guitargo25

I just needed something for the time being, I'm very particular what I've been looking for in an HH (so no static via PC like my SSS did years ago, but I also like HH tone despite if there's a workaround or noiseless SSS coils), I recently returned both the revstar and then a Guild surfliner for 'the feel' I wasn't used to which is a strat body and palm muting seemed way better on a strat type bridge. 

I haven't been guitar shopping since returning those a few months ago but I just impulse bought one of these $60 free delivery strats off eBay and I almost feel guilty with how well it's made and everything I'm baffled how this is possible, I don't know much about guitars and yes it's brand new so that helps but it feels just like any strat in the store, I used to play just a $125 guitar center Squire strat , this is basically the same. 

The materials have got to cost at least $25 and that's being generous I would think materials are $60 min, then I know it's probably made in some place where $5 US dollars is like a whole month's pay but still delivery must have cost about $15 and that's being generous too I've sold over $250,000.00 gross profit on eBay over the years and even with my discount I don't think I could mail this for less than like $22, plus the eBay fees, plus the storage costs and everything else, this just seems like a race to the bottom for $4 profit or something I don't get it. 

I think for most beginner or even intermediate players who want a strat that this is just fine, and despite coil quality, I've read even cheap coils nowadays are much 'better' than top of the lines from vintage etc, and FWIW coils aren't even that expensive I thought liek synthesizers or something that coils are the sound source so there might be some really pricey ones but most great coils are only like $100 a set or something it's basically just copper wound over metal and maybe wax dipped.

It even came with a soft bag and 6 foot cable. All this for $4 profit?!

I have a D'Addario locking strap but it's so abrasive. It's like my toolbelt suspenders when I built decks and basements all day it'd cut into my neck basically so I had to sew socks to them. When I played guitar a lot in early 2000s I had a very soft strap that never seemed to bother me. I played shirtless a lot and also with the d'addario seems to stick to my back sort of but maybe a soft strap would too. 

I really like the locking strap despite I never dropped the guitar with the regular type but I do move the guitar around in sorta unconventional ways sometimes like holding it flat like a shelf off of my abdomen or something, so I like the security of a lock strap. 

An add-on padding I think would move around or move out of position annoyingly when I move the guitar in different positions. 

I'm thinking to maybe just cut the stiff d'addario strap from the locking ends and sew (with very strong but thin 100lb braided fishing line) a softer strap to the locking ends. 

Any better suggestions lol? thanks. 

I returned the surfliner today (like brand new they can just seal the box and sell it as new again so no loss for them.

It just didn't feel right. Then I tested a ~$600 strat in the store and yes it seems easier to palm when quickly switching between that and a Tune o matic les paul etc.

Another thing I like about hardtail is I can adjust the action for each string rather then the TOM you lower/raise each side but then one in the middle could be buzzing and would need to fiel down all 5 other saddles, this happened with the surfliner. And despite hardtail is sorta wiggly, a few times jamming with the surfliner TOM when it popped into my head to check sustain which is supposed to be better on a sturdy TOM, it didn't seem to sustain long and I think this mostly has to do with FX box set-up which I'm not good at yet. 

I might just get a noiseless SSS! I like the smaller strat body too. 

i have to admit I haven't lowered the action on either of these tune o matic guitars which should make palm mutes easier but I was thinking also these being 12" radius instead of 9.5" I was used to might also make palm muting a bit harder for how the palm curves along the more-curved 9.5" radius. FWIW for some reason maybe the action (which is not very low how I like, I'm going to lower it right now) I don't feel much difference between these 12" radius and 9.5" - the time I really felt the difference which might be the 12" radius for 'easier to scale' was a random les paul I tested in sam ash but could have been the action was set nice and low.  And now I'm realizing I'm maybe ok with a 9.5" if all other specs and design of guitar are to my preferences because placebo of how 9.5" is 'easier for chords' and I think shredding and solo etc is easier than chords regardless of radius so maybe i could use the help of the 9.5 being easier for chords more-so than making scales/solos easier with a 12" radius.  

I didn't take any offense to that post, I know I'm very picky, and they were straight to the point. 

Turns out penguin was right, the tune o matic on the surfliner is basically the same as the revstar. I received the surfliner yesterday and had a good ~5 hour session with it. The Tune o matic bridge is basically same height of the body of the guitar as the Revstar, I could lower the action a bit but it won't matter much. 

PERSONALLY I don't like TOM for palm muting , maybe just my way of handling the guitar. I don't find TOM that hard to palm mute but I find I need to pick closer to the neck in order to do so and personally I prefer picking a bit closer to the bridge when palm muting or picking in general although I pick depending on tone all the way from just past the bridge (for that plucky sound) up to a few inches past the neck over the frets for that more airy sound, but in general I find it difficult to palm mute TOMs, so considering Guitar Center's satisfaction guarantee no questions asked, I'm returning it and hopefully 3rd time's a charm with the Squier Classic Vibe '70s Telecaster Deluxe Maple Neck. The HH tele doesn't have coil split like the others and at first I thought I didn't want Coil Split (as if I know these things but I assumed 2 similar-priced guitars one without coil split/tap might be better overall quality pickups and I was thinking I didn't really want too much twang single coil tone but it is nice sometimes.

