DIY Tubescreamer advice

[Shooley]

Hi,

I have decided to build a Tubescreamer clone to replace my failing TS7, I ordered the PCB and parts from Tayda electronics. Since I really like the option of switching modes from TS9 to Hot on the TS7 I want to recreate that in my build and that leads me to my question.

I found this schematic of the TS7 (linked) and my plan is to take a DPDT on-on toggle switch, use one side to change the capacitor and resistor C34 and R85 with R28 and C16 on the schematic. I'll use the other side of the DPDT to add a second resistor in series, so I add C43 in series to C31.

Does this seem correct?

I made a bad wiring diagram for the switch but I'm not sure if it's right.

Thanks

[WRGKMC]

Hi,

 

I'll use the other side of the DPDT to add a second resistor in series, so I add C43 in series to C31. Does this seem correct?

I made a bad wiring diagram for the switch but I'm not sure if it's right. Thanks

 

C43 and C31 are capacitors not resistors. You'd be connecting two capacitors in series - not two resistors.

 

You can find these tweaks all laid out for you on some mod sites.

 

 

I visited one that lets you swap between the TS808, TS9 and TS7 with only a few component changes. I'll see if I can find it for you.The only real difference in the TS-808 and TS-9 is in the output buffer circuit. These include two resistors in the output, R1 and R2. The 808 has the best tone in my opinion and the other two can be produced by swapping a few resistors. I don't think you even have to touch any caps unless you want a modded tone.

 

 

Heres a good site to explore the differences http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.htm

 

The TS9 used a momentary switch and transistors for latching and can easily be omitted.

 

This circuit groups all the areas. http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.gif

 

Personally I'd suggest you work around a TS808 and have the TS7 and TS9 as alternates.

 

TS7 R55 = 100 ohm and R58 = 10K

 

TS9 / TS9 DX / TS808 reissue: R15 = 100 ohm and R13 = 10k

 

 

[Shooley]

I meant to write capacitor there and not resistor, my bad.

thanks for the links, I'll check them out.

Personally what I liked best was the hot mode in the ts7 so I wanted to keep that as an optional mode and not full time, I've heard comparison between ts9 and ts7 in normal mode and sounds identical to me. I don't really experience with the 808.

[WRGKMC]

I've had all three over the years plus several generics.

 

The 808 has slightly higher mids (less lows then the others) and a creamy drive tone.

 

There are slight tonal differences between the others but to be honest, I can make up for those differences with simple amp tweaks. I can use any of them just as effectively as the next so it basically comes down to cost and reliability. Some of it comes from how much clean is mixed with the driven too. Component quality and tolerances can even play a role there.

 

 

I recently bought a Joyo 808 and you cant touch the reliability and tone for the $20 I spent on it. If anything it might have a little extra brightness range on the tone control over others I've used, but I like having the ability to dial up that edge when needed.

 

I couldn't build one for that price nor would I try. If I wanted I could easily mod the Joyo to give me a TS9 and 7 tones Theres probably enough space for a switch. I limit my builds to pedals I cant buy at a reasonable cost. I built an MKII and a Fuzzrite which came out very well. You cant touch the originals at a decent price and haven't any inexpensive clones even though the pedals components are super simple 2 and 3 gain stage fuzz pedals and very inexpensive builds.

[Shooley]

I ordered all the parts for about 25$ US so it's not bad, I'd feel bad buying a new TS9 and "butchering" it.This is mostly for fun, my TS7 doesn't turn on reliably anymore but it isn't a big deal as I only play at home anyway and I've built a Boss OD-1 clone with the original IC that I have been favoring recently.

[WRGKMC]

Ibanez pedals have a really cheap assed switch. Its a stainless steel metal dome that gets pushed down against an electrical contact. Anyone who knows electronics and knows these kinds of switches can tell you stainless against copper is a crappy combination. The disk can cut through the copper and as the copper oxidizes the stainless steel stops making an electrical contact.

 

The fix is super easy. You simply wire in a new momentary switch. may not look pretty but it will last 100 times longer then the original switch.

 

There is some guy on the net that sells new parts to repair the original switch. Some people do that on the TS 9's because they're value on an original has been going up. Simply re-boxing the thing with a new switch would be my option. A switch is only a couple of bucks and you'd be cookin with gas. Then you could just wire your project pedal as a TS 9 or 808 and have both pedals to use. (which you want to in fact. Running a pair in series can get some cool gained up tones.

 

You'd dial the first up with just a little gain to drive the second which has more drive. This will give you two drives, then the combination of both gets you some excellent lead tones. I do this all the time except I use the Tube screamer before other drive pedals like a Governor, Blues Breaker, Big Muff, etc. each pedal by itself isn't overly driven. I can get nice crunch chords from them. Its when I combine two of them where I get the sweet lead tones that sustain nicely. You just use the low gain before the higher gain. if you do it the other way around you wind up having unwanted noise and feedback.

[AMZ-FX]

Small Bear carries a replacement switch for the TS:

 

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/mountain-sw-101-0621/

 

regards, Jack