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Transforming an LPB into a treble booster? [and other things]


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I'm gonna order parts for my new project soon. It's going to be a clean boost and buffer in a small little enclosure. As an extra bonus, I'd like to have the option of either having a transparent clean boost or a treble booster. Is it possible to transform an LPB into a treble booster without too many changes? (so that I can have both switchable)

 

Also, do you think this (buffer+booster) would fit into an enclosure that is 4.78" x 2.61" x 1.4"? (http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=635)

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Okay thanks. Really simple which is good.

 

Now that I'm adding an LED and a buffer to the same circuit from the same 9v source, do I need to change any of the resistor values in the LPB circuit since it can no longer have the whole power source alone or will it be fine?

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I am probably going to start off with the LPB schematic found here:

lpb1.gif

 

How would I do capacitor switching without popping?

 

Then I'm probably going to do the buffer found here:

main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_it

 

That circuit is almost identical to the LPB one so it'll be simple. Will it be quite transparent do you think?

If you have schematics for other simple buffer I'd like to see them.

 

I will make a layout when I have decided on all the parts and so on.

 

Everything will be housed in a red enclosure from Smallbear. The buffer will be switchable with a toggle-switch, treble/normal boost with a toggle-switch and the boost will be switchable with a footswitch. Since this is my first pedal build I might try the RAT bypass since DPDT switches are cheaper and 3PDT bypass isn't as fun.

 

I've found some 2-colored LEDs at a local store and I'll probably use those. They are green and red. Since the enclosure will be red, I will use the red color to indicate that it's turned off and green to indicate that it's turned on. Or I'll use the RGB-leds they had and use blue for turned off, maybe that'll look better.

 

Sorry for wall of text, but there you have the plan.

 

*edit*

 

Oh yeah, and I'm thinking of doing this with stripboard. Good idea do you think? Planning will be more difficult but that'll just be fun and it will look a lot cleaner.

 

I will not use a battery since I'm not sure how much room I will have left. I run all my pedals (except Fuzz Face) from a 9v-supply so I will just install a DC jack on this one.

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Sounds like a plan. Although it may be cooler if you use the LED in way that shows what effects are on because im not sure why you would want to have the LED on when the effect is off. I guess it would be cool either way.

 

I built this buffer.

 

http://www.singlecoil.com/tb-strip/buffer.pdf

 

It uses and IC instead of a transistor, and you can read about more of the pros and cons about it on that page. You can even get a PCB and wiring directions from GGG if you look around the site, though its not really necessary if you can read the schematic.

 

Its also a plus that its unitiy gain.

 

About the poping, i'm not totally sure. Are you sure it would pop to begin with?

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How would I do capacitor switching without popping?


 

 

This is how I do it with just two caps on the input. Take 2 10n caps and solder them in series with the input. 10n x 10n / 10n + 10n = 5n so you end up with a 5n capacitance with the two caps in series. Now just take a single pole switch that will bypass the first cap for the normal full frequency setting. Switch off for the treble boost setting. You can throw in a 2.2m resistor to ground between those two caps for further protection against pops but I doubt you will need it.

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Syncrusher has the best idea for no pops while switching, but I don't have a big problem with just switching between two caps on the outside lugs of a DPDT. It's not overwhelmingly loud on my Rangemaster build. It's not like you're gonna reach down mid-shred and switch anyhow!

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Okay thanks a lot for your help. I'm gonna go with your schematic mth5044. I looked at a datasheet for the TL071. So the + on the schematic means IN+ on the TL071 which is pin 3? And the same goes for -?

 

Pin 7 for V+ makes sense since pin 7 is Vcc+ and 4 for ground uses the same logic.

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Did a quick schematic. Does this look correct to you? I didn't include switches or leds as those are fairly simple.

 

Do I need those 3 capacitors in the middle or can I merge them in some way while still keeping this true bypass (if wanted) and treble/transparent-switchable?

 

schematic1tf6.png

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