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Soldering Help - Dumb question inside


mlwarriner

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OK. So I'm finally getting around to wiring up my P/Piezo bass. SX P-bass, Reverend P pickup, Piezo bridge, Cafe Walter Piezo buffer.

 

Got the magnetic p'up wired fine, no problems.

 

Went to wire up the Piezo bridge to the Cafe Walter buffer and realized...

 

 

 

I have no clue how to solder to a board. None whatsoever. I know where the wires go, but before I could get the socket on the board hot enough, I was melting insulation from wires. :(

 

HELP!

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You stick the wire through the board and then flip it over...

 

Touch the soldering iron to the metal ring on the board where the wire comes through it...

 

Heat it up a little and touch the solder to it...

 

Done!

 

Once you're all finished with the soldering, you can go back and snip all of the excess wires so they are nice and neat.

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+1...

 

Thin-gauge solder, tinning, warm the parts simultaneously.

 

A hotter iron helps, too. The cooler (read: cheaper) irons will warm further up the wire before the solder melts (and will burn a PC board). I use a 40 watt variable iron, but usually have it dimed at 40 watts.

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OK. So I'm finally getting around to wiring up my P/Piezo bass. SX P-bass, Reverend P pickup, Piezo bridge, Cafe Walter Piezo buffer.


Got the magnetic p'up wired fine, no problems.


Went to wire up the Piezo bridge to the Cafe Walter buffer and realized...




I have no clue how to solder to a board. None whatsoever. I know where the wires go, but before I could get the socket on the board hot enough, I was melting insulation from wires.
:(

HELP!

 

 

OK, strip back a bit more wire so that the remaining insulation isn't melted, trim to desired length, then tin the ends - this consists of melting a little solder into the bare wire... Your socket probably already is tinned - if not, do so... Here's how you keep from melting the insulation on the wire: have the wire ready to be inserted in the socket, then put the heat to the socket - when you see it's tinning solder starting to flow, insert the wire, then keep the heat on long enough for the solder on the wire to flow into the solder on the socket - should only take a second or 2 - then remove the heat, but hold the connection still until the solder sets up... A good solder joint is shiny - if it's really dull, it's *probably* a cold solder joint - that's no good...

 

 

- georgestrings

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You stick the wire through the board and then flip it over...


Touch the soldering iron to the metal ring on the board where the wire comes through it...


Heat it up a little and touch the solder to it...


Done!


Once you're all finished with the soldering, you can go back and snip all of the excess wires so they are nice and neat.

 

 

 

Yup - also, try not to keep the heat to the PCB(printed circuitboard) any longer than you have to - otherwise, you can cause the "ring" to lift off the board... If things just aren't working, stop - let things cool off a bit - then try again...

 

 

 

- georgestrings

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you NEED a really clean and shiny tip on your iron ,

 

 

 

Agreed - most pro soldering stations have a sponge to be wetted for keeping the tip clean... For smaller applications, I've had good luck with a clean napkin or paper towel, that's very lightly wetted(very damp)...

 

 

 

- georgestrings

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+1...


Thin-gauge solder, tinning, warm the parts simultaneously.


A hotter iron helps, too. The cooler (read: cheaper) irons will warm further up the wire before the solder melts (and will burn a PC board). I use a 40 watt variable iron, but usually have it dimed at 40 watts.

 

 

 

 

I agree with this line of thinking - to me, a hotter iron allows me to get "in and out" more quickly - which results in less transfer of heat past the work point... Although *some* don't agree with it, if my tip can fit in to get the work done without melting anything else, I use a 120watt solder gun the most - otherwise, I use an iron that's rated around 30 watts...

 

 

 

- georgestrings

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Are you taking the piss?

 

 

Quite serious, actually... I drank an entire pot of coffee in the last hour :D

 

 

No, really.

 

 

It was a good link, lots of good info. It's very convenient that most of it reinforces what has already been mentioned here... apparently we have some knowledgeable solder-ers here.

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part 2 - does something look wrong with the attached wiring diagram? my mind says there should be something leading from the tone pot back into the system...


or am i crazy?

 

 

Tone is a "bleed to ground" circuit... the pot shell sheds signal to ground, therefore the shell must be grounded.

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part 2 - does something look wrong with the attached wiring diagram? my mind says there should be something leading from the tone pot back into the system...


or am i crazy?

 

 

Don't use that as a guide for your project. Use a jazz bass example.

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Don't use that as a guide for your project. Use a jazz bass example.

 

was using that for just the magnetic pup, and was going to install the buffer as instructed by the cafe walter site.

 

i s'pose i can back up and use the jazz example instead...

 

:facepalm:

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