Hoot Owl

Good luck finding a mate, mate. 😉

Speaking of Dumble, I have the hots for one of these...someday. Leaning toward the Overdrive Reverb, at this point. Shop – Amplified Nation You can order them in various trims. I'm thinking black gator. But check out their custom jobs. Okay, what the hey, I'll put one below.

There are a lot of amps nowadays that have a Master control that is so good you don't need an attenuator. Friedman's are known for that, for example, but it depends on how much power tube saturation you like.

^ The bold. For sure! Every single connection, every cable, every stomp box, every little thing is yet another thing to go wrong. KISS, and I don't mean the band. And after playing for a while, I came to agree with others that simple sounds better. Guitar, cable, amp, cable, speaker. But if you play dirty, you need a killer amp to make that fly (to be pedal-less).

I hear you, it's nice to not have to worry about biasing. But for some people, they might want to be able to fine tune their bias. As you know, fixed bias amps can be adjusted hot to cold. But I have a MESA Lonestar, fixed bias, with no bias pot (which is why you are supposed to buy your tubes from MESA - they are all speced to work at one bias setting). Some guys don't like that. They say MESA biases their amps too cold, so they put in a pot so they can run the tubes warmer. The warmer you run them, the shorter their life, however.

Oh, him, Mr. Marshall Aussie. He's brilliant. For a tech, he can really play too. Cathode has slightly more character, IMO, especially at lower volumes. No need to rebias after replacing tubes too.

I don't know what your ohm calculation would be, but a lot of different options can be had with one of these: Z-Matcher 100w Impedance Matcher – Weber Speakers (tedweber.com) For more simple matching, I use one of these: Cab-Link - Radial Engineering Edit: I just noticed how old this thread is. Man, this place is dead (haven't I heard that before?). 😅

That's my new rig, stacked. I have a closed back ENGL 2x12 on the bottom, with a Vintage 30 and a WGS12L. On top I have a semi-open back MESA, with a WGS12C/S and a Weber Chicago. I'm still breaking them in, but so far, I like. I may sell my trusty Marshall 4x12, which is not something I ever expected to do. In the future, I hope to buy a Magnatone Panoramic Stereo and have two more cabs that I can spread out, 1x12's or 2x12's - not sure which yet.

Exactly. Good luck trying to figure out what he wants from the OP. 😉

...

"Three-power tube" doesn't make sense. Do you realize that?

If that's what you want, then I think you might want to check out a Friedman Little Sister, or a JEL-20 if you like the higher gain side of Marshall, both 20-watts.

I got just about everything crammed into one corner, and here it is.

I'm interested in a Helios, probably a 50-watter. But I recently caught wind of this. The touch sensitivity is supposed to be off the charts. Too bad they labelled the front panel like a first-grader. PHIL X SIGNATURE - Friedman Amplification

You should have told me that before I reached my tongue all the way in there to lick it.

No. It means you won't get arrested if you do. 😜

I layed in bed this morning wondering about that. And I'm still not sure what 18 means.

Well, I'll be darned. Handwritten in pencil it says C 1882. 'C' I assume to mean circa. Bingo.

Vintage Guitars Info - Martin collecting vintage martin guitars (guitarhq.com) Older 1800s Martins are a challange to date (since they don't have a serial number like 1898 and later Martins). A "New York" stamp does not immediately suggest that the Martin guitar is from the 1830s for example. To accurately date pre-1898 Martins you must be familiar design and ornamentation appointments and the changes that took place in each model throughout the 1800s. Most useful though is the stamp, but you can only use the stamp on the INSIDE of the body on it's center backstrip (visible through the soundhole) to date a guitar. And even then you can only date to a period (and not to an exact date). For example if it says on the center back strip, "C.F. Martin, New York", then the guitar is pre-1867. If it says, "C.F. Martin & Co., New York", it is between 1867 and 1897. Note 1860-1890s Martins have a date (year of manufacture) penciled on the underside of the top. Check with a mirror, looking just below the soundhole and between the braces. 1833-1840s: Paper label "Christian Frederick Martin" or "C.F. Martin". 1836: Some with paper label "Martin & Schatz". 1838: Some with paper label "C.F. Martin and Bruno". 1838: Martin manufacturing moved from New York to Nazareth PA. 1840s: Some with paper label "Martin & Coupa". 1833-1866: Stamp "C.F. Martin, New York" on inside backstrip. 1867-1897: Stamp "C.F. Martin & Co., New York" on incide center backstrip. Yep. No serial number means produced before 1898. Mine has "C.F. Martin & Co., New York" on the inside center backstrip, so its 1867-1897. It also has the same stamp on the neck joint inside the body. I haven't checked for the pencil mark on the underside of the top. This was easier than I thought. I should have known there'd be plenty of data on the internet. Hope y'all learned something here. Thanks for no help. 😉

Understanding Martin Model Designations | One Man's Guitar (onemanz.com) After reading this, now I'm confused. He may be talking about more-modern Martins. In the early 1900's 18 may have meant something different. Anyone? A 000-18 stands for Size “Triple Oh” in Style 18 (or as some older Martin factory workers put it, “Triple Naught”,) which includes mahogany back and sides, and a top of spruce, with dark bindings on the body, an unbound neck and white dots on the fingerboard, etc.

Well, guess what, I think I found it. Just like that. Identifying Martin Guitars (vintagemartin.com) Before 1898, when Martin models were consolidated, it was more common for a specific trim level to be available only in certain sizes. These combinations of size and trim level dated to about 1852, when the model names were first developed. At the time, the number of the trim level was derived from the price of the guitar. Thus, in 1852, a Style 2-27 was a size 2 Martin with a trim level costing $27. This can lead to some confusion, since a style 27 is fancier than a style 28. This is because a style 27 was offered as a size 2, while a style 28 was offered as a larger size 0, which was more expensive to build. So, I guess it's a size 2 guitar that cost $18. Technically designated as 2-18. There is no serial number on the guitar. I guess this one can only be dated to a range of years. Does that make sense? Google is my friend. 😁

What does the 18 mean? It appears to be a quality grade. This is an early 1900's parlor. Any other info appreciated as well. Edit: I forgot to mention, the image below is on a piece of paper affixed to the inside of the coffin case.

Amen, to that.

...