Simple repair

I'm trying to do a simple switch replacement in a Dunlop Crybaby Classic Wah pedal. The original switch has what looks like a circuit board soldered to the bottom and a ribbon cable that connects the board to the main wah board. When I ordered what was purported to be a "replacement switch for all Dunlop wah models", a standard spdt switch with 3 leads showed up, with no instructions on how to wire it. I'm not interested in modding the pedal, just simply replacing the original switch. Can anyone point me to a diagram, or give me some insight on how I can get this accomplished?

Thanks much.

I don't know your pedal, but since you're not getting any action I'll offer my thoughts. First off, I'd want to be sure that no EXACT replacement part was available. Is this one of the real vintage models or the newer "Classic"? With pcb I'd guess that it's not that old a pedal.

Second, need to be sure that the switch in the pedal is in fact SPDT. If so, you can probably make the new one work if it will bolt up in the pedal without having to mod the base. You'll probably have to desolder the old switch and add leads from the new one to the holes in the board. But, You've also got to mount the board somewhere,(assuming there are other components on that board) - no help with that without seeing inside the pedal.

There are no other components on said board. This can't be that old of a pedal, because it has the surface mount parts that everyone is talking about on the newer classic, so fairly recent, I'd say. The one possible clue I have is that there's 4 leads leading from the board under the switch to the main board. Does that mean it's DPDT, as my spdt replacement switch only has 3 contacts? I'll see about getting some photos.

If there are only 4 leads then it's not using both sides of a DPDT - that would take 6 leads - although sometimes a circuit designer will use a DPDT in parallel to switch the same function, just to have backup. The fourth lead may just be unused or might be some kind of ground - follow it back to the main board and see it it ties to anything. If there's nothing else on the switch board you could probably dump that board and wire direct to the main board. But, it may be easier to just wire the switch back to the little one. Your going to have to figure out if the 4th lead is actually doing anything. I would think you should be able to just look at the board and tell, but you may have to desolder the sw to be sure.

But it is

the 4 leads are:

1) input jack to switch.

2) switch to input circuit

3) output circuit to switch

4) switch to output jack.

The other 2 (outer) leads of the swich are connected to each other on that mini-PCB creating what your wah is, a TB situation (And yes, they do exist)

Therefore what you need is a DPDT footswich. (or take a 3pdt and add a LED)

OK then - sounds like darkphenom needs to get back to the parts supplier and explain the problem. dirk-hendrik, what is a TB situation?

True Bypass ?

can someone give me the link for the wah pedal mod section..when i search this is what comes up.

This may be a stupid remark... but the crybaby's I've messed with all had color coded wires, IE: solder purple to purple, blue to blue, etc...

If you could put up pictures, that would be helpful. I would recommend the true bypass circuit, I've done it and I definitely heard an improvement. Plus it's really not any more work than replacing the stock one, just requires a different switch and some extra wire.

But yeah, I'll see if I can track down some more info on the stock replacement you want to do. I don't remember the connection points for the switch off hand.

Not a stupid remark....just the wrong pedal. Your thinking the GCB-95.

Darkphenom, your Crybaby Classic IS true bypassed already. To simplify the wiring, they went with a relay cable to the PCB instead of individual wires going to the switch directly. I'm not 100% sure, but this switch SHOULD be the same as the switch that's currently in it. I can't see Carling wasting the money making switches with different lug spacing but hey, it is Dunlop...Carling 316-B-PP .

If that is the case, simply and CAREFULLY unsolder the broken switch from the PCB and fit the new switch right into the holes. Solder in place and your back in business. If you don't have any experience in solder work, take it to someone who does. You don't want to run a pedal over a 10 dollar part.