Members JohnLucente Posted September 25, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 25, 2010 god i was kinda hell bent on no filler just a lil stain and maybe somr oil or something. but damn i did more googling and forum surfing, aand i think im gunna use some grain filler then stain it, dunno what i'm going to use on top of that, in your opinion should i/do i have to seal that with something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted September 28, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 28, 2010 got some more work done sanded the edges of the body to almost how i want it Uploaded with ImageShack.us and i received the fret board/nut today so i began marking everything out on the neck. also i sanded the head flush, the grain is looking pretty cool. the 4x4 board i used for the neck was from the very center of the tree so the grain is really neat. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members linusâ„¢ Posted September 28, 2010 Members Share Posted September 28, 2010 So how did you figure out the fingerboard taper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted September 28, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 28, 2010 i think i'm gunna go 44mm at the head, i've read that to be somewhat standard? and taper that out to 50mm at the 12th fret? i'm not to sure what the width should be at the 12th fret what are some standard width? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members linusâ„¢ Posted September 28, 2010 Members Share Posted September 28, 2010 i think i'm gunna go 44mm at the head, i've read that to be somewhat standard? and taper that out to 50mm at the 12th fret? i'm not to sure what the width should be at the 12th fret what are some standard width? what is the string spread of your bridge? that should help you sort that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted September 28, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 28, 2010 ok i got a bit of an issue. i got a 24 3/4 fretboard from stewmac. half that distance in mm is 314.325, but when i measure from the first fret to the 12 fret im only getting 311.5mm. Is that a big deal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted September 28, 2010 Author Members Share Posted September 28, 2010 i worked out my fretboard dimensions. Uploaded with ImageShack.us whata yea think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 3, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 3, 2010 cut out the neck today, got acouple more pics, gunna use the rasp on the neck tomorrow, get the rough shape carved out. oh and check out the grain on the neck, gunna look real sick! Uploaded with ImageShack.us lil experiment with stain Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 4, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 4, 2010 Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us next up: going to cut the tenon out of the heel, actually i think its technically called a lap-joint not a tenon-mortise joint. Then finish up sanding the neck and start planning how i'm going to route the body to take the neck. ...and i've been thinking about what todo with the body... something along the lines of ---> http://www.prsguitars.com/mira/index.php# http://www.prsguitars.com/mirax/index.php http://www.birdlandmusic.net/images/products/d_15003.jpg http://www.prsguitars.com/custom/index.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members linusâ„¢ Posted October 4, 2010 Members Share Posted October 4, 2010 what kind of stain was that?was it just a single coat?i really dug that black/brown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 4, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 4, 2010 ahaha, the black stain was actually black shoe polish, i was trying out a bunch of different oils and lacquers and stuff one night and saw the shoe polish... it looks sick tho, i'm hopping some kind of stain can deliver that look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 4, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 4, 2010 Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 12, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 12, 2010 alright fellers, lil updategot the bridge and new fret board in today, (i screwed up when cutting the last fretb)soo sometime this week i'm going to be fitting the neck, oh and i changed my mind goin with pine apple slim's advice and gunna have a bolt on neck design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 16, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2010 routed the truss rod channel epoxy'd the rod in and glued in a few pieces of mahogany on the ends. also cut out the fret board goin out tonight so ima hafta glue it all in tomorrow. I still haven't fully decided on the neck joint, if you have an opinion lemme know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Pine Apple Slim Posted October 16, 2010 Members Share Posted October 16, 2010 oh and i changed my mind goin with pine apple slim's advice and gunna have a bolt on neck design. That just seems a lot eaiser to me.Be aware that that if you use a tuneomatic type bridge, you'll have to cut the neck pocket at an angle to get the strings up high enough, or use a shim. I belive I read somewhere its 10 deg, but not positive