Not crazy about the toggle switch buttons on the Surfliner either, rather stiff and not effortless/quick. I like the smaller body though vs the revstar and Surfliner is much lighter and I don't notice and loss of sustain (I got lots of work to do with my BOSS ME-80 to get tones where I need them anyway before even thinking about body size for sustain). I like the Surfliner tone and volume knobs spin very easily and very knurled but they don't seem to pop up for coil split as easily as the Revstar's. 

I've had this Roland Duo Capture for like 13 years. it was like $75. 

https://www.roland.com/us/products/duo-capture/

I want to plug synthesizers and electric guitar to PC. With guitar I'm usually using a BOSS ME-80 FX pedal which may or may not need the Hi-Z button engaged which is a pre amp to plug electric guitar direct to the interface and still get sound. 

I could never get it to sound as clear as plugging headphones KRK KNS 8400 directly to the BOSS pedal or a synthesizer - It's easy to accidentally overdrive the input from these instruments using the interface (no I'm not accidentally using the Hi-Z preamp for synths it's not needed), it just seems I get a hum/noise unless I keep the volume rather low on either the synth/guitar and/or the interface. I also tried and ended up returning both because they had the same slight noise issue the focusrite scarlett 2i2 and steinberg ur22 interfaces about $175 each. My PC rig is simple and good components so I don't think it's got a ground issue, I built it with a 80 plug Gold PSU, $350 intel CPU, ~$180 GPU, etc. All I really have plugged into the PC is a powered USB hub with my cherry mx switch mechanical keyboard, a printer which stays off usually, monitor, USB light which is usually off, and mouse. 

This Roland USB interface has been 'popped' on and off many times, if the plug comes out it turns off of course then I put it back and it sorta pops back on maybe that's bad for it but still I got the same noise with the Steinberg and Scarlette new interfaces. 

I recently got a pair of used Rockville 8" monitors which only sound clear if I plug them direct to USB. Any other XLR, or RCA plugs from the Roland's LINE OUT to the speakers gives horrible noise like even when I move the mouse it tracks it and makes noise - the speakers may be defective though, one tweeter doesn't always work and the seller was sketchy but I kept them because they were a good deal I had a short time window to use the speakers and didn't want to waste time returning or finding another brand etc. But still they sound clear via USB but I can't play my guitar/synth with them unless I run the speakers to the audio interface. I'm probably going to sell these speakers for a loss and buy them brand new from an authorized retailer. 

But I'm willing to replace the USB interface with something cheap and simple, any recommendations? I'm confused because most the sub-$100 ones don't have a Hi-Z preamp switch although it says MIC/GUITAR usually 1/4 XLR input how does it know if I plug a synth to that only input which doesn't need the preamp engaged?

I prefer a small light interface like the Roland because I move it around a lot when playing guitar etc and sometimes it falls off the desk, so not really best ot use a heavier box'y scarlette 212 or Steinberg UR22. 

Again, all I really need from it is the plug guitar from BOSS ME-80, synthesizers like JP-8000, and maybe microphone, and I just want crystal clear audio as if I'm plugged direct with headphones into these instruments. 

On 6/7/2023 at 9:17 AM, daddymack said:

Just return the speakers...they were not as advertised.

I was going to but then I gave the seller the benefit of the doubt that maybe I blew them when I first started using them blasting drum and bass etc through them at full volume, but from what I read speakers shouldn't really blow from full volume but also that's how you blow them lol so IDK, plus they work fine with USB so IDK the issue, maybe my USB interface? 

I'll probably sell them locally get whatever I can for them and buy new and that way I have warranty etc I can exchange for if it turns out the speakers but that's unlikely. 

Recently bought a pair of Rockville APM8 monitors off ebay. Description said New Open Box which basically means the box was only opened and the item barely handled if at all. Even the photos showed them plugged in, the seller accidentally included a photo of a mackie 5" monitor, and the house looked messy. But I took the risk because it was like $170 vs $240 new. 

The seller didn't even include the Styrofoam padding that each monitor should have in the box, they threw like ripped up cereal boxes and plastic bags etc in there and taped over the whole box with blue painters tape it was unbelievable. But I figured if they work then ok whatever. The cables were clearly dirty but the speakers were basically in new condition.  But then I noticed the Right speaker tweeter would only work sometimes.

A) I did blast right when I started using them so I gave the seller some benefit of the doubt to not assume they sold known-blown speakers. But if I'm not mistaken monitors don't really just blow, sometimes the tweeter will 'clip' to basically turn itself off to save itself form blowing and it seems to be doing that but oddly instead of it Always should be working with low volume which I read means it's not Blown, instead it seems to work more often with high volume. 

B) I kept them anyway because I really wanted speakers at the moment and won't be needing them in a couple weeks and didn't want to waste any time returning and re ordering these as new from an authorized retailer or some other brand (Rockvilles are really cheap and supposedly good quality for 8" though so maybe I'll try them again New).

There's a proprietary cable that connects the Right speaker to the Left. The left is where everything plugs in, the power and inputs and volume, bass, treble controls. I think maybe sometimes when I jiggle this cable it made the tweeter work, and this cable end has a metal clamp with 2 mini screws and one screw was missing as if the seller tampered with it. 

These monitors can take input Direct from motherboard USB, RCA Red and White, or Balanced TRS XLR or 1/4" L and R.

