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Your empirical 6 screw Strat vibrato setup


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I loosen the middle four screws so that they are just above contact with the bridge, and tighten the end screws just to the point of contact. I adjust the trem springs so that the bridge is a about 1/4 inch off of the body which seems to be the floating point.

 

I also use the graphite powder and vaseline concoction on the string tree, nut and saddles.

 

I don't do dive bombs, but with moderate use I have no tuning problems at all.

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I loosen the middle four screws so that they are just above contact with the bridge, and tighten the end screws just to the point of contact. I adjust the trem springs so that the bridge is a about 1/4 inch off of the body which seems to be the floating point.

 

 

1/4"? Is that to the underside of the top plate or the topside? That's pretty high

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I loosen the middle four screws so that they are just above contact with the bridge, and tighten the end screws just to the point of contact. I adjust the trem springs so that the bridge is a about 1/4 inch off of the body which seems to be the floating point.


I also use the graphite powder and vaseline concoction on the string tree, nut and saddles.


I don't do dive bombs, but with moderate use I have no tuning problems at all.

 

 

Same here, except I set my bridge to pull up a full semitone on the G string.

 

I use straight vaseline in the nut slots. I have no tuning issues whatsoever.

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I set mine up as per Fender spacs. If it goes out a quick tug in the proper direction usually sets it right. I also use graphite grease.

 

"TREMOLO

 

 

 

First, remove the tremolo back cover. Check your tuning. For a vintage-style tremolo bridge, a great way to enhance its performance is to pull the bridge back flush with the body using the tremolo arm. Then loosen all six screws located at the front edge of the bridge plate, raising them so that they all measure approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) above the top of the bridge plate. Then tighten the two outside screws back down until they're flush with the top of the bridge plate. The bridge will now pivot on the outside screws, leaving the four inside screws in place for bridge stability. For a two-pivot model such as the American Series bridge, use your tremolo arm to pull the bridge back flush with the body and adjust the two pivot screws to the point where the tremolo plate sits entirely flush at the body (not lifted at the front or back of the plate).

 

Allowing the bridge to float freely (no tension on the tremolo arm) using the claw screws in the tremolo cavity, adjust the bridge to your desired angle

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1/4"? Is that to the underside of the top plate or the topside? That's pretty high

 

 

I just measured and you're right, 1/4 would be to high. It's half that..3 mm or about an eighth of an inch. I always eyeball it in and never actually measured the height. I measure from the bottom of the plate. Sorry for the confusion....

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Well put the buggers back in then:poke:

 

 

Like I said -- dem's long gone. The tech who took 'em out claimed it would improve tuning stability after wiggleage, and he was right. In fact, he did this so long ago that effectively he invented the 2-point trem, and I had one before Fender started offering them.

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