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arbiter flats


john clarity

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i'm considering building myself a set of these....

 

 

http://www.arbitergroup.com/flats/

 

 

i have loads of old head lying around, and i reckon what i would need to build it would be hoops, something to bolt the hoops to (and put the the heads between) and then clamps to hold them in place off the stands, as in the picture. anyone have any recommendations as regards this, ideas where to buy hoops etc?

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Ok, last night I went an picked up a drum kit for $80. 22, 16, 13, 12 w/HH stand and base pedal. It's a piece of crap, but it will work. I plan to take all the hardware and the wrap off. Then I'll cut the shells down to about 3" and put all the hardware back on (making new holes for the mounting hardware on the new short shells). I plan to put mesh heads on it and use plastic cymbals as a practice kit in my apartment.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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right, here's how we stand...

 

 

the idea at present is to get 10'',12'' and 16'' heads and hoops for each. the two smaller ones will be floating tom and floor tom respectively with the 16'' becoming the bass drum. the two possible ideas i have at present are:

 

1. using tension rods with the hoops in the standard way, with those type of clamps that are on bass drums to secure the bearing edge and tighten it into the head.

 

2. going completely old-school and using twine looped through the tension rod holes in the the hoop, criss-crossing them behind the bearing edge piece and tightening the twine to tighten the head and securing with a kind of pulley, much like an absailing rope and latch works. the problem i see with this is that it might be hard to get enough tension into it, plus that i recently saw a program on lambeg drums and tuning by this method could be extremely difficult, though i'm not too worried about that.

 

the main problem is still getting something for the bearing edges. i don't want to have any shell whatsoever, as a i want to fit them all into one standard cymbal bag- the securing methods mentioned above should function if i can figure this out. the latest idea i have was paint tins, with the tops (which have "bearing edges" of sorts) cut down to half an inch or less. the problem would be getting ones of correct size (esp. 16'') and whether they would be strong enough for the job.

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Yeah, I've been wondering since you first posted this about what you'd be putting under the heads. Therein lies the biggest problem: you need a bearing edge, and a way to connect the rim and tensioning system to it.

 

Here are some random ideas:

 

In either case, you still need to figure out a way to tension the heads. Personally, the rope tensioning idea sounds like a mess waiting to happen. Here's another thought: take either the metal or wood "bearnig edges" and mount them to a flat piece of plywood (cut bigger than the rim and with a hole in the middle). Then drill holes in the wood aligned with the holes in the rims and put nuts and washers underneath the plywood....so you'd have drums with no lugs.

 

Bottom line, when all is said and done, it sounds like a ton of work for what may or may not be a workable final product. If it were me, I'd cruise ebay until somebody put a flats kit up for auction and just buy something that'll work right out of the box.

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aw, and spoil all my fun? i am a soon-to-graduate but decidedly non-practicing mechanical engineer after all... ;) i have a little experience in both, but i'm not skilled as such- i'd imagine i could work with the plywood idea. a drum with no lugs would be ideal, and as i say i'll never be gigging with this so the sound quality doesn't overly bother me. i'm off to the DIY store tomorrow to see what ideas hit me, as opposed to planks of wood, naturally...

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