Jump to content

SteinbergerHack

Members
  • Content Count

    24,242
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    130

Posts posted by SteinbergerHack

  1. I love the look of flame maple on a guitar.

     

    Unfortunately, the vast majority of nicely flamed ones I've tried out sucked as playable instruments. Many (though not all) of the high-$$$ guitars on the market lately seem to be built as collectible art rather than as instruments.

     

    Since I focus on playing, rather than on wall-hanging, I've never bought one with great figuring. I may someday, though, as I really would like to find one that combined both.....

  2. Originally posted by TOStudent

    These mods were done by Reinhold Bogner from Bogner.



    In that case, it may actually increase the value, but it still ain't a superlead anymore. It may well be relatively unique - a true 'one-off' tweaked by someone who really knows what he's doing.

    I have a Marshall and a Bogner XTC; I think they are completely different animals, but both are quite cool.

    Try it for yourself and see if you like it. It's likely to be a very nice piece, but it may or may not suit you.

  3. I bought my Bogner on a Friday, then took it into a $hitty bar gig Saturday.

    I've been carrying around my old Marshall into every scumpit bar I could find for 20 years. They sound just as good when I record with 'em if they've been in clubs as if they'd sat around gathering dust, so why not use 'em?

    Now I do have a couple of guitars that don't get out much....

  4. Originally posted by Sordid1



    Well I better not try one then because I don't have near the $3200 they bring to afford one
    :)
    We don't have a Bogner dealer within four hours of here so I won't be able to find out for a while. All the features and everything would be perfect for me. I am super happy with the JSX though so i'm not going to go looking anytime soon.



    The JSX is very cool - the other player in my band uses one, and it meshes very nicely with my Ecstasy. We both use Marshall cabinets, though....

  5. What brand of Tube? Sovtek

    What type of tube? 12AX7

    What Amps?Marshall 3203 and ADA MP-1

    Price paid?Don't remember, but it was too much

    Did you liked them or not?They sucked. Really harsh, no depth of tone

    Rebiased your amp or not?N/A - 12AX7

    Tone quality, style of music you play?Variety, leaning toward heavy rock

    How long did they last, days, months, years?about 20 minutes until I ripped them out and threw them in the trash

    Anything else you want to add.Will NEVER buy them again. Replaced w/ Groove Tubes; happier, but still trying various NOS options

  6. Originally posted by Sordid1

    It was through a Bogner 4x12. I didn't get a chance to really crank it up either so that's why i'm saying I didn't hate it but it left me flat. The clean was really nice though



    That would explain it. Try it through a Marshall 4x12 cranked to a real level, and you'll see why it brings the $$$. At low levels, it's not much different from other tube amps using preamp gain (still better than Marshall with diode clipping, though). At higher levels, you can begin to hear the influence of the power-amp section, which is where the Bogs really shine - particularly in Plexi mode. [Actually, the clean is probably the weakest channel at stage volume - the gain stages are that good!]

  7. Originally posted by Sordid1

    Well dissapointed might be a little strong but here is the stuff I thought I was going to love and didn't


    Most Gibsons

    Bogner Ecstacy, Uberschall (I liked the Uberschall but I expected to be blown away by it)

    Orange amps

    Krank Revolution

    Anything Ibanez




    Interesting - you have a JSX but didn't like the Bogner Ecstasy? What kind of cabinet was the Bog running through when you tried it?

  8. Originally posted by Jimi Ray Halen

    you can't go wrong with a Fender for cleans, a Marshall for classic rock, and a triple rec for new rock.

     

    Or you can just get a Bogner Ecstasy to cover the Marshall and Mesa.... :thu:

     

    The Uberschall is probably the next step up from the Diesel.

     

    BTW, if Line 6 is so much better than tubes, why haven't we seen any of the REALLY good players (Vai, Slash, Satriani, Petrucci, etc.) talk about how much they loved replacing their tube rigs with one for their last album or tour?????

  9. Originally posted by emodot

    Really? I've only used two cabs that had input/output jacks, and they were both series wired.



    Highly unlikely. Every cabinet I've ever seen with 2 or more jacks, with the exception of a few customized jobs, has been parallel wired.

  10. Originally posted by theAntihero


    Im not entirely sure, so im hoping that someone here knows what happens when you daisy chain cabs. Ive always been a combo and extention cab guy myself.



    If you just plug from one cabinet into the other without changing the internal wiring, it's parallel.

    Truthfully, you should really unplug the internal speakers if you want to use two external cabs......but you can get by running a 5.333 Ohm load on the 4 Ohm setting - you shouldn't run it on the 8 Ohm setting though, as this will overload the output tranny.

  11. Originally posted by sandfly

    I'm not ignoring any theory . I just asked a hypothetical ohms law question . Just trying to find out what you know

     

    OK, fair enough.

     

    Sure PF matters but were talking about 10 foot of 14g wire to hook up an amp and speaker cabinet .

     

    Sure. The reason I pushed back (probably a bit too aggressively) is that I've seen WAY too many people assume that an AC circuit is just like a DC circuit, then apply Ohm's law incorrectly, ignoring capacitive and inductive loads. Speakers ARE non-linear loads and are frequency dependent, so you need to assume in your sizing that you have a good bit more current than a DC analysis indicates. NEMA wiring codes are aimed at 60Hz, which is darn near DC, and a good bit lower than we use in guitar amps; Agreed, it's OK for a 10-foot cable, but if you were looking at a 50-footer to go to the other side of the stage with a 100W head....

     

    Personally, I use a double-the-current rule of thumb to cover the inductive portion, which leaves you at 13 ga or better; 14 ga would be marginal in this application, and you'd be burning up a bit more than 3 watts in the speaker wire itself. You may be happy with this, but I wouldn't recommend it - I'd say go for 12 ga.

