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Twang mechanic

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Posts posted by Twang mechanic


  1. I remove the strings with my fingers then ensure the neck is dead flat with my eye. Then I lightly sand the frets with 800 w&d wrapped around a straight length of alloy out of my scrap bin to find high spots.Then I hit them or glue them down ,proof sand then dress them ,taking . a little bit more off each fret to the heel. Then a bit more w&d ,(1200) and some steel wool stolen from the kitchen Last of all I put a .5 wedge in the cavity. I only charge for parts . No complaints ever. Blows me away to see big name guitars leave the factory with action more suited to slide. Jems are constant patients .I once managed to fit a cigarette under the 12th on a floral. Players assume the Vai association means San Dimas-like action. This misconception is far from the truth and there,s not much that can be done. Theres no reason why guitars cant leave the factory with Charvel/Les paul playability. At the present silky action comes under the "custom shop" banner with a hefty price tag. I made some modifications to my old $300 Squire. It makes my Highway 1 look like firewood.


  2. There are so many variables. If there,s too much gap between the strings and 1st fret ,every other adjustment will mean nothing.Thats where I start with Fender type radius'. 12-16 compound necks can run dead straight with next to no gap and no buzz


  3. Thanks mate. My Recto is worse. When I fire it up it crackles like a welder running a bead...literally. And the footswitch lights flicker. My bro has the identical issue. I,ve heard the MKV PCBs are too close to each other and arc out. Quality control?


  4. Id definitely pick the 800. I have a 900 . To do it justice u need it cranked on clean channel with a floor processor . The 800 rocks with a tube screamer .100 wt combo or 50 wt head. Dave Navarro had a magic sound with his 900. The 800 will growl at any volume.


  5. Hot and cold weather will mess with your tuning . Here in OZ it can be 40 celcius all day and 10 at night . Unless I keep my axes in their cases daily retuning is an inevitable chore. String trees seem to be always placed in the wrong spot with severe angles, and IMHO manufactured with no after-thought. I file the dags off. Its my experience that string beds into the front & back stretching at these points . They are commonly screwed to the wood, hence the nasty angles. I use old ball ends off my strings under the tree to smooth out the path from nut to tuner. Roller trees are a better option . I make them with ball end too. I stretch the hell out of my new strings,then over-tune, leave it , return later & repeat. All generic metal parts,saddles, trees & tuner posts should be filed,sanded and polished. Sharp tuner post holes dig into the bass strings and break the trebles.


  6. About 3 months ago my 50 watt EVH 5150lll head started switching itself from the red channel to the green . I stomp it back to red but it returns to green. It will stay on blue. This problem renders the head useless for gigs . Any one else have this issue? , or a solution?


  7. Buy a new neck! You should have ALL the right tools for a re-fret. Buy pre-radiused cut to length units. The bigger the fret the more difficult it is to fit &glue. Take your time prepping the board WITH a radiused sanding/levelling block. Run a triangular file through the slots to allow for the thicker tang where it meets the underside of the fret. It will sit off the board if you dont.If your slot ends are too worn to hold the tang,obtain some crimpers to give the tang grip and leave room for filler if no binding.If possible dress the ends before glueing.


  8. Firstly, I,d block the trem,tune up let it sit & come back later to check the tuning. No sense gettin' the tools out til' you,ve exhausted the possible faults. if the D&G were sticking in the nut the force would create an abnormal bow. Is the truss rod properly adjusted? Are the strings wound onto the tuner post correctly? Sometimes the grub screws in the saddles wear into the bridge plate causing them to stick. I always push them up to make sure every string change. Try running oxy torch tip cleaners or old bass strings thru your nut slots before any surgery. I run my bridge flat & my knife edge screws 1 or2 ml proud of base plate. Is your trem spring claw secure. other than that, buy MIJ avoid MIM. good luck


  9. Its still the 90s Parker Flys for me. Any move away from timber is a positive. Stainless glued frets, composite construction. Stability for life. Unless trad, built axes are kept in a climate controlled room or never leave the case they will react to every temperature change. Will the next Ken Parker please stand up


  10. I was going to buy a San dimas,mainly for the neck but I wanted a US build. For not too much more cash with the art series I get a better quality body timber, an EVH pick up which unlike various Dimarzios & Seymours you dont need an audio lab to hear the tonal characteristics described on the spec sheet. The surface mount Floyd,the common sense trem springs, the no hassle virtually buzz free compound rock maple neck .Folks pay up to 5K for a Jem thats playability is compromised by extremely limited action adjustment. T he relics & signed units are a wank (IMO)and the new EVH budget series just greed. I,ll probably sand off the stripes. My strats & Jems are going back in the cases,no more neck tinkering ,trying to get low action(which is impossible on Jems) & no see-sawing trem. My only concern is the volume control.On my Wolfgang my pick hand turns the volume off constantly. I,ve taped it up. It,s puzzling that Ed overlooked this.Private stock timbers and elaborate inlays make for good furniture if youve got the action of a lap steel.

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