My audio interface is a Roland Duo Capture, small little thing only cost about $65 10 years ago. It's got a 1/4" for MIC/GUITAR with a Hi-Z toggle switch to preamp an electric guitar, my synths don't need the Hi-Z switch on. It's also got a 1/8" LINE IN, 1/4" PHONES OUT and 1/8" LINE OUT. 

I have already a cable that is TRS 1/8" on one side to plug into the Roland's LINE OUT and the other is two 1/4" Balanced TS plugs (not TRS like the speaker says). This makes extreme noise and hum, also when I move my mouse around it makes extra noise. My PC is quite simple and good components so I don't think it's a ground issue or is it? Or the speakers are blown? Or the audio interface is blow? The interface works very clear with output headphones playing video games etc but I could never get a synth to play through it as clearly as I can plugging headphones directly to the synth. There's a small volume window before it starts to distort and I can't get the volume as loud as direct phones into the synth. 

I don't think it's the Roland interface but I'm not ruling it out. 

The only way these speakers sound clear is if I plug them direct to motherboard with USB but then I can't play synth/guitar though them from the Roland while also playing PC music/youtube. 

I figured because I was using TS and not TRS plugs, but there seems to be nothing made that is 1/8" male balanced TRS on one end and the other 1/4" R and L TRS balanced, only the TS 1/4" that I already have. 

So I bought a cheap XLR balanced cable on eBay that is two XLR balanced on one end to go into the speaker and a 1/8" male balanced TRS on the other end to go into the Roland but it gave the same noise like the TS cables. I also bought RCA cables made the same noise (1/8 male side plugs into Roland and the Red and White RCAs on the other end plug into speaker). 

So , I mean, IDK, I'm decent with soldering if it's maybe that for the tweeter but also it shouldn't be so noisy regardless if one tweeter doesn't work. 

I asked Rockville if they have any suggestion they only linked me the $25 cable that connects each speaker but it's out of stock but I doubt it's that. 

Should I try a different interface? I don't think the speakers are so damaged or blown though because they work fine USB'd to the PC (despite the tweeter clips or something and is usually not working so I'm ok with selling as a loss and buying new from an authorized retailer the same Rockville 8s)

If I replace USB interface I need something just simple, I'm confused by these 'best under $100" ones because mine has 1/4" that I use without the Hi-Z toggle switch only needed for guitar but I can plug my synth direct mono that 1/4" GUITAR/MIC input instead of the 1/8" LINE IN. And the newer ones don't seem to have a toggle hi-z and might only have 1/4" inputs so how does it not know I'm using a synth instead of a guitar/mix that needs pre amp Hi-z? If I use hi-Z with the Synth it gets distorted real bad. 

I can't stand this studio engineering stuff I'm sorry I'd like to smash all this in the street or something I just like to play and then this stuff always happens. This riddle. thanks if you can help. 

welp the RCA cables also give the same horrid noise hum etc as the XLR cables. 

IDK if the speakers are blown by the previous owner or maybe my audio interface has something to do with it. 

normally I'd return the speakers from eBay because the Right tweeter only works sometimes even with low volume I read it should always.

Plus they clearly weren't new open box, they didn't even include the box, cables dirty, seller ignoring messages. But I kept them knowing I might take a loss just because I really wanted speakers at the moment.

I emailed Rockville if have any suggestions about solder repair or something the tweeter and why is sound only clear when using direct USB from motherboard but everything I tried from my USB interface (to use guitar/synth with speakers plus PC music) is causing horrid noise. I mentioned the cable that connects them sometimes it might make the tweeter work if I jiggle the cable, rockville just linked me the $25 cable and it's out of stock So I'm waiting their reply 'what if it's not the cable, any suggestions?'

I may try replacing my USB Audio Interface Roland Duo Capture, I doubt it's this but I could never get audio through it from a synth or electric guitar from a multi FX unit  nearly as clear as directly plugging headphones to either of those. 

Making a thread now about help with if the speakers are blown or what. 

I thought the same at first but the Surfliner isn't named for Surf music, it's named after the Surfliner train that runs along the California coast. Tone-wise I think the description basically said it's neutral and the 70's Telecaster HH says it's a bit hot like vintage humbuckers, which I don't particularly want hot at all but I think it's a lot of marketing placebo affect, I can roll the tone down, the Surfliner has coil split probably can sound much 'hotter' or bite when engaged, or they can call it twang etc, 

others are saying the same thing, get used to a tunomatic it's well-known for palm muting. I think it's my posture when picking I tend to rest my pinky on the body or under the High E which I Was told by a guitar teacher when I got some lessons back in like 1995 but my fav guitarist from disco biscuits I see he rests his pinky on the body too sometimes so I'm ok w it if it happens to work for me too and this also combined with a low profile hardtail bridge seems to make palm muting effortless for me, but I Will try the surfliner first because I like everything else besides the TOM possibly being hard to mute but will see if I can get used to it. 

I just returned a yamaha revstar rse20 because it had a hairline crack in the neck, but it seems I don't really want that guitar anyway. Partly because it seemed way harder to palm mute vs the cheap $125 squier strat I had. In the store today I confirmed a cheap strat and tele with hardtail bridges were much easier to palm mute for me despite I just read other posts about people saying the opposite it seems some prefer the T-O-M because it's higher off the body of the guitar but I think my preference is actually the bridge lower to the body possibly like a strat/hardtail.

