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  • Arcade Button Killswitch..

    I figured this would be a better place to post this question than in the General Electric Guitar forum, but if not, feel free to move/edit this

    Hey guys, first post here and I need some technical advice. I used to have an old Epiphone Flying V that I used to try out some different modding bits n' pieces. It was so old and cheap that it was perfect to tinker about with without having to worry about breaking it up badly. I had a killswitch in it with the same stock-standard red button everyone uses.

    Now I have a shiny new Jackson that I kinda wanna put a Killswitch in, but at the same time, I don't want to use that awful looking red button again. Problem being, there's not many variants out there to be found, so I came up with a bit of a weird idea that would work out perfectly if I could manage it. I just dunno how to go about it.

    I was thinking about old Arcade machines. The big round buttons come in all colours, like black, that would look fairly inconspicuous on the face of a tobacco sunburst Jackson. As well as being nice and big and having that nice loose feeling that arcade buttons had, making it easy to do the 3 and 4 finger rolls over it. :L I just don't know what kind of button the arcade machines used. I'm guessing they're some sort of digital button as apposed to the momentary switch that I need for a killswitch.

    So, question is, does anybody know what kind of buttons they are and does anybody know how I'd go about changing it into the type of switch I need?

    Thanks guys.
    <div class="signaturecontainer"><div align="center"><b>[AK58] Lock n' Level</b></div></div>

  • #2
    I just did an ebay search for "arcade button", and found a ton of results. That's as good a place as any to start. There appear to be a few different varieties: HAPP, JAMMA, MULTICADE, MAME, etc.

    Let us know if you get one of these installed!

    Comment


    • #3
      I never even though of that haha, thanks man. But I know nothing about electronics. Do you know which one out of those variants is the right one for a killswitch? From what I've seen from googling, HAPP seems to be the right one. Can anyone confirm that?

      Only problem from what I can see in the pics is the size of the switch. Looks like I might need to drill a pretty big fkn hole to get that thing in there, or widen my tone pot quite a bit. I just took my tone pot out of the Epiphone because I never used it.

      The thoughts of a black arcade button with a blue LED underneath is seriously sounding awesome to me though hahah
      <div class="signaturecontainer"><div align="center"><b>[AK58] Lock n' Level</b></div></div>

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      • #4
        http://store.djtechtools.com/products/arcade-buttons?utm_source=google-product-search

        Hey, it's a momentary switch too! There ya go, you're all set!
        <div class="signaturecontainer">My Gear:<br />
        <font face="Verdana"><br />
        <br />
        2007 Carvin Bolt-T (NOW with Dimarzio Air Zone/Cruiser set) <br />
        2002 Les Paul Classic (with Dimarzio PAF Classics)<br />
        2003 MIA Standard Strat (with GFS Boston Blues)<br />
        <br />
        1990 Randall Pro Tube 1000<br />
        1996 Fender Hot Rod Deluxe<br />
        <br />
        <br />
        Pedalboard:<br />
        Korg Pitchblack, Barber Tone Press, Bearfoot HBOD, Blackout Effectors Musket Fuzz, Bearfoot Model H, Timmy, Mooer Eleclady, Mooer Ensemble King, TC Electronics Flashback X4, TC Electronics Arena Reverb</font></div>

        Comment


        • #5
          fun fun fun ^_^

          Comment


          • #6
            Hahaha that's brilliant, Hurtzher. Thank you Now I just need to find somewhere to rout my tone pot a bit bigger. Ireland SUCKS for places to do hardware work on guitars. :{

            I bought it haha
            <div class="signaturecontainer"><div align="center"><b>[AK58] Lock n' Level</b></div></div>

            Comment


            • #7
              Bumping this with an update.



