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Posts posted by rahimiiii

  1. Originally posted by Carati

    Just like dishonest Ebay sellers, they make their money on the inflated shipping charges - not the strings.


    I would pay about 30-40 bucks for 10 set of string if I do it locally (depending on exchange rate), which is not too bad because unlike just strings these are Daddario rather than some just string off brand stuff. Only bad is I can't custom set but I dont gig so I can't justify 7 dozen sets of string, I mean I'd take so long to use that much I'd have to pass it on to my kids! And another problem with bulk string like that if I dont use it fast enough is that they WILL rust before I get to use them all (Taiwan is very humid). I like Daddario because they pack it in those plastic packages so the string wont rust until you take them out. I had a set of Fender strings that rusted out of the package.


    If the complaint is the string rusting after installing it, rub some fingerboard oil into it before stringing it up and if possible rub it with oil after playing. Like all plain steel strings they will need the oil to prevent rust. Elixirs are not a cure all believe it or not, because only the EAD and G (if wound) is coated, rest of the unwound strings are NOT coated so they will rust just as fast as any other string. Another added benefit of the oil is it will make strings more slick so slides are easier... Dont get too much on, just a light coat is enough.

  2. I love strats because of the sexy contour... anything else like sound... well its the player's hand and amps/pickups. I tried other shapes like Tele (without the rib/arm contour... yuck) the LP shape (too dammed heavy) and for some reason, I just can't seem to stop buying strat types... its like every guitar I buy or build is strats...


    I know there's ibanez as well but they are pretty much strat shape that is rear routed and have different contour and uses floyds.

  3. I pay 35 dollars for shipping (regardless of order size) so I need to order 7 dozen of strings to make shipping cost the same as a USA order... I think its cheaper for me to buy 10 sets of strings from a local store (they give significant discount if you buy 10 sets)


    sucks to have to pay international shipping... its only worth it on non-consumable items such as guitar bodies and neck.

  4. Originally posted by TheAtomicJeff

    But why go through all that when you can just use Elixirs to begin with?



    If you got one of those necks that has heel adjust and you gotta detune and take off the neck and adjust your truss rod, or if you need to correct a wiring mistake and are afraid of doing it because you might ruin your expensive elixirs, it makes sense to use cheaper string. Once everything is settled then by all means go with better strings.

  5. When I first picked up a guitar I tried elixir polywebs on affinity strats just because the salesman said it was more comfortable due to the coating. Others told me it sounds better than the stock string. The only problem is if you are doing work on the guitar, DO NOT use elixirs. If you tune and detune them all the time it stresses the strings and cause them to break early. I find that you can make those DaDardio strings last longer by coating them with oil when you install them and recoat them maybe every few days if you play alot. This keeps it from rusting.

  6. Remember the thread a while ago about modded strats..? well here it is again... I started a thread called "post your natural body strat" and I entered one last year (I think). The problem is I don't have a picture of the origional unmodded strat anymore. I do have a picture of the origional body here however....




    I have since took the body and refinished it to 3 tone sunburst in nitrocellouse lacquer I think (well it doesn't say if its nitro or acrylic on the can). Here are some pics...















    Everything is 100% origional, except for the finish. I didn't like the color it came with so I thought a 3 tone sunburst would look nice. It wasn't 100% perfect as you would expect of an amatuer sunburst, but its okay....

  7. I wonder anyone ever left a maple neck unfinished? Im asking cause warmoth said you have to finish a maple neck so it wont warp or anything but I have been thinking, I have seen some players who prefer unfinished neck cause they said it felt faster or whatever. So I have been contemplating leaving necks unfinished because its easier (less smelling paint fumes that kills brain cells) or at least just spray a few coats of clear spray paint and steel wool them to protect the neck from warping. Would that be enough?

  8. I am so stuck, cant get any better at playing this. All I can do is play house of the rising sun and hotel california (chord only) and intro to "sweet child of mine" and figured out various iron maiden riffs. I can do all the open chords, and the minor pent scale, however I can't seem to articulate well at all, like I seen millions of players they seem to be able to improvise very well. I wonder is there any good online lesson or perhaps a DVD I can buy that can get me out of this rut?


    cant take lessons, dont have time for it...

  9. Originally posted by Mr.Mow

    You what now?

    Is gun powder based on Nitrocellulose?

    Powders used in modern rifles are nitrocellouse (aka smokeless powder). The powders used in ancient (and I mean ancient, like civil war era) rifles are called "blackpowder" and its a mixture of chemicals.