Another reason I wasn't crazy about the revstar is size, I know larger bodies may have better sustain but I tent to play in rather unconventional postures sometimes and it felt restricting with the Revstar.

I'm considering these now :

Squier Classic Vibe '70s Telecaster

[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.guitarcenter.com/Squier/Classic-Vibe-70s-Telecaster-Deluxe-Maple-Fingerboard-Electric-Guitar-Olympic-White-1500000264105.gc[/URL]

Guild Surfliner HH Solidbody Electric Guitar

[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.guitarcenter.com/Guild/Surfliner-HH-Solid-Body-Electric-Guitar-Shoreline-Mist-1500000396775.gc[/URL]

I'm leaning towards the surfliner HH because it has 23 frets and lower profile toggle switches instead of the common 3-way toggle above the neck because I strum there often and don't want the distraction of possibly hitting the taller switch. But the taller switch is probably way more common and easier to replace in the future if necessary vs the unique switches on the Surfliner.

But the Guild has a T-O-M and the Squier has a ahrdtail. Only way to really tell if the Guild will palm mute easier than the Revstar is to order it and return if don't like it but I feel kinda bad just returning things after test playing.

I also like that the Guild is through-body strung should be more stable - I don't mess with Floyd Rose or locking nuts anymore because it tended to make my cheap $125 Squier Strat go out of tune and I don't bend notes that extreme often and can use my fx pedal to bend octave if I really wanted - I admittedly though do press the headstock in-out for a subtle pitch bend sometimes I know this can't be good for the guitar or action etc settings but I do it every sometimes.  But it kind of boggles me that with a hardtail, the only sort of holding power is the friction simply caused but the two mini phillips head screws used to adjust action presses against the bottom - in other words it seems not much is keeping it from sort of fishtailing and killing sustain or tone or something but it seems to do its job just fine.

But anyway, mostly wondering about palm muting a T-O-M if the Guild Surfliner HH will likely have the same elevated feel as the Revstar.

That being said. I'm ordering the Guild now lol and if I gotta return it like-new after a quick, clean test run then whatever I mean it won't be dirty or damaged and they'll likely resell it as new. GC et have a no questions asked satisfaction guarantee 45 day window but it won't take long for me to see if it palm mutes as I prefer.

Yes, that color too.  I returned it today though at Guitar Center. I was within 2 days of the 45 day return window, even though it was defective with a hairline crack on the back of the neck, it took about a week to receive but I got a few weeks to play it and even without the crack I don't think I want it, so I'm glad it had a defect which I'd exchange it for even if I wanted to keep it especially since it's got sort of a plastic shell around the back neck unlike wood where you can see how bad the crack might be, because it's not as if I'm ordering things that aren't on display just to test them and return as used if I don't like it. They offered %10 off to keep it with the crack but I got the refund instead.

Next, I tested what I was assuming and was right: for whatever reason maybe the tuno-o matic Revstar is difficult to mute strings (not fully muted, but like the intro of Could you be loved Bob marley) but a cheap strat and telecaster it was much easier, now I realize I should have tested other tuno o matics while in the store.

Also for different postures etc the strat and tele feel smaller and easier to work with. A larger Revstar body may sustain better but I doubt I'll notice. One thing though is the front strap connector on a tele is a bit closer to you than on a strat etc, so it might make the headstock feel farther away and I noticed this with the revstar despite I haven't played much in forever I feel that when I shred etc higher frets that the opposite end near the headstock feels farther away as if I need to change posture or something to play the whole neck smoothly - but even just a 1" looser strap makes a difference, sometimes I play better with the guitar up on my chest and other times down near my waste, also standing vs sitting, and definitely a headphones chord is a PITA to have hanging in the way behind the neck of the high frets but I've been enjoying my speakers a bit and will figure out a way to prop the headphone chord away without it making me feel confined - I bop my head a lot while playing and I don't want the chord to be taught or with flopping slack and make me feel confined/distracted. But overall I need more practice to get my chops back up, and I'm noticing how keyboards have a more effortless design to play across octaves or play things quickly (you have 10 fingers available for notes whereas with a guitar is basically 4 fingers) but anyway - - it's probably just placebo that the telle strap connector is a bit closer than a strat etc. 

It felt like the highest frets are easier to play on a strat or telle. 

Despite I thought I really wanted a 12" radius like the revstar, I might settle for a 9.5" and never really notice once I get better at playing again like where I was when my $125 squier strat basically played itself lol. My two choices now are down to:

$450 9.5" Squier Classic Vibe '70s Telecaster Deluxe Maple Fingerboard Electric Guitar Black 

$500 Guild Surfliner HH Solidbody Electric Guitar 10".

I don't like the top switch possibly in the way/distracting when strumming over the neck area of the squier, nor the straight-in 1/4" hookup on the surfline (I just built cables and don't have 90 degree ends) but whatever. 

I'm leaning towards the Surfliner, prefer its 10" and 23 frets and doesn't have the 3-way toggle possibly in the way of strumming the neck,  but hoping the tuno o matic bridge isn't the cause of why the revstar was a lot harder to mute than a squier strat. I made a thread asking just this. 