              I bought it from the site Hurtzher suggested and it's perfect. I'm gonna bring it to the local hardware guy and see if he'll route the tone pot bigger for me or maybe even an entirely new hole for it. It's so perfect man. It's just a loose as I wanted it to be. I thought it was gonna be too long to fit, but it's short enough to go into the cavity. I'm so pleased. I'll definitely be posting a video of it after it's done. I might do a little vlog tonight so I can do a pre/post type thing. Thanks for all the help guys.
              <div class="signaturecontainer"><div align="center"><b>[AK58] Lock n' Level</b></div></div>

              Comment


              • #8
                I have been thinking about putting one of those in my Schecter C1 Classic. Lemme know how it turns out!
                <div class="signaturecontainer">My Gear:<br />
                <font face="Verdana"><br />
                <br />
                2007 Carvin Bolt-T (NOW with Dimarzio Air Zone/Cruiser set) <br />
                2002 Les Paul Classic (with Dimarzio PAF Classics)<br />
                2003 MIA Standard Strat (with GFS Boston Blues)<br />
                <br />
                1990 Randall Pro Tube 1000<br />
                1996 Fender Hot Rod Deluxe<br />
                <br />
                <br />
                Pedalboard:<br />
                Korg Pitchblack, Barber Tone Press, Bearfoot HBOD, Blackout Effectors Musket Fuzz, Bearfoot Model H, Timmy, Mooer Eleclady, Mooer Ensemble King, TC Electronics Flashback X4, TC Electronics Arena Reverb</font></div>

                Comment


                • #9
                  Is it a momentary open or momentary closed switch? I put a killswitch in one of my guitars and I remember that was something to consider. I think you want momentary open so that the signal is running until the button is pushed.
                  <div class="signaturecontainer">up in this B.<br />
                  <br />
                  <div class="bbcode_container">
                  <div class="bbcode_quote">
                  <div class="quote_container">
                  <div class="bbcode_quote_container"></div>

                  <div class="bbcode_postedby">
                  <img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>CharvelFan, Stackabones, Mercer, jamesp, jelloman and Sad Navigator</strong>

                  </div>
                  <div class="message">Sutto is the man!, I look forward to Sutto's future work., Sutto. . . you're awesome, Sutto is correct., I think Sutto's right again, Sutto speaks the truth...I'mma do something crazy and agree with Sutto.</div>

                  </div>
                  </div>
                  </div> </div>

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                  • #10
                    This is precisely what Buckethead has on his sig model Les Paul....two of them actually...

                    <div class="signaturecontainer"><a href="http://www.greenlightpromise.com/" target="_blank">http://www.greenlightpromise.com/</a><br />
                    <a href="http://www.myspace.com/greenlightpromise" target="_blank">http://www.myspace.com/greenlightpromise</a></div>

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                    • #11
                      Oh **************** hahaha. I came up with something Buckethead came up with without even knowing

                      Sup guys, I'm back. Need some advice this time. I'm bumping this because it's the same dilemma. I really don't feel like spending
                      <div class="signaturecontainer"><div align="center"><b>[AK58] Lock n' Level</b></div></div>

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                      • #12
                        I use these in my strat. They wear out fairly quick though so I might move to something else. But, they're great for kill swtich. Uber fast with a click. It really only has enough thread to be used on a pickguard though.

                        N/O = normally open
                        N/C = normally closed

                        The switches I posted have both

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Check these out. This might very well be what I install in my guitar. Question has been sent to seller. Some of these folks have sent me samples...

                          Is it a momentary open or momentary closed switch? I put a killswitch in one of my guitars and I remember that was something to consider. I think you want momentary open so that the signal is running until the button is pushed.


                          You actually want normally closed. You open the connection when the button is pushed. Shoulda caught this earlier. Most arcade buttons I've seen are N/O.

                          I like these too because they're a little smaller. There's only one like them on ebay though.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            So I'm kinda paranoid that it's gonna be the wrong kinda switch when I put it in, and I have no way to check it. Do you guys know if an arcade button I'd buy from a DJ site would be N/O or N/C? Is there a simple way to check using the switch or anything? I'm probably making a mountain out of a mole-hill here, but I just wanna be sure before I go drilling through my Jackson for it
                            <div class="signaturecontainer"><div align="center"><b>[AK58] Lock n' Level</b></div></div>

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                            • #15
                              I postd a link to an ebay auction that had a N/C switch and where you would not need to drill the body (going from 3/8 to 10mm isn't much of a drilling project)

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