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Posts posted by Eye_Of_The_Liger

  1. So the reverb tank in my combo amp tends to rattle pretty badly whenever I hit certain notes. I figure I can just take it out, tighten up whatever's loose, re-install it, TA-DAAAAA!


    But one day I happened to tighten the screws that attach the tank to the bottom of the amp, thinking that that might fix the rattling. It didn't, and I don't know if it's just me, but I think the decay time on the reverb got a little shorter as a result, so....


    Before I take the reverb tank out, is there anything I should know first in regards to installation and/or maintenance?

  2. If he used a scope to minimize crossover distortion, he wouldn't have worried about the specific current draw, just the reproduction of the waveform. Some techs think that this is the best way to bias an amp. Others prefer to set by current draw. It's just two ways of looking at the same problem.




    Well, seeing as how I'm not a big fan of taking my amp to a shop just to have it biased, you think I would be safe to just use the value I calculated above?

  3. Ok, so I had been having problems with my Ampeg Reverberocket RI. Long story short, I got my amp back from the shop with Ruby 6L6GC's installed (that's what they come with stock). The invoice indicated that the bias current was set at 29 mA, which seemed kinda strange to me. So I measured the plate voltage (pin 3 to pin 8), and it's 420 Vdc. So, with a max plate dissipation of 30W for 6L6GC's...


    30/420*50% max plate dissipation = 35.7 mA


    And normally I'd like to set it to at least 65% max dissipation.


    So my question is, why the hell would the amp tech set the bias so cold? He could have set it to at least 40 mA, and it still would have been well below the upper limit... unless there's something I'm missing...



  4. Sennheiser MD421

    Large diaphragm, no proximity effect to speak of, rugged as can be, and it will not change your tone like those other mics I've tried (and I've tried many).

    I was needing a new mic, and I went to my local music store. The owner took a 421 out of his recording studio and said I could try it for the weekend, and if I liked it he would order one for me.

    I was playing Sundays upstairs at a yacht basin in a room with open windows. A musician friend of mine came to see us, and when she came in she said "What did you do to your sax! It sounds great! I could hear the difference in the parking lot!!!"

    It's simply the best dynamic mic you can get for a saxophone.

    Insights and incites by Notes


    Ok, well, are there any good mic's that don't cost almost $400.00?

  5. Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I've been thinking of posting this for a while.


    I'm looking for a good mic that I can bring with me to gigs. I'm currently in a rock band with three horns (Me on Tenor, plus a Trombonist and Trumpet player). What's really annoying me is that certain notes, specifically notes that require pressing all the keys below A, come out pretty clearly with the bell in front of the mic. Any notes with a lot of open keys, e.g. C#, get lost in the mix because most of the sound is coming out of the keys, not the bell. We did some recording, and the guy who recorded us pointed the mic sort of halfway between the bell and keys. It was a genius solution that worked great, but it doesn't work as well live, where the soundguys don't always know what to do with horn players, and the mic's aren't necessarily ideal. So I've been thinking of just buying my own mic for live stuff.

  6. I'm thinking about getting a metal mouthpiece. I already have a Runyon Custom, which I like, but at the same time I'm pretty clueless about saxophone mouthpieces in general. I only got the Custom because a fellow sax player recommended it (and he just so happened to be selling one at the time :idk: ). Lately I've been seeing the need for a metal mouthpiece, and so naturally I'm looking at Runyons again. Any other recommendations?

  7. I've got an Ampeg Reverberocket RI (1X12 50W combo). I recently replaced the power tubes because they were starting to fail (making a low freq. hum, weird blue-ish glow), set it to the same bias value that I always set it. Just last night, it dies on me (BONUS - during a gig, not even halfway into our second song :facepalm: ). I opened up the back panel and found that the fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse, turned the amp on without anything plugged in, and everything SEEMED to be in good working order again.


    So... anything else I should try (other than plugging in my guitar and playing it for a while)?

    Should I have replaced the fuse as well as the tubes in the first place (perhaps the fuse was on its way out too)?

    Anything else I should be worried about?

  8. +1

    also if it gradually comes back it could be cap related.


    Let's hope not.



    Keep in mind that I can get the hum to come back almost instantly by simply knocking on the speaker magnet. That's why I'm thinking it's more likely a speaker problem but eh, what do I know...?

  9. Last night at band practice I muted my guitar (using a Boss TU-2, not that that's relevant here), and I noticed a weird low pitched hum. Not the usual 60Hz kind either. I reached into the back of my amp (1x12 combo) and I felt the speaker cone vibrating all by itself. It would go away when I put my amp on standby, and when I powered it back up it would gradually come back. I was even able to make it start humming more quickly by powering up my amp and then knocking on the speaker magnet.


    I don't know anything about speakers, so I'm only assuming that maybe I just need to tighten the screws that hold the speakers in place, but I don't know. Any of you HCAF vets know that's going on here? Thanks.

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