Yes, that color too.  I returned it today though at Guitar Center. I was within 2 days of the 45 day return window, even though it was defective with a hairline crack on the back of the neck, it took about a week to receive but I got a few weeks to play it and even without the crack I don't think I want it, so I'm glad it had a defect which I'd exchange it for even if I wanted to keep it especially since it's got sort of a plastic shell around the back neck unlike wood where you can see how bad the crack might be, because it's not as if I'm ordering things that aren't on display just to test them and return as used if I don't like it. They offered %10 off to keep it with the crack but I got the refund instead.

Next, I tested what I was assuming and was right: for whatever reason maybe the tuno-o matic Revstar is difficult to mute strings (not fully muted, but like the intro of Could you be loved Bob marley) but a cheap strat and telecaster it was much easier, now I realize I should have tested other tuno o matics while in the store.

Also for different postures etc the strat and tele feel smaller and easier to work with. A larger Revstar body may sustain better but I doubt I'll notice. One thing though is the front strap connector on a tele is a bit closer to you than on a strat etc, so it might make the headstock feel farther away and I noticed this with the revstar despite I haven't played much in forever I feel that when I shred etc higher frets that the opposite end near the headstock feels farther away as if I need to change posture or something to play the whole neck smoothly - but even just a 1" looser strap makes a difference, sometimes I play better with the guitar up on my chest and other times down near my waste, also standing vs sitting, and definitely a headphones chord is a PITA to have hanging in the way behind the neck of the high frets but I've been enjoying my speakers a bit and will figure out a way to prop the headphone chord away without it making me feel confined - I bop my head a lot while playing and I don't want the chord to be taught or with flopping slack and make me feel confined/distracted. But overall I need more practice to get my chops back up, and I'm noticing how keyboards have a more effortless design to play across octaves or play things quickly (you have 10 fingers available for notes whereas with a guitar is basically 4 fingers) but anyway - - it's probably just placebo that the telle strap connector is a bit closer than a strat etc. 

It felt like the highest frets are easier to play on a strat or telle. 

Despite I thought I really wanted a 12" radius like the revstar, I might settle for a 9.5" and never really notice once I get better at playing again like where I was when my $125 squier strat basically played itself lol. My two choices now are down to:

$450 9.5" Squier Classic Vibe '70s Telecaster Deluxe Maple Fingerboard Electric Guitar Black 

$500 Guild Surfliner HH Solidbody Electric Guitar 10".

I don't like the top switch possibly in the way/distracting when strumming over the neck area of the squier, nor the straight-in 1/4" hookup on the surfline (I just built cables and don't have 90 degree ends) but whatever. 

I'm leaning towards the Surfliner, prefer its 10" and 23 frets and doesn't have the 3-way toggle possibly in the way of strumming the neck,  but hoping the tuno o matic bridge isn't the cause of why the revstar was a lot harder to mute than a squier strat. I made a thread asking just this. 

I just ordered this. 10ft Premium (1/8") 3.5mm AUX Stereo to 2 RCA Male Audio Y Cable Cord Headphones

https://www.ebay.com/itm/311802649276?hash=item4898e2dabc:g:ZToAAOSwdGFYp1--&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8HziuuBxH5HoFrpNYkKSNWSjFzvzUNDNpgL8dW6kmTo%2B4cp1iNOUV0M5T7LIyY2BAZOgr2KlNd1HsMk%2BVq%2BruNBc%2FR0mjKxEPi6rgWdzcmS65SXJH3ymlMrWkeWKsGfmwr9Rwb678IB%2FQM3yax%2F5Q%2Bs59tKKuWWDZequ6kgWmwpsbgQapUIgR3sa7HNb%2Fg5sqj2Fg%2F19qief5s4o09JzPnnSOZCoUqMaP7ZYSQk%2FoJLYjwwXUop1nctFSekLZCYm%2BSbj5%2BigY6V9HQrf%2B0Y5ltLE2VhGE5YHMXZV7uVmzYYZYTevEyAExZWZN2St8qDbgg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9KK39iPYg

I'd have gotten HOSA name-brand but I prefer 10ft with my set-up and couldn't find name-brand quickly in 10-12ft, plus this has free return shipping in case it doesn't work out.

19 hours ago, daddymack said:

gg25...try here

It's the same but 'pro version' of what I already have and tried. The 1/4s on that are just TS like the HOSA CMP Stereo Breakout 1/8 TRS, 1/4 TS that didn't work/was extremely noisy. 

https://www.sweetwater.com/c780--Insert_Y_Cables?highlight=CMP153&mrkgadid=&mrkgcl=28&mrkgen=&mrkgbflag=&mrkgcat=&acctid=21700000001645388&dskeywordid=92700073385564753&lid=92700073385564753&ds_s_kwgid=58700008069260217&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000007215323&dsproductgroupid=1798710459014&product_id=CMP153&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=&device=c&network=u&matchtype=&adpos=largenumber&locationid=9004018&creative=625135836145&targetid=pla-1798710459014&campaignid=18467073279&awsearchcpc=&&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Y72qaSl_wIVHCyzAB0A8QXUEAQYASABEgLBn_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

There seems to not be any made TRS on the 1/4s side, the speaker says right above the jack use balanced TRS or XLR. The XLR didn't work though is also noisy but not as bad as the TS 1/4s. 

Maybe with the shady back story of these speakers they were blown or something, the seller said new open box they didn't even include the box or Styrofoam padding they threw literally ripped up pieces of cereal boxes etc as padding.  I would think the XLR should work, the USB does work though. 