about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 16, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 16, 2010 yea thats wat im really leaning towards. lemme ask you, can i cut the neck pocket flat and cut the heel of the neck at an angle? i feel like that way would be easiest to doalso i was wonder that cause im using a tom bridge and cause i gotta have that 10 degree angle, is it possible to use a bolt on? like i've never seen a guitar like a less paul or anything with a tom have a bolt on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Pine Apple Slim Posted October 17, 2010 Members Share Posted October 17, 2010 yea thats wat im really leaning towards. lemme ask you, can i cut the neck pocket flat and cut the heel of the neck at an angle? i feel like that way would be easiest to doalso i was wonder that cause im using a tom bridge and cause i gotta have that 10 degree angle, is it possible to use a bolt on? like i've never seen a guitar like a less paul or anything with a tom have a bolt on Im certainly no expert. Not even sure about the 10 deg deal.But Im pretty sure a TOM does sit up higher than a Fender type bridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ajcoholic Posted October 17, 2010 Members Share Posted October 17, 2010 So how did you figure out the fingerboard taper? OK, let me add a few things... the taper of the finger board is determined by a few things: your nut width, your bridge string spread and of course your scale length. Draw out your bridge and nut the correct distance apart on a piece of paper and then you can draw in the outer strings. Add what you want to the outer edge of the board (thats personal preference, too little and you slide off the board easily too much and it will feel like {censored}) Again - remember the angles are ALL determined by the string path... from the nut slots to the bridge! And as for the neck angle, go back and read my thread. I cover it there IIRC. And yes, a lot of import LP style guitars came with bolt on necks. And no one says you cant make what you want. But, the neck angle is always determined by these things: how high your bridge sits off the face of the bodyhow high your fretboard sits off the edge of the body The higher your bridge sits, the more back angle you need.The higher your fretboard sits, the less angle you need. Its a compromise... generally on a LP you need a small amount of back angle using a standard TOM and the FB being maybe 316 to 1/4" proud of the face of the body. AJC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 18, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 18, 2010 roughed in the heel pocket still gotta bring it down a lilbit and set the angle right. gunna wait till next week for that, that way i have all week to think about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted October 21, 2010 Author Members Share Posted October 21, 2010 got a lil further today i'm pretty happy with how its going so far, its kind of evolving as i go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JohnLucente Posted November 29, 2010 Author Members Share Posted November 29, 2010 OK, let me add a few things... the taper of the finger board is determined by a few things: your nut width, your bridge string spread and of course your scale length. Draw out your bridge and nut the correct distance apart on a piece of paper and then you can draw in the outer strings. Add what you want to the outer edge of the board (thats personal preference, too little and you slide off the board easily too much and it will feel like {censored}) Again - remember the angles are ALL determined by the string path... from the nut slots to the bridge! And as for the neck angle, go back and read my thread. I cover it there IIRC. And yes, a lot of import LP style guitars came with bolt on necks. And no one says you cant make what you want. But, the neck angle is always determined by these things: how high your bridge sits off the face of the body how high your fretboard sits off the edge of the body The higher your bridge sits, the more back angle you need. The higher your fretboard sits, the less angle you need. Its a compromise... generally on a LP you need a small amount of back angle using a standard TOM and the FB being maybe 316 to 1/4" proud of the face of the body. AJC i like that "FB being maybe 316 to 1/4" ""proud"" of the face" so far i've just roughly set the neck in the neck pocket, the angle prolly isnt right yet, but today i finished installing the hardware so i'm going to put a couple strings on and start setting it correctly, i feel like its going to be very tedious.. (winding a few strings, taking them off, unbolting the neck, sanding a bit, checking it again, and over and over) anyways that'll be another day. about the fb height... it's probably going to sit just barely off the face of the body, maybe just the width of the fretboard itself, and i'm going to carve the body to the shape of the fb angle afterwards. even though i think im going about this all backwards from what ive seen from other build threads, ussually this is all worked out b4 hardware, BUT, im confident its all gunna work out. here she is after the hardware... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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