L.E.D. Effect Pedal Mods!!!!

Here are some of the L.E.D. mods I did to a few pedals. They are pretty basic, but a little tricky. You can definitely see them now bright blue & UV black light purple! No more lame ass red!

it would be too distracting for me in the middle of a gig. but you like 'em, more power to ya.

Decent.

UV LEDs may give you a purple-ish light, but they also can be dangerous to your eyes. There are other ways of achieving purple (RGB LEDs, red/blue bipolar LEDs, etc) if that's what you want.

I just feel it's an unnecessary risk to eyesight damage by using UV LEDs for anything other than lighting UV-reactive things, especially a stomp box that you may need to look at more closely in dimly-lit areas.

Hey mArShAlLMeTAl.

It's good that you're being proactive in improving your gear. Building and modding is rewarding, and you can actually LEARN stuff!

Here are a few things to keep in mind for this sort of mod.

You've probably already discovered that the current limiting resistor in series with the LED needs to be changed when you go to a non-red LED. Part of the reason for this is because the forward voltage drop on a red LED is lower than any of the other LED colors, so the resistor doesn't need to drop as much voltage in order to get the same current level.

Another reason is because those other LED colors generally need more current to get the same visible brightness. You've probably been cranking that current up even higher in order to make those LED's super bright.

A red LED is comfortably visible in a reduced light environment at around 5mA or 6mA. A green or yellow LED might need a couple more milliamps to get the same brightness. A blue or white LED might need 10mA or 12mA, and a UV might need 15mA. These are average numbers, and they are subjective - some people can comfortably see these other colors at less current, and some people would want more current. Since your objective was to make them REALLY visible, you've probably cranked the current up to 20mA or more.

A simple transistor based boost, OD, or fuzz circuit may only draw about 3mA of current. A red LED will increase the total current to 8mA or 9mA. If you take the LED current up to 20mA, then you're more than doubling the total current draw, and cutting the battery life in half. Ok, not a big deal if you're powering the pedals from a power supply. But, switching that extra current on and off can cause voltage spikes. Depending on the circuit, this can cause a pop when you switch the effect on.

Pedal makers consider this stuff when they decide what sort of LED to use in a pedal. They often choose red because it will give the longest battery life, have the least chance of causing pops, and they also cost a bit less.

How well do those purple ones do in outdoor light? We did an outdoor benefit last week and I hate playing outside in the daytime 'cause those red LEDs just don't "show"...........

I only play indoors, so can get away with running LEDs at fairly low power. I frequently use an opto tremolo pedal of my own design. I can easily get 30 hours from it on a single alkaline 9V battery, and it has two LEDs in it - one shining on the LDR, and the other shining at me

On the other hand, I have a Guyatone digital delay pedal. LED or not, it flattens a rechargeable 9V battery in 2 hours

On the other hand, I have a Guyatone digital delay pedal. LED or not, it flattens a rechargeable 9V battery in 2 hours

My delay pedal is a battery hog too, I think most are. I've been running everything off of a supply these days.

On the other hand, I have a Guyatone digital delay pedal. LED or not, it flattens a rechargeable 9V battery in 2 hours

Digital pedals do that. I learned this lesson with a Line6 stompbox. It's ironic that they have what's probably the most brilliant battery compartment access system ever, considering they'll all drain a 9V battery in an hour or two, which kind of defeats the point of running them on battery in the first place.

Its more for the cosmetic look of the led. But i mean it still "custom". looks rad