Actually, this XLR cable is extremely noisy, same when I tried the TS (not TRS like the speaker says on it) dual stereo breakout cable - both make a lot of noise and even tracks when I move the mouse makes a certain noise.

And the Right speaker tweeter keeps clipping or something works sometimes and others it doesn't. I read if a tweeter makes no sound on low volume (clipping shouldn't kick in to 'save' it) then it's blown. It didn't make sound with low volume but does with higher volume but only works randomly. I was close to returning these because they were clearly not OPEN BOX the ebay seller claimed, they didn't even include the original box and the cables were dirty etc, but was a good deal and I figured it they work then ok and I was happy to have something at the moment even if I have to resell for a small loss for something better.

The proprietary cable that connects each speaker to eachother has a metal screw down clamp on the connector ends and one is missing one of the two mini screws so IDK what happened and it seems to make the tweeter work sometimes if I fiddle with the cable a bit, seller hasn't replied but again I'm just happy to have something for now and can sell for a small loss later rather than retuning and ordering something like 2X more because I do want 8" and all the other 8" brands are like 2X more. 

I think I'm going to order the same Rockville AMP8 new through a authorized retailer and then I can warranty is anything goes wrong, I have to ask Rockville also what the heck cable can I use if I can not find balanced TRS 1/4s on one end and a 1/8" on the other from my USB interface, and the XLR cables are very noisy and the only way they sound decent is USB straight from the motherboard but then I can't get my guitar/synths to play through them also that way. 

The dual R and L balanced XLR to a 1/8 TRS I bought off eBay for $9 shipped works good, and it allows me to plug guitar/synth to the interface and hear it though the speakers unlike USB'ing the speakers to the PC. One thing to mention with this USB interface if I unplug the headphones it makes the speakers louder too. 

yamaha revstar rse20, the $500 one, mostly because I wanted fret dots and not lines too. 

Haven't played much guitar in years and not seriously for almost like 15, I switched more to synthesizers but always love guitar and shredding and strumming etc you just can't get with synths.

I had a cheap $120 squier Strat SSS single coil that I played to an amp. When I switched to PC music it was extremely loud, wasn't shielded and maybe had a ground issues with my rig because it was un-usably noisy especially in certain positions.  So I wanted a humbucker for the PC plus I like humbucker tone-genre music like blues etc and my fav guitarist uses humbucker mostly. 

I'm getting zero noise hum with it and my rig is just a cheap ~$70 Roland DUO Capture USB interface, and I'm run the guitar to a BOSS ME-80 first which I just picked up. 

ME-80 all I can say is some of the presets have you sounding like a rockstar right out of the box, I only used to have a 1992 Digitech RP1 which wasn't bad imho compared to the ME-80 (RP1 still had all the same common effects flangers, reverb, dist, etc as the new multi fx) and I had a BOSS GT-8 a few years back. IDK, it just seems some of the distortion presets esp I imagine used to take sound engineers a whole wall of individual compressors and limiters and individual effects and lots of years of passed-along tweaking techniques to get a signature sound and the ME-80 just kinda has that vibe to me for some sounds. The pedal should be metal not plastic but I keep it on a desk because I mostly got it because I hate menu-diving and it's got lots of knobs. IMHO a pedal like this with lots of knobs, it's good for performers who also don't want to menu dive but I think once it's on the floor you're way less likely to tweak knobs etc , instead switching between presets/custom patches. I think most people prefer a unit like this desk-height because they want the knob access, although it wasn't expensive I just think it'd make sense to make more units with tons of knobs and sliders and then small buttons for patches and if you want to use it with feet then it's got an accessory foot-pedal-only board which they probably do make something like this but IDK I just think BOSS would also since they're well-liked. Would save a bit on cost if don't need foot pedals and using these foot pedals with hands is a bit spread out and awkward way to press but overall very happy with this box although it doesn't seem to make any real abstract sorta synth sounds that I know of but I haven't really delved too deep into the sonic capabilities of it yet - been just playing having fun with it with the sorta new-again feel to playing guitar again. 

So the revstar, had about a month, probably 13 jam sessions some up to ~6 hours. Only reviewing it because it seems like a popular first-guitar, most colors backordered for month+ sam ash and guitar center/ Musician's friend. 

I really also wanted a 12" radius neck which this has because I never knew about this but when I tested les pauls etc in the store they felt so much more natural to scale and shred on and then I learned about 12" radius. 

I was used to the strat body and 9.5" radius. I would have bought the ~$450 Squier Classic Vibe '70s Telecaster dual humbucker if not for the 9.5" radius. 

But I'm finding the action seems a big high and I'm not sure if it'll buzz if I lower it, for now I'm ok with it but I think some cheaper les pauls had better action but I don't like the LP's non-fret dots nor the placement of the top tone switch WOULD get in the way how I strum the neck etc sometimes, so no LP for me. 

If I'm not mistaken, it felt 10X easier to palm mute the strings while playing a strat, IDK until I feel one again but it seems the revstar is really hard to palm mute. Yes the racing stripes on the blue one I got can cause confusion when looking at the strings although I think I play my best when not looking at either hand except maybe for some reason when playing the frets closer to the headstock, but this is something I noticed and was considering buying white pick guard material off ebay and attaching it under the strings so the strings over solid white would show them clearly. 

