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Idunno

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Posts posted by Idunno


  1. Reading music is certainly a musician's duty to learn. Both of my sons sight read (piano, guitar and violin) and my youngest has perfect pitch. I've yet to fail him tuning his guitar by ear alone. He tunes it, I check it with a tuner, and it's spot on. We keep the house musical. My own sight reading isn't too shabby but after >>>>>>>>> years with a guitar in my hands I don't need to read a melody to know how to play it. But, I'm on the back slide of my musical journey and you're beginning so get with the pros and let them accelerate your skills. You'll only be better for it. And, thanks for the compliment on my pipes.

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  2. Everything will go under lockdown until the hysteria has passed. Don't worry about it. You, being asthmatic, need to heed the warnings so don't get impatient.

    The so-called "belting out" simply means letting go of your inhibitions (fears) and learning where your limitations are. If you don't find them then you can't develop past them. If your asthma is a factor then you will need to work within its bounds, and testing beyond them. You have a nice voice so sing.


  3. Not bad at all, Misha. I think I hear all the right pitches where they need to be and the inflections are very listenable. I do hear some holding back. Don't do that. Get it out of your diaphragm. That's why we sing. We release what's down there needing to come out. Holding back is usually because we fear losing control if we just belt it out. I'm not speaking about volume. I speaking about power over the notes and for that to become second nature you have to stop constricting your capacity for vocalizing. Nice job and keep singing.


  4. The list is decidedly off-kilter to my eye and experience. Suggesting a Seagull S6 is a good beginner guitar tells me the rater is not a player with the experience necessary to take into account the physics of the guitar itself in the context of a new player, such as neck heft, and the S6 neck is rather hefty for a beginner. The numerical rating scores are, therefore, simple optics for simple minds but otherwise useless.

    A standard rule of thumb for suggesting a guitar to an entry-level person is to get out to the stores and get personal with them. Your hand has to place that F chord, not mine. You have to quickly and fluidly shift from a D-maj to a Bm to an A-maj in three strums (one per chord) and the guitar that best suits that is the one you need to consider buying.

    Sound is secondary to the mechanics of developing skills and the best guitar for developing skills is the one you need to buy.


  5. 12 hours ago, Phil O'Keefe said:

    What about them bothers you?

     

    See garthman's post. My hands are on the large size of huge and I have zero gap-factor with the narrower nuts, meaning I'm going to mute adjacent strings and no technique is going to change that set of physics. I can effectively play two adjacent strings on a nut of 1-5/8 inch with one fingertip. That works until the notes on those two strings don't share the same fret. I wish I could play smaller necks. Even on a 1-3/4 width I have to capo 2 frets for the extra real estate if I'm going to be working up-tempo. I tune a full step down for that. So, classical guitar is my go-to until someone comes along and makes an affordable 1-7/8" -  2.00" width player. That said, I don't think I'm going to be presented with one any time soon unless I scare up my own magic.

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  6. One of the characteristics of the cedar and mahogany soundboards are their susceptibility to even the slightest increases in relative humidity. If you can manage 45% they sound very nice (build-dependent) but when they start to see a rise towards 50% they begin to dampen the sound significantly. It's the primary reason I divested myself of the cedar topped Breedlove concert I had. It was fussy, I'm fussier and I didn't need the competition.


  7. If I thought of playing guitar as an exercise in copying other players I'd probably not enjoy it as much. I was playing Classical Gas on a Yamaha FG230 in late 74, having woodshed it for a year, and 6 months later put the guitar down for almost 30 years. Tommy is a couple months older than me. I sometimes wondered if I'd be anywhere near his level had I stayed as disciplined over the years as I was that first year. Then I realized probably not because I'd lost interest in listening to published music just before I quit playing to focus on writing. Tommy did the opposite. He doubled-down on his study of other players as icons to emulate where I drifted off to study just the guitar in a direction of my own. Then, life occurred and it was not defined by the acoustic guitar as Tommy's was.


  8. Anyone here peruse their site just for grins? I went on it the other day to get something and have to say the place does inspire the building bug. If I didn't know better I might be tempted to assemble the stuff for it, or make my own just based on the optics.


