Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mrbrown49

  1. 4 hours ago, Brindleleaf said:

    I just realized that 'strings floating around' sounds really bad...but it's not...makes me play LIGHTLY...which is interesting.

    They strings only need to sit in the slot about half way. They look ok from the pic. Don't want to go too low or you'll have more problems.

    Check the nut action.  Hold the strings down just in front of the second fret. The strings should just clear the first fret.

  2. 5 minutes ago, 6down1togo said:

    They make great, inexpensive guitar cases also.

    I've bought a couple when selling guitars without a case when a buyer insisted on one. Fast and free shipping.

    Let me guess. You got a message from Wendy too? 😄

  3. From the little write up that Mikeo posted it sounds like the whole top comes off, though I don't see screws or anything that would obviously facilitate that. 

    Interesting, I'd like to see pics if you start digging into it. 

  4. 11 hours ago, r_clockberg said:

    Thanks guys! 

    So if not naphtha, then what? I thought I'd use a Q-tip and try and dilute some of the paint around the cracks. Attaching some pics to show the gnarlyness. Being a 1984(?) set neck guitar, I think such cracks are to be expected so I'm not TOO anal about repairing them, but pointers are appreciated!


    That finish looks like a polyester or polyurethane finish.  No solvent, including naphtha, will get that stuff to reflow and close cracks.  If it was nitro you'd have a prayer of fixing cracks and gaps because it reflows easily with sovent, or application of more finish. But, that doesn't look like nitro. 

    I wouldn't worry about it anyway.  It looks to be in great shape other wise. 

    If you can't find original electronics one of these may do.


  5. 2 hours ago, Dan Furr55 said:

    Thanks Mikeo

    if you closed the f holes and cut in a soundhole wouldnt it now sound like an acoustic?


    No.  It won't.  The real sound producer of an acoustic guitar is the top.  It is driven much like a speaker.  For that to happen the construction of the guitar has to facilitate the top vibrating; solid top, minimal bracing etc.

    Hollow and  semi-hollow electric guitars are usually constructed to minimize the vibration of the top because it causes feedback; laminate tops, center blocks, more bracing. 

  6. 2 hours ago, Mikeo said:

    Back in the old days I played out of a Marshall JCM 800 4104 ( which is a 50 watt  2X12 combo) and a Fender Twin Reverb.

    I still have booth of these amps. I keep them for some reason, but I forget why.


    On my pedal board I have an A/B/Y box.

    I never was big into owing  tons of effects. If the amp delivered that's almost all I need.


    I have a Yamaha THR classic practice amp.

    It s what it is.






     How do you like the yamaha?


    13 minutes ago, ksl said:

    What's the no load all about, & it's benefit? I currently go with an SSS w/1V, 1T, & a Blender pot,,300K+ pots,,, 550K vol pot on my HSS,,, If I'm not mistaken, it acts like a regular pot until it gets to the end, then it's essentially out of the circuit? True benefit?

    Thanks for all the inspiration, folks!

    Exactly right.  It jumps to infinite resistance at the top end, and there's a little detent so you know when your hit it.  It can simply be used for added twang, but I find it also makes the volume knob more useable.

  8. 2 hours ago, u6crash said:

    The set I liked best that I actually owned were Custom Shop 50s with a no load tone pot. I had one of the Fender 50th Anniversary Strats and I'm pretty sure that's what was in it. If I'm wrong on that spec, then it's whatever that guitar was loaded with.

    I'm a fan of the no load tone pot as well. 

  • Create New...