The tuning machines I think are the same even for the like $1100 model but they're non-locking and they do go out of tune and originally I never minded re-tuning was kinda something fun/testing to do but I find this doesn't stay in tune so great but I do bend notes a lot. If I upgrade I do want locking tuners I think but not floyd rose locking nut was too much a hassle to unbolt etc. 

The white on the pickguard and around the humbuckers is like yellow/brown actually and looks like it's been discolored from smoke or cooking etc, one reason I didn't want the white model although I like white but eventually eventually from sun etc a white guitar may look dirty, same with black, so I went with blue. 

TONE, Despite I read blues/jazz is commonly played on the neck pickup with tone rolled all the way down, it just sounds very canned to me and I do liek more twang than I had originally thought when deciding, I thought I wanted nothing like the bridge-only twang of a SSS but I like all tone ranges but it can sound quite canned but also what effect and eq is used will matter.

At first I didn't want the 'impurity' of a multi-purpose pickup, not that I know if this is even true but I figured for the same price point a humbucker that can't tap/split/filter for a more single coil tone which I thought I didn't want, that it'd be a better quality humbucker than one where they added this feature. But I pop the high pass filter and/or use the bridge pickup for higher treble more than I expected and it sounds single-coil-ish enough for me despite you can really hear a difference in youtube comparisons how much a real strat sounds different than a tap/split etc but imho overall tone is good for both ends of the spectrum. 

Body feels unnecessarily large, I know it might help with tone/sustain but personally I'd rather something smaller because sometimes when you play for hours to avoid fatigue or something, some of us put the guitar in sorta unconventional positions I mean like I even have this one where as a righty, I put the guitar on my right shoulder like a violin or something and wrap my right hand up around the the top to pick but the body seems too wide for that vs a strat. 

Mine came damaged with a hairline crack in the back of the neck and this is not wood where you can maybe see how bad it is, it's like a hard plastic material shell over wood and I don't know how bad it is, yes it glides good as other reviews say and maybe if playing with sweaty hands it'll glide better/worse than regular sealed wood.

I'm going to exchange it because of the crack, but since the color is out of stock, I'm not sure what to do because I don't want to be without a guitar now. I was going to buy the same color and switch it in the box but time is running out for return window.  I'm also considering returning it for something else if I can't get the action a tad better. Maybe even the 9.5" radius HH telecaster despite the 9.5" or maybe I'll cave for a les paul or something but I don't want to spend way too much time deciding again. It's a good guitar though most new/intermediates wanting HH will do good with this guitar.

well it turns out a quick google search says balanced vs unbalanced (for my 1/8" plug) that basically balanced is less likely to have noise interference but both should work but basically always buy balanced if you can. 

But I simply can not find what I'm looking for on eBay. 

From the manual https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/content/Manuals/APM_Manual_HR.pdf

says you can use either a balanced OR unbalanced 1/4 for R and L inputs as long as it's TRS. It says if it's Unbalanced then the jack will automatically convert the Ring (R) to ground (I guess for less chance of noise interference for it not being a balanced cable)

Ok but I can't find this cord, only with TS plugs. 

It can be balanced or unbalanced Right and Left 1/4 TRS, preferably balanced, and the other end should be balanced 1/8 male (trs or ts, I don't know but I think TRS should work either way, no?

There's also XLR input, so maybe I'll just buy this dual R and L balanced XLR to a 1/8 TRS ?

But maybe if I get the other 1/4" plugs if I can even find it, I can maybe use it for other things like my R and L out from synthesizer into the 1/8" line in on the audio interface. 

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/155420761469?hash=item242fcc9d7d:g:cPEAAOSwIIxj~huI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0MpGmH7OkbTIQqGyaNkQSVmFgsdeSsAZcpVHjCWy%2BZ2hXGgcJ0LlBppkITFSGzDbXDSohGUE7HWhNt0tzXqvD2hueJaPbounSscfA%2FHB6t3mgJIdMpA1KYriqrNKB64A21ixvy9%2BgyhhYFWg7v%2F9KhierpLDGFFORPwuAOuQs9nghgSpatneEhPFrYKnIylOTnGH45Zoabhn4Xz%2F4jBY2l5MqHZk1DyX8qLjV4mMYIWDDxFIGZaDmHvKzNVt3S5QRxoIa9Cabcot8swTgP4xEiQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_Sjt8uHYg

BUMP. thanks

I have a random guitar cable I bought off ebay in like 2014 but barely used it. I kept it in a box of music stuff and it's been tossed around a lot but not abused or anything. I just picked up guitar again and the cable worked fine for a few sessions then it stopped working unless in a very particular position type thing. I just soldered new Switchcraft plugs on both ends and my solder job seems fine but it's still doing this problem. So I'm guessing somewhere along the inside it some how broke or something? Or should I try re soldering the plugs? 

I have Mogami W2524 cable arriving tomorrow plus two more Switchcraft plugs which will be my main cable and I want one for backup so I might just order a $ 7one off eBay but am wondering about this one. 

just picked up a pair of Rockville AMP8" monitors. 
For now, I can use them to play youtube music with my printer's USB cable but I can't also play synth/guitar to them using my Roland Duo Capture interface. 