    Nitro is just basically cotton dissolved in nitric acid and they were origionally used to blow stuff up or shoot bullet out of guns, but someone invented a plastic form of nitro by mixing nitrocellouse and some kind of plastic and dissolve them in acetone and letting them dry, thus making cellouid (you know what pickguards back in the day are made of)

  10. Ok this sounds silly, but if everyone is so into nitro why not just take rifle powder and dissolve it in lacquer thinner or acetone and spray that on the guitar? They are easy to get (at least in the United States) and last time I did that makes a semi transparant black matte finish. However stick to SINGLE BASED powder such as ones found in large rifles (means no 5.56mm rounds or .223's) because double based powder found in most small caliber rifles and most pistol rounds, contains nitroglycerine as well, and from what I heard they are not very good for your health...


    Try IMR 8xxx (I forgot which it is... I used to use them to reload 7mm magnums, they are rod shaped and most likely single based) and avoid things like those Bullseye Red or Green dot powder, they are double based.

  11. I think this is the amp, I play my American strat through a pro junior and for some reason any note higher than the high e string sounds like a slight distortion at any volume. It sounds almost like metallic sound, and not clean sounding like it should. I wonder what is the problem here? Its not the guitar cause it doesnt sound like that unplugged or plugged into another amp. Also it sounds like this when the tone is dialed to increase the highs, but when the neck pickup is turned on or the highs are rolled off then the metallic sound disappears and it sounds normal...

  12. Ok, the problem with hobby paint is that they are probably enamel or something which can cause huge problems, the finish on this body should be compatible with anything however since it is Fender factory finish and probably poly which is just next to impossible to dissolve in any solvents. I will sand some off and get to the sealer coat (I think they use fullerplast) then start there. If I can find any candy or whatever paint that would be nice, or else I will have to find ways to somehow spray dyes on this without spending on equipments...

  13. I dont know what is going on with reranch, but it is down. If you type www.reranch.com it gives a blank page, and the forum is down as well. The www.flash.net/reranch (or something like it) site is still up however if you follow the link to the forum it is down as well. I emailed and got no answer so I was wondering are they going out of business?


    I want to ask a question about sunbursting, I got a Fender American deluxe alder body with "amber" finish which is basically a butterscotch looking alder clear coated body. I dont like the color, it looks too dark and butterscotch really looks better on ash anyways. I am thinking of sunbursting it but I dont have and can't invest in expensive spray equipment and compressors. I can use a black spray paint to do the outter black area but I dont know what to do about the inner red area since no one makes spray paints in anniline dyes and I do not have access to preval unit (no one sells anything like it in Taiwan) I have dyes which I use for tie dye that I can dissolve in alcohol and use it as shader coat for the burst portion but I have no way of spraying it, so is it possible to whipe them onto a sealed body and then seal them in with clear lacquer? I am really lost as to what to do here but you know the wood grain does look good on the body and it does no good just sitting there doing nothing. Or am I just stuck with doing a 2 tone burst using black spray paints?






    This is what the body looks like... I realize that Fender bodies shouldnt be tampered with but the resale on ebay for this color is so bad anyways so its probably worth a try...

  14. img00074ib.jpg

    This is my Fender American Deluxe strat.... only mods done is replaced the body with a mighty mite Ash body with qulited maple veneer. It looks a lot better than my other butterscotch looking alder body (although it would make a nice candidate for sunbursting...) and the neck pocket fit is better too. I drilled the tremolo mounting holes myself and it intonates just fine, in fact the sustain is now better because there are no more microtilt crap that makes the neck sit in mid air therefore killing sustain. It really isnt much of a mod, just dont want to kill any value by doing any sort of perm. mod, however it seems clear alder body isnt worth much in the used market anyways so I might just sand it and try to sunburst it (and if failing that just coat it with a really nice automotive metallic color that closely resembles lake placid blue)

    I am planning on buying some warmoth parts and building myself a custom guitar but I do wonder if I should use the other body or buy another (nicer) warmoth body for the project as well...
  15. Speaking of korean made guitars, I saw these Cort acoustic guitars that has all solid back/side and curly maple binding. The cost is something around 600 dollars in Taiwan. A similar martin or taylor can go well over 1500 or even 2000 dollars. I wonder what is the difference because I know accoustic guitars can really suck if they are poorly made and some of the problems can really pop up later.... They do play great though, and I am contemplating saving for one.... or should I save for a real martin or taylor? whats the difference?


    What should I look for when looking at a korean made accoustic guitar? I dont know too much about accoustics (I play strats mainly) but you know, ebony fretboard/all solid wood front/back/side, curly maple binding, quality tuner and things like that for a price that makes martin look like an extortion is really hard to pass up, but I am concerned about future problem such as warped neck (due to improperly dried wood), improperly glued neck (which looks fine initially but cracks and stuff after about a year) bridge coming loose...

  16. I dont know how much US strats cost in iceland or anything, but it seems anyone outside the USA gets screwed on low to mid end Fenders. I paid like US prices for a American Deluxe but a Mexican costs something like 500 USD. It just seems like a better bang for the buck to buy higher end stuff here... of course you got those chinese made guitars that costs next to nothing (I will probably get one just to practice re-fretting and refinishing on...)

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