     

    I also went to school for longer than just two years .

     

    OK, sorry if I came off as condescending. Again, I've heard way too many guys who had a little bit of knowledge make pronouncements that seemed valid, but were overly simplistic.

     

    I usually work in auto plant . You know hooking up things like Variable Frequency Drive ..........

     

    VFDs are neat, but they can be a real headache for us. It seems that we continually get calls saying our drives our not working properly, when in fact, it's a load issue. There are a lot of HVAC guys who don't really get the VFD programming, so they automatically assume that that's where the problem is....oh, well.

     

    Again, sorry if I came off as condescending - I think we see where we're both coming from.....

  12. OK, I've been trying to stay out of this one, but.....

     

    Back about 20 years ago, I bought a new Electra Westone Pantera. It's a really decent set-neck guitar, and I was able to get it for roughly half what Strats and LPs were going for at the time. The action and neck feel are great, and the tone is way better than average. Frankly, I thought at that time (I was about 17, IIRC) that it woudl have been foolish to buy a 'name' guitar, because I couldn't see the difference.

     

    Now it's 20 years later. I still play the guitar occasionally, and it's played literally over a thousand shows and numerous studio sessions.

     

    HOWEVER, it has required several complete rebuilds in that time period. The original electronics, tuners, bridge, saddles, etc., were the absolute cheapest possible, so they just didn't last very long. BTW, this is part of the reason you don't see many Panteras (or other Westones) still around - they didn't last very long.

     

    For the first 10-12 years, I tried to keep it 'stock' by replacing with the exact same hardware. I've given up, because I'm tired of replacing junk with junk. Now, I put good stuff in when the old stuff breaks or wears to the point of trouble - which is almost continuously. Also, I've ended up putting it about 3rd in line for use, because even though I love the way it plays and I have a lot of history with it, it just ain't reliable enough to take out.

     

    Here's my point: If I had put top-notch hardare and electronics on the guitar when I bought it, I would have spent about the same amount as buying a 'name guitar'.

     

    If you want something cheap to learn on for a few years, buy a knockoff and be prepared to sell or rebuild it 3-4 years in. If you want a pro instrument that you can use for a long time without having to continually upgrade and/or repair it, then go ahead and drop the coin to get a real pro instrument.

     

    There's a reason that LPs, American Strats, JEMs, Wolfgangs, etc., cost more - it's the quality of ALL the components.

  13. Originally posted by Panopticon

    [i think the store SteinbergerHack is talking about is Mike E's guitars. If you are on Murfreesboro Rd going away from Nashville and towards Murfreesboro, it will be on the right hand side. Its a good-sized red building with "GUITARS" the front.


    I havent been there in a long time, but Im pretty sure they only carry vintage stuff. Or, this store isnt the one he is talking about at all.:



    That's the place - it's back about a half-block from Murfreesboro Rd, so you can't see it until you turn down the street. And, yes, it's pretty much all used/vintage gear.

  14. Originally posted by sandfly

    Check out these links if you don't think he can use 14 gauge wire

     

    I didin't say he couldn't - I actually said it would be fine...go back and look at my first post in the thread.

     

    Since you think figuring out a 277 lighting load is so easy

     

    Uh, yeah. It's a heck of a lot easier than a breaker coordination study, arc-flash submittal, or a fault current analysis.

     

    Do you even know ohm's law ?

     

    Yup. And Faraday's and Maxwell's equations, which you seem to conveniently ignore.

     

    ....... How much current does a 60 watt light bulb connect to a 277 load use ?

     

    Dude, I'm a district service operations manager for an electrical equipment company. I've sent over 15 years in the electrical industry in field service, plant engineering, manufacturing, and R&D. I'm familiar with NEC, NEMA, IEC, UL, CE, and plenty of other regulatory requirements. I also know that if we designed products only to meet those limits and ignored physical reality, we would be bankrupt, because our products would fail in the real world far too often.

     

    BTW, you would never run a single 60W bulb off of a 277 line, BUT:

     

    You haven't given enough information to determine the current. Wattage is real power, but current draw is based on apparent power - VA. THe two are only equal when current and voltage have exactly the same harmonic content and are exactly in phase with each other. Assuming unity power facter, the current draw would be just over 1/5 A. However, since most 277 lighting loads are ballast driven (not incandescent), you would have to know the ballast's expected power factor to give a correct answer.

     

    Think power factor doesn't matter? Ever gone into a building where the original wiring had a half-sized neutral? Know what happens when the loads change over time to include lots of switching power supplies (and maybe some VFDs for the HVAC)? Ever seen a neutral conductor burn up, even though the load measured balanced? Know why it happens?

     

    You can't ignore phase and frequency - they DO make a difference in the current flow. They don't teach that very effectively in the 2-year electrician classes (you generally don't need to know it to wire houses & apartments), but it's real.

  15. Originally posted by Brown_AXS32

    My buddies and I are going to go down and spend a day in nashville. So, i was wondering if anyone has any idea's of some nice guitar shops to check out. I am particually interested in buying a telecaster if i find a good deal. Which stores have the best deals and where can i find them? Thanks



    I found that good deals are tough to find in Nashville, though there are some small mom-n-pop shops that have cool stuff.

    There's actually a little used shop down in the north side of Smyrna/LaVergne (south of Nashville) thathad some neatstuff. I don't remember the road names (it's been a few years since I lived there) but if you're headed south on Murfreesboro Rd from the airport, you go a few miles past the amphitheater on the right, then make a right just BEFORE the Sonic drive-in; it's on the right just before the railrod tracks. [Anyone else care to add to these directions?]

    However, you really need to go by Gruhn's downtown to drool over some incredible instruments. It's a pilgrimage every guitar player should make once in their lifetime.

×
×
  • Create New...