The speaker connections are: USB, RCA (duo capture doesn't have) and 'Balanced XLR/TRS'

I have a HOSA CMP Stereo Breakout 1/8 TRS, 1/4 TS but it doesn't work I think because the 1/4s are TS not TRS. (someone told me to buy this cable to plug R and L from synths into the Duo Capture's 1/8 Line In. The Duo Capture also has a 1/4" mic/guitar in with a hi-z button on the back and also buttons Input Monitor and Input Gain. 

I'm running the electric guitar first to a BOSS ME-80 multi effects and running that mono out 1/4 to the 1/4 on the Duo Capture using just a regular patch/guitar cable. 

please link something cheap but good on ebay that I need to connect the Duo Capture out to the speakers and hear youtube music and my instruments. thanks.  

I ended up buying a pair of powered/active Rockville 8" monitors for around $267 after tax (Actually I scored them barely used for $170 shipped). If the barely used sale didn't go through I'd have bought them new, A bit more than original budget but I think the ~$65 more than a more-known-brand 5" or 5.5" will be well worth to have 8" woofers, I'm not crazy about bass-heavy (like, I think a rattling car trunk system from the 1990's lol) but drums, bass etc I do want to feel the music and will enjoy 8" more.  I wish they had protective grill covers but I can probably affix aftermarket/used ones and I prefer knobs on the front (who doesn't over a 'clean look'?), and it'd be nice if the Bass and Treble had adjustable knobs instead of boost/on/off switch but I'll probably leave it regular mostly anyway, but overall they get really good reviews for the price. I'd have to spend about $400 for a more well-known pair of new 8"s, but these should be great for me.  Rockville also has 6.5" for around $170 new, but it's well known 8s" are basically the minimum to get decent bass and a full sound. Plus theses will be way louder than I need and was worried maybe even 5 or 5.5s wouldn't be loud enough to hear downstairs (with upstairs windows closed at certain hours/times) and was considering 4 total 4-5" cheaper 'Bookshelf Speakers' but this is a much better set up, and I have perfect shelf spots for them. 

Rockville APM8C 8" 2-Way 500W Active/Powered USB Studio Monitor Speakers Pair  https://www.ebay.com/itm/303890691184?hash=item46c14bf470:g:OBwAAOSwZnlkTySQ:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!08831!US!-1&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8DvAFbDrIBsA9ivvnwsytPUl5otXE6TAoa9T9CArRKWsW1SY%2F8WBaZbcA%2Bu1C3InjMJ3eH9Fl6bCpxapeONE8OF4Ga9UnJqvY600zbGB1qCxT8bpHlPq049mtE2AikItEU7f2EJVSyOAeQv6Xij8hyVxCC%2FfIJRn93cP%2BC5C5%2FWdPizxIZruM7QajSrU6fkyea9KVGTgZ5e30iBLIV0vMNlNOsbH8fOC3xPddow31n8YyxhI6ERqbXMkWGIVWw8oURyyjeCq%2FfoLYnYzxlD6%2BCsr7HRxoK7xldKG9NOzUOo7pNu%2BA6dattqwZrkPWsK1tA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8zl1cmAYg

thanks I bought last night a 1/4 to 1/4 Instrument cable from Guitar center and jammed along to youtube music all night it was amazing

Roland DUO Capture USB audio interface with electric guitar through a BOSS ME-80 I can't get any configuration of these wires/jacks to send audio to the PC. To make sure it wasn't something else I plugged my synthesizer keyboard and it works as it always did, and I plugged the guitar straight to the Duo 1/4" MIC/GUITAR (yes has Hi-Z) without the BOSS pedal and it works as it should.

The BOSS has two outputs:
1) REC OUT/PHONES 1/8" jack, I tried that to the 1/8" Duo Capture's Line In, nothing but noise or if I slightly pull the plug out half way I can hear the FX pedal like I want but it's totally muffled and wrong. I tried every combination of jacks by adding a stereo adapter from 1/8" to 1/4" and vice versa but get nothing. FWIW, this 1/8" to 1/8" male plug, if I put a 1/4" stereo adapter on each end and plug the guitar to the BOSS with that and my headphones to the BOSS's PHONES jack I get nothing but noise but if I use my 1/4" to 1/4" plus it works as it should. My 1/4" to 1/4" is a [Guitar AKA Patch Cable Instrument Cable, Unbalanced 2-Conductor TS plugs]

2) the Main Right Left / Mono 1/4" outputs, I tried every combination of those, and aparently I don't have a workable second 1/4 to 1/4 to try the MONO because the thin 1/8-1/8 I have using 1/4" adapters doesn't work for the guitar stright to the BOSS + headphones out the BOSS unlike the thicker 1/4-1/4" PATCH CABLE that works fine. I also tried all combinations including adding a 1/4" male to the 1/8" single-end of a wire that is 2 male 1/4" Orange and Grey plus and a stereo 1/8" on the single-end this is a HOSA STEREO BREAKOUT 1/8 TRS 1/4s TS. 

I have no idea about these cables I noted the specs because I had to ask for how to plug a synth to the USB interface (but I've just been using 1/4 to 1/4 mono for that and it works fine). 

I tried every button combination on the back of the DUO Capture which are HI-Z on/off, INPUT GAIN, INPUT MONITOR.

I would think this HOSA cable with a 1/4" adapter on the single-end into the 1/4" DUO CAPTURE MIC/GUITAR would work, with or maybe without the HI-Z as if the BOSS already is a preamp?

What cable should I buy off eBay? thanks.