especially with the very different replies you have here, domestic, for me, and foreign, for you. I can only assume the rest. If you are on a journey of discovery, changing speakers to experiment with additional effect voltages or strange linear feeds from other foreign equipment, that may have been designed to make your onshore production gradually fail, I'd install those mounting brackets that don't need either interior access if approaching them from the exterior, or exterior access if you're approaching them from the interior. If you're working alone, and can't hold and tighten all the mounting nuts and bolts with accurate pressure, you might be installing your own problem or gradually develop another E.Q. noise. Here's a pick of what's laying around here, Altec-Lansing brackets from 1972, good for one 12" speaker, and building a career as a player, not a consumer. It's been an extra pleasure to type with Pete Traynor and your continued use in mind. as always, John Watt :blah: *cough*WTF*cough* ....excuse me I had to clear my throat.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Victory Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 dahlungril! Except for having the two components, the amplifier and speakers, nothing is more important than the ratio between them, except you and your guitar, so I'm taking this very seriously. I hope you don't mind. I'm typing about a hundred miles away from where I first met Pete Traynor, when he was an employee of a music store in Toronto, Ontario, a long time ago. He liked to come out front and sit and watch or jam with other guitarists, a busy store for sure. The wiring diagram for pickup electronics his business friend, lead guitarist Len Jeffrey, drew out for me is the closest to what worked out for me, at the time a controversial thing, combining two humbuckers with Gibson value wiring on a Strat, while retaining two Fender pickups. Even DiMarzio's two letters with diagrams weren't close. When I look at this diagram, it's almost like looking at Les Paul's log, an antique, compared to the transistors, analogs and digitals that followed. Mr. Traynor made it big, at first, by building affordable amplifiers with Marshall templates, with Canadian (North American) electronic values, understanding the ratios between the different voltages of England and us, and what Marshall was doing. He was much imitated by other North American manufacturers. His 100 watt "Rogue" head might have been purchased by some guitarists for the fan on the side, the only other similar product besides Marshall that was available with this feature, in North America. It made me smile, seeing my first Traynor amplifier with Celestion speakers, which even replaced Marshalls' own as production parts. I hope you don't think I'm repeating myself, as I've mentioned this and uploaded a scan of this diagram already, with other manufacturing letters from this era in another thread. I know exactly where you're at with the clean, drive and boost, and the low frequency fart. At least it's not blown completely, if it's either worn out from high volume use or abused by extra low frequency voltage from improperly balanced effects. While Traynor guitar amps for me are part of my past, I still have a powered mixer from the 70's, one of his most popular products, working like new, for nostalgia as much as tone as part of my practice P.A. And that's because I can get lazy and just plug my guitar into that, and use it like an amp, unless it's a stage emergency, having blown a Marshall speaker, a nice feature for road bands many P.A. manufacturers ignored. Yes, I'm selling you on the idea that your amp is worth maintaining with respect, because I don't know the electrical values of the model you're typing about or the replacement speaker you mention. Keeping the same ratio between the ohmage and wattage of the original speaker with the amplifier is important, if you like how it sounds already, and that's with your almost blown speaker. Taking your blown Marshall speaker into the store the next day was almost as much a part of your stage act for most guitarists back then, if you were into ambient feedback. And the ratio between your amps output and speaker input is what enables that response. A 50 watt head with 70-80 watts of speakers and a 100 watt head with 130-150 watts of speakers was ideal, both for Marshall and Traynor. In the U.S., Fender twins and Super Reverbs too. These aren't considerations you mentioned. You might be using this old Traynor in your stable, pumping up a radio at night to soothe the horses, or in your boat stall for tunes when you're scraping barnicals. You seem more interested in where the mounting holes are, as if there's a difference. If your replacement speaker is that different, I'd think it's too different overall and wouldn't have the quality of similar values, that ratio, to match. I hope you don't think I expect you to have too much consideration for these concerns, especially with the very different replies you have here, domestic, for me, and foreign, for you. I can only assume the rest. If you are on a journey of discovery, changing speakers to experiment with additional effect voltages or strange linear feeds from other foreign equipment, that may have been designed to make your onshore production gradually fail, I'd install those mounting brackets that don't need either interior access if approaching them from the exterior, or exterior access if you're approaching them from the interior. If you're working alone, and can't hold and tighten all the mounting nuts and bolts with accurate pressure, you might be installing your own problem or gradually develop another E.Q. noise. Here's a pick of what's laying around here, Altec-Lansing brackets from 1972, good for one 12" speaker, and building a career as a player, not a consumer. It's been an extra pleasure to type with Pete Traynor and your continued use in mind. as always, John Watt Here's Johnny , checking out the resonate tone of the wood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dahlungril Posted October 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 Well, Thanks, I installed the Governer no problems. Watt, it's a newer amp (2004) and well, the stock speaker is just rubbish/possibly blown. Anyways, I gave it a little low volume test run last night and it's all together different type of sound, and I am super happy with it. This is my first speaker replacement, and I went through all of the Freq-response curves and specs of various manufacutrers and models, and came to the conclusion (with budget factored in) that this was the speaker, tonally I would try first. I just really wanted to make sure it fit in the amp. Thanks for telling me about the wiring of your old Les Paul or whatever though...I didn't follow that post at all. It may interest you that yes the wholes did line up, and the folks at yorkville were kind enough to install hammer in threaded inserts to the baffle, making speaker replacement a breeze. The trickyest part was figuring out how to get the grill off! It's a steel gril cloth covered, and held in place by compression fittings of all things. Interesting! Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members SoldierStape01 Posted October 2, 2009 Members Share Posted October 2, 2009 Glad to here it went smooth for you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dahlungril Posted October 6, 2009 Author Members Share Posted October 6, 2009 Yeah I was a little bit rough with pullin off the grill and made a little pull in the cloth threads, hardly noticeable until upclose inspection though. Hell, last time I gigged a mud fight broke out and all our gear got covered in the stuff. So there's a big brown stain in the front of the cloth anyways...serves me right for putting it near the front of a 1ton flatbed. Man that was a fun gig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dahlungril Posted October 6, 2009 Author Members Share Posted October 6, 2009 Haha yeah man, I hear the only way to get giraffe drool out is with monkey sperm. But if you intend on going ahead with that stain removal technique I recommend using rubber gloves...you don't want to catch the AIDS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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