Members guitarchaz Posted February 20, 2008 Members Share Posted February 20, 2008 ...with a skunk stripe, does it make the most sense to rout out the stripe as opposed to separating the fingerboard ? Doesn't fender put the truss rod in these type of necks from the back ? There are nice little dot inlays along the edge sit right between the neck and the fingerboard, Seems these would become a real mess if I separated it, or so it appears. Filler wood for the stripe is easy enough to find, and I don't mind having to refinish the back of the neck and dress it up when I'm done. Anyone ever done this ? For those who haven't read other posts, it's an oddball scale 24 3/4 Bolt on from a Toronado that has a broken truss rod. No readily available after market replacement (Although I'm chasing a squire that might work for it), and I want to give it a shot any way even if I do get a replacement neck somewhere. Might as well experiment. This one is no good to me at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ew_ Posted February 20, 2008 Members Share Posted February 20, 2008 Yep, you'd take out the skunk stripe. The ones with a skunk stripe are one piece necks; the fingerboard is part of the neck instead of being laminated on. ew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarchaz Posted February 21, 2008 Author Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 Yep, you'd take out the skunk stripe. The ones with a skunk stripe are one piece necks; the fingerboard is part of the neck instead of being laminated on.ew This one has a skunk stripe, but also has a rosewood fingerboard. It's not a one piece maple neck. Still think stripe removal is the way to go ? I assume that there is wood built up in the curved part of the rod between the fingerboard and the fretboard,and I'm hoping when I chisel the stipe out, I'm looking right at the rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hondro Posted February 21, 2008 Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 Warmoth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted February 21, 2008 Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 The dot inlays are plastic and will melt. A sidemarker rod is about $1. Removing the fretboard takes about 30 minutes to an hour at the most with a steam iron. Routing or chiseling out the skunk stripe seems to me the be the hard way to go to say the least. I did a rod replacement on a Jagmaster last year. It also had the side markers mounted between the board and neck. After the board was reglued I simply used a 3/32 drill bit in my fingertips to clear the holes, then a drop of CA glue in the hole and new side marker. Steamng the board off and reinstalling will probably mean a fret level is needed though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarchaz Posted February 21, 2008 Author Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 The dot inlays are plastic and will melt. A sidemarker rod is about $1. Removing the fretboard takes about 30 minutes to an hour at the most with a steam iron. Routing or chiseling out the skunk stripe seems to me the be the hard way to go to say the least. I did a rod replacement on a Jagmaster last year. It also had the side markers mounted between the board and neck. After the board was reglued I simply used a 3/32 drill bit in my fingertips to clear the holes, then a drop of CA glue in the hole and new side marker. Steamng the board off and reinstalling will probably mean a fret level is needed though. Good advice, and I'm very comfy with fret levels. Have the appropriate tools radiused blocks files, etc. Any special advice ? Just use a regular household iron and a knife ? Anything special for the knife ? Just crank the iron up to max with steam and and lay it on there? Any other advice ? Thanks very much !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarchaz Posted February 21, 2008 Author Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 Warmoth Oh that it were that simple. Checked with them they don't make one to fit. Seems no one does but fender. oddball scale. 24 3/4 bolt on, with strat headstock, and no fret overhang at the body. Thanks anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted February 21, 2008 Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 The first time I removed a board was with the help of this link: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm My only additions to his instructions are: 1. Do not use a hammer as he suggests you might do2. when you get the board off clamp it to a flat piece of wood. Use wax paper between the fretboard and lumber (very important) This link is his tutorial on reinstalling the board:http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/attach.htm Use plenty of clamps - I used 7-8 on mine. The truss rod I used was from Luthiers Mercantile. www. lmii.com . Part # TRED. It was the only after-market rod I found that fit the measurements of the cavity already in the neck. They carry the dot stick as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nevermind Posted February 21, 2008 Members Share Posted February 21, 2008 BTW, if it were me I would remove the board before ordering anything. It wouldn't take long to go over the cost of that cyclone if you end up breaking the FB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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