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Everything posted by CTGull

  1. Don't get me started on rebracing old Harmony's!!!! Last year I got hooked on Scott Baxendale's Harmony/Kay rebracing. I even found a couple of Harmony Sovereign H1260's, One minty and one a basket case. My intention was to use the basket case to learn how they come apart, then convert the minty one. But, my opinion has lowered on doing this. I think it's a lot of snake oil. I'm sure there's some improvement, but there's no way they sound like a vintage pre-war Martin. But that's his thing and he's making lots of money doing it. Maybe I'll get to it someday. I found a minty "Note" Old Kraftsman guitar that I did a neck reset on. It sounds as you'd expect for a small ladder braced guitar. Boxy. Wall hanger. I'll never buy another one. Depending on the scale length and fretboard width, hell yea remove that fretboard!! That would be cool!!
  2. I've been working on 2 customer neck resets/refrets/etc. http://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/152/customer-repair-1977-yamaha-335 http://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/160/customer-repair-1972-yamaha-500 And some of my personal stuff. I got bored doing neck resets and wanted to make some hybrid guitars based on vintage Yamaha FG's. http://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/130/hybrid-project-guitar-yamagull-1 http://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/150/guitar-project-yamabass
  3. I'm back!!!!! I've taken apart 14 vintage FG's. They've all been hide glue EXCEPT a 1977 FG-335, that was a tough one and looked to be epoxy. It's possible when the new series can out in 1977 they changed to epoxy, starting the rumors they all were built with epoxy. I've done a 12 string FG-230. It was a tough one because of the width of the fretboard. Same neck joint. I know of 3 or 4 people who've used my neck reset guide and have successfully done a neck reset on a vintage FG. http://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/18/vintage-yamaha-neck-reset-procedure The problem is the neck pocket isn't below the 15th fret, AND in most cases, they used too much glue and glued the face of the heel to the side of the guitar. Someplace the steam can't get to.
  4. WANTED – Data from your vintage Yamaha FG guitars. See the end of the post. I’ve been collecting data on vintage Yamaha FG acoustic guitars for a few years. This past May Yamaha deleted their Yamaha Guitar Archive web page, pushing me to start a forum to share the info that I’ve collected, including all the data from the Yamaha Guitar Archive. I’ve written other articles on: the history of the Yamaha FG 1966-1981 & FG-3XX series; vintage Yamaha truss rod adjustment procedure; vintage Yamaha neck reset procedure; replacement nuts & saddles; Yamaha FG weights; Japanese emperor date codes; Republic of China date codes; and I’m working on many others. My latest interest is decoding the mystery of the 6 & 7 digit serial numbers. It’s widely known that the 8 digit serial numbers start with the year as the first number. But the 6 & 7 digit numbers (located on the neck block) are just sequential numbers used by all the guitars they built, not just the FG’s. I’ve also found there are internal date codes that will reveal when the guitar was made. Serial Number located on the neck block. Date Code located on one of the interior sides of the guitar. I’ve started a list of guitars I’ve found (including 3 of mine) with the model number, the serial number, and the date code, which will allow the 6 & 7 digit serial numbers to be grouped into a range for each year, allowing any 6 or 7 digit serial number to be cross referenced to the year it was made. On YouTube I found a guy in Japan who’s posted short videos of many vintage FG guitars, with the year, model number, partial serial numbers, and in a most cases the internal date code. He’s obviously used the internal date codes to determine the years. I sent him a message asking if he saved all the information for these guitars, but I don’t know what will be lost in the language translation, of if he’ll even get back to me. With this, and other data I’ve been finding, I’ve discovered even though Yamaha says the first Red Label models imported in the US where in 1968, I’ve found many Red Label FG guitars made in 1967. I’m also tracking the Green Label FG’s, the earliest models (1966-67) only made in Japan, that share the same pool of serial numbers. I’m looking for the transition between the Green and Red labels. I’ve also found the Green Label FG’s have a different truss rod cover, with “Reinforced Neck” on it, very different than the one you normally see. That cover made it onto the earliest FG’s imported into the US, before changing to the familiar one. Truss Rod Cover on Green Label and very early Red Label FG's. Regular Truss rod Cover used on Red Label FG's. WANTED – Could you please add to this thread with the following data from your vintage Green and Red label Nippon Gakki FG guitars that have serial numbers less than 8 digits, located on the neck block? I have 100 serial numbers so far, but only 28 of them also have the internal date code. Model number. Label color. Serial number on neck block. Internal date code (I use flashlight and a cheap USB endoscope with my cell phone, or my cell phone camera if the strings are off.) This is very important to establish the date range of the serial numbers. If it has the old style “Reinforced Neck” truss rod cover. Any other information you’d like to share about the guitar. ON SECOND THOUGHT I might as well collect the early Taiwan numbers too. They have 2 sets of numbers, the 8 digit on the cross brace and a 7 digit on the neck block. The early 70's models have a T in front of it, the mid 70's -1 models dropped the T. Thank you for your assistance.
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