Sam24

Posted January 29, 2011

 

Originally Posted by jimosity

I can help, but you'd have to send it to me.

 

Thanks but i would like to repair by myself

Posted January 29, 2011

Originally Posted by drasp

Follow the trace leading from the lifted pad with your eyes - see where it vanishes under that IC? With a multimeter, you could probe the surrounding traces for continuity & figure out where it should go. . .

Again, I'm not trying to be difficult, but I also have to consider that lots of folks pay for my DIY kits to get my help with things like this.

I'm so sorry, i didn't know you do this for money!!
You gave me a big help by trying to' help me , so i don't wanna stress you again, i'll try to' follow the trace goobg under that IC and see where it should be...thanks again!

Posted January 28, 2011

 

Originally Posted by Sam24

here the pic

 

Anybody can help me?

Posted January 26, 2011

Posted January 26, 2011

Originally Posted by Sam24

............ sorry for the ignorance
can you please tel me how to do it?

really, i can't see it becouse it's a little bit white and i don't understand where is the other connection!!

Posted January 26, 2011

Originally Posted by drasp

I don't have a schematic, but try a combination of shining a flashlight through the PCB & testing for continuity w/ a multimeter.

............ sorry for the ignorance
can you please tel me how to do it?

Posted January 26, 2011

Originally Posted by drasp

Correct - I was trying to give you that piece of info w/o just saying it. Sorry if the lines of communication were crossed!

R36 sets the gain/output level for the R channel & R37 for the L. If it matters to you, trace past where you damaged the board & connect your new resistor there - may be possible to save the R channel. Or not.

you suggest to follow the connections and solder the resistor there?...i tried but i can't see it, or better i can do for the parto going to the left side (if you are locking at the stompbox) but i cant for the other...any suggestion for the schematics??

Posted January 23, 2011

 

Originally Posted by drasp

You may be missing my point. I was suggesting you run it with stereo outs. Simply add a second output and see if signal is present on both sides. . .

 

and do you know how to make the double preset mod by myself please?

Posted January 22, 2011

Posted January 22, 2011

Originally Posted by drasp

Re-read the instructions.

hi again, this is what Keeley replyed to me:

my question
"hello, i have a problem and i hope you can help me.
i have done the mod on a line 6 dl4, for the volume drop, and i have changed the R36 resistor with a 22k, but i have broken the R37 place and i can't anymore solder the new 22k here too! but my dl4 works anyway!!! can i know why?!?!? what the R37 is for??? thanks!
best regards Simone"

answere
"Howdy sir!
R37 is a 36K resistor, it may work without it, it is probably designed to set a bias voltage or maybe a pull-up resistor, haven

Posted January 19, 2011

 

Originally Posted by drasp

Re-read the instructions.

 

I think so! ...by the way can you confirm that the auto volume mod has the volume low???

Posted January 19, 2011

Posted January 19, 2011

 

Originally Posted by drasp

Does it still work in stereo. . .?

 

That is the question!!! How can i chek it?!

Posted January 19, 2011

Posted January 19, 2011

hi everybody...i wanted to do the mod for the volume drop...so i changed the r36 with a 22k and everything went right, then i did the same with the r37 but unforunally i made a s...t and now i have a dl4 WHITOUT the r37 resistor....BUT IT WORKS! can i know what the r37 is for???? why my dl4 still works!?!?!?! :