Painting a Tele Body W/ Duplicolor ..

Hi. I'm going to use Duplicolor Perfect Match spray lacquer to finish my Warmoth

Tele body. The body is solid Alder. Question: Do I need to apply a sanding

sealer before the primer? . . and if so, which kind would be compatible? Would

Deft S&S in a spray can work? Also, would you recommend I just use the

Duplicolor clear coat or is there some advantage to using something else, like

Deft or ReRanch nitro? I have to use spray cans because I have no other

equipment. Thanks for any help!

You can seal and prime in one step by coating the body with epoxy resin. This is because epoxy contains 100% solids and does not shrink (so it will fill and level the grain), and a sanded epoxy surface can take nearly any lacquer, varnish or paint known to man.

Epoxy applied to the bare, finish-sanded wood. Use a plastic edge to put it on and spread it around, ensuring there is no excess (certainly no sags or runs). You want it to soak into the wood, not not let it build.  Let it harden for 24 hours, then wet-sand with 320, clean thoroughly with a wet rag and it's ready for finish coating.

For the epoxy, go to some marine products outlet where they sell fiberglassing supplies and such. Find a clear epoxy that is intended for cold-weather application to glass cloth. This type of resin is quite thin and runny at room temperature, which is an advantage: it penetrates wood and spreads easily. I used this stuff many years ago, with great results:  http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/ColdCure-c31.htm

Spraying with a can isn't the best, but you can get good results. Spray thin coats, avoiding sags and runs. It's better to put on several light coats than one heavy one.  You can remove spray stipple by a cut and polish process. Put on enough coats, then wet sand with 400 to 600 paper, and hand polish with a rubbing compound and then polishing compound, like Meguiar's or whatever:

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g18016-rubbing-compound/

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g18116-polishing-compound/

Just use shellac as a sealer.

The general rule to finishing is if you're using an alcohol based paint like lacquer, you stick with an alcohol based primer and clear coat. You never mix polys or oils with an alcohol finish or you'll have issues with bonding or cracking.

I definitely wouldn't use a poly like epoxy. One bang and the paint will chip off, and one scratch and the lacquer will peel off the surface. It will likely chip off as it hardens as well.

Lacquer never fully dries. It a resin based finish. Its great for wood because wood expands and contracts and the lacquer remains flexible for a good 20~30 years.  

Shellac uses a similar resin and the lacquer paint will actually melt into the shellac making for a single thick coat that breaths with the wood. The clear cost should also be lacquer as it melts into the lacquer paint and avoids the onion skin effect of separate layers. Experts will tell you this gives the wood better tone as well.

The other good part of using shellac is you can sand it baby assed smooth and get rid off any flaws before painting. 

The other option is to use a matching duplicolor sealer. This will ensure a proper bond between the sealer and the paint. Just be sure its sanded smooth. Paint nor clear coat will fill in flaws or sandpaper marks. If they are there before you begin, they will still be there afterwards.