  9. 19 hours ago, redEL34 said:

    Aren’t guitar strings like new tubes for the most part? Like very few companies producing for multiple brands? Pink Slinky’s here most of the time. But like most things, I have a stash of strings here as if they cure Coronavirus, so I have several brands of electric, acoustic and bass strings. Not much difference between brands IMO. Pink Slinky’s are just cheap. 

    Yes. Mapes extrudes most of the music wire in use for the various brands. Some claim to extrude their own but it's usually from bulk wire produced by Mapes (the Steinway piano company's preferred string maker).

    https://www.mapeswire.com/mapes-music-wire-types/

    Their sets -

    https://www.mapesstrings.com/product/electric-guitar-strings/

    I buy straight from them for my acoustic (don't own an electric).

     

     

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  10. If I was to start today knowing what I know now, it would be to find the easiest playing guitar I could find. I might not be able to play but I do know that I can learn a few chord shapes and compare how hard they are to place/hold on various different guitar shapes and sizes. Solely engaging the head to sort things out, without involving the hands, is to say that the physiology of playing isn't considered at the outset. Forget about tone. A noob has to earn that part of the reward of learning to play so it can come later. A fine sounding guitar that I can't play isn't motivating. It's the veritable carrot dangling just beyond the horse's mouth and frustrating at best. If I can't play it, it isn't going to sound good. I'd get something that I can quickly adapt to that doesn't require psyching myself up to play (like a Yamaha FG230 12-string to learn Classical Gas on - ask me how I know).

    Once the guitar is sorted out the songs, like cats mentions above, should come next. They should be simple, basic melodies that get the hands fluid with chord changes. Three to four chord songs with a slower meter will feed the muse and stoke the self-motivation to try more difficult things. The less work on the fretting hand means the player can focus on the picking hand in real time.

    I've read >>>>> forum stories from players who use a plectrum exclusively and regret not having started out finger picking. Using an easy to play guitar and keeping to basic major/minor chord shapes in basic songs is the perfect scenario for learning to finger pick from the outset.

    My idea of an easy fretting guitar is a nylon string cross-over that has steel string dimensions. They're not the cheapest guitars on the wall but they will pay off faster than any steel string counterpart in terms of progress made. I bought one for my son to learn on. I won't say that it alone is the lynch pin for learning but there are certainly harder playing guitars out there and all of them have steel strings on them.


  11. Still on the look-out for a 12 fret guitar but most of them are the extended upper bout "false" 12 fret types where the overall length is the same as a 14 fret guitar. I'm looking for the type where the bridge is displaced back to the center of the lower bout and the neck is correspondingly shorter. I saw one that dates back to the early 1900's (Lyle) and the seller is asking $3800.00 for it. Some people's kids...


  12. Fact is, Japanese do not accent syllables after the first. Multi syllable words are pronounced without cadence, inflection or character. They speak with zero dynamics. Western languages are sing-songy by contrast. So, tok'-ah-min-eh is how it would be pronounced, with the final syllable almost like a ghost note. But, because they speak so quickly, the untrained ear probably would not discern the name when spoken in context. If pronounced alone aural recognition might have a chance. A little first-hand experience. 

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  13. Yep. Crawl, walk run, the sequence is fixed. Only the distance and baggage changes.

    Generalizing aside, what are you wanting to do with the guitar? Do you know yet? It might seem like another dumb question to match your own, but it's important. One can get really wordy here citing every conceivable stumble and trap we all negotiated going in, and still experience, but there's no sense going there just yet until we get to know what you want from playing a guitar.


  14. Well, there you go; hawking the various synth products - instead of instruments - and then feel stripped naked by the digital boyz when they take their toyz one-up on you. Can't have it both ways. The human mind is being supplanted by algorithms of itself by people who have chosen to cast off the raw experience of being human. Technology did that. Real musicianship is over.


  15. I use the Planet Waves NS and the Shubb capos. I keep a Shubb half capo pretty busy these days as well. I keep the NS capo on the 2nd fret of my steel string, full time, because I tune that one down a full step to take advantage of the extra real estate 2 frets up. Big fingertips, I need it despite a 1-3/4 nut width. I use a Shubb straight capo on the classical. My son bought one of those spring-loaded clamp types, hated it and stole one of my Shubbs so I'm down one. I bought the G7 but it felt weak. I gave it away years ago to JT, IIRC.

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