Pope on a Rope

The treble bleed mod can get you jangle with humbuckers.

With humbuckers I use a .001uF capacitor on the bridge volume pot. The neck pickup I'll use .022uF or the .001uF depending on what I feel like at the time. The 001uf cap doesn't cut the highs so much when you adjust the volume down.

Set some dirt on your amp and roll back the volume on the guitar. Lowering the volume cuts and cleans up the lows leaving the dirt on the highs. It also adds a bit of a compression effect.

It's certainly worth trying before changing out the pickups. Cheap and easy to undo.

Oh yes. I Am sorry. How presumptuous of me to post an answer based on personal observation and experience.

How are the saddles on the P90 guitar shaped? I suspect that they are not barrel type saddles like on your other guitars.

Not unless Fender was trying to sell Coca-Cola or Pepsi. I don't remember which it was but I know it wasn't a guitar commercial from Fender.

I would use 400 grit to sand it all down. Then 600 grit for sanding the primer coat after respraying it.

Even though you used only a couple coats it will still leave visible edges and a noticeable dip if you prime over that now. You have to sand each coat back (feather), using a block to make the surface as flat as possible to prevent the edges of each coat from standing out in additional coats. You should have more primer exposed between the color coat and the bare wood.

Sand with a block until you can't feel any edges between the wood and the top layer of paint. You usually need to sand quite a bit away from the actual chip or whatever you are trying to repair.

At the stage you're in now, I would feather back all the edges, rough up the rest of it and prime the whole thing again. The way you are doing it now is just a lot of extra work. It's quicker and easier just to work on the body as a whole rather than pecking at bunch of little defects.

If you find defects that need attention after you prime you should use the filler over the primer. I would use polyester putty. It's meant for filling small defects and scratches and can be used over bare metal, bare wood, paint and primer. It also sands easy and does not shrink. I wouldn't use wood putty unless I was trying to match wood for a stained or another transparent finish.

Any imperfection that gets painted over will be magnified just like Angry Tele said. Those edges will stand out. the edges of the sanded areas should really be feathered out before applying sealer and primer.

You can't just sand out spots like that. That will be quite noticeable when you paint it. You need to feather the edges out much further than the actual area you are repairing. That will look as bad as it did with the painted over chips and gouges.

Get a hand job.

Why should I hate him because you don't like what he said? Some of you are {censored}ing pussies when it comes to what other people say.

Sharp fret ends are a training tool used to teach girly-handed bitches how to relax their grip and not strangle the guitar's neck as they play.

Before replacing anything, try some lubricated contact cleaner in the switch and pots.

You humorless twats all seemed to skip over and cut out the actual meat of my post.

Probably the humidity (or lack thereof). I live in Maine (where it gets REALLY humid) and I had a guitar tech tell me that if you have a guitar with an unfinished neck, it must stay in its case during the summer. Or else.

If that were true my SG would be a pretzel. I left it hanging with no finish for two years in a non climate controlled environment in New England.

If wood was as prone to warping and twisting as many people seem to believe, historic buildings and antique furniture would look like they were designed by architects and carpenters from Whoville.

It wouldn't be on any guitar that I wouldn't use myself.

I've left necks around for months at a time and a few for multiple years without loosening the truss rods and never had a problem when I put them on a guitar. It may take a little more time for it to acclimate to to the tension again but there were no other issues what so ever.

Unless they are being stored in a drafty, old barn a damp, musty basement or on the dashboard of an Arizona pickup truck I wouldn't worry a whole lot about it.

That's the n00bs for ya.

From some posts it sounds like they believe the neck is going to get bent out of shape just from leaving the strings off or leaving them on which is very unlikely, barring extreme climate changes and neglect.

Man I never know when your telling the truth bad info is bad info.

Based on my experiences I can agree that what he is saying is truthful.

That would have to be a hell of a lot of back bow for the frets to start working their way out. I would only expect to see something like that in a defective neck, a neck that is stored somewhere with extreme environmental fluctuations or in the cheapest of cheap guitars.

Even then it's not dangerous. The strings just pull the neck back to where it was before. The truss rod isn't going to continue bending or twisting the neck after you remove the strings.

Once you remove the string tension, that's it. The truss rod is where it is and it can't apply any more force than it already is applying.

Many people seem to think that guitar necks are made of wet noodles. They are not. They can be stored long term or short term, with or without strings or with the truss rod loosened or not loosened. Just don't store them in a bath tub or a sauna.

It's no more dangerous than leaving the strings on. If the neck could be damaged from being without tension, then strings on the guitar would be just as bad for it if not worse.

I have one of those. Mine is a red HSS Super Strat with a pointy headstock.

Is this guitar used? The nasty crap on the underside of the strings is something I have only seen on guitars with old strings.