mrbrown49

Put a second nut/washer on the back side to set the height.  Loctite in place.

Love to see a project thread on here again.  Keep it up!

Close to the edge hammering oversized bushings into hard wood like maple is likely to split.  Ream it to the proper size first.

19 hours ago, gardo said:

Our cat loves my playin

Cool cat.

Cool rug.

1 hour ago, Mike47 said:

But a linear pot provides more even volume control. I doubt it has any impact upon the problem I'm experiencing

 

15 hours ago, Mike47 said:

Thanks for replying. Old pots were 250k which is what the new pots are. I did check with a meter to ensure the replacement was a linear pot. Old pot worked same which is why I thought the pot was bad.  Guitar uses Hofner pickups.

Linear?

Could be the problem.

You want a log taper pot for the volume.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/finishing-washer-blackface-silverface-plated-metal

Something like this may work. They also have #10s.

Mcmaster if you dont have luck anywhere else.

Definitely not much arguing here anymore.  

2 hours ago, 1001gear said:

I have a single input on the preamp.

 

 

No AC pedals, all isolated via BBE power brick but the only toan in my fingers is this thuddy drumming sound. What I originally wanted to do was switch boost from pre to post but I probably need a loop switcher for that. Meanwhile I've been manually swapping stuff around and getting good if somewhat tedious results.

Get another boost?

How'd that schematic work out?

23 hours ago, ksl said:

Thanks, as always, DADDY,,, but I require 1",,, that's 25mm....

Nevermind they are metric threads. Get hung up on the 16 thousands of an inch.😆

32 threads per inch is the threading. Its the standard course thread for a #10 size screw.

Youll wany something on there.  I like Tru oil. Its super easy to apply too.

Hmmm.  I think swapping the bridge is the best option.

looks like a tele. Shim the neck if its a bolt on.

Is there a ground going to the bridge?  

^

That high up, neck relief wont have much effect 

Wire it just lile the pic.  You absolutely have to ground the third lug. Why would you think otherwise?

4 hours ago, ksl said:

And what does this plug consist of,,, more wood, & would it be cut on a jig? This is all new territory, hence my apprehension,, but I just know I can do it, but I don't own all the required tools,,

thnx

A dowel will work fine as a plug. 

Without a drill press you should pass on this one. 

Youll need to pull the bushings, plug it and redrill.  Your new hole will be part on the plug and partly in the body wood which can be tricky.  The bit may want to wander.  I wouldn't attempt it without a drill press. Do you have a drill press? Fwiw, most home drill presses dont have a large enough throat to reach bridge posts, so id check that first. Of course that depends on the body shape. 

You sure it only needs to move back 2mm? Id maybe move it a little more than that if you need more room to adjust for intonation.  

If you really want to feed the IEMs from a DI, you really need to use an amp/speaker modeler.

Your best option IMO is to just use the mic'd cab to feed the monitors.  Youll have to be careful with your amp volume, maybe point it upwards or sideways.  If you find you have to set the amp volume so low you cant get a decent sound from the amp, ditch the amp and get a modeling rig.

I dont like the idea of the monitors having a different tone path than the mains.  

Does it do it acoustcally too, or just through the amp?

I agree with davie.

Interfaces also usually have xlr inputs, and better preamps than an internal soundcard. 

T-armond?