badpenguin

Gotta remember if your guitar is metric or standard when buying one. And took 3 weeks or so to get here.

These are metric.

Tune-O-Matic Style Electric Guitar Bridge Stop Bar Tailpiece Tremolo for LP | eBay

Oh, before I forget... it was like 67 bucks on feebay with shipping..

Just curious if the paint has started to peel yet?

Hey all, no, not a NGD yet. (That's coming once I de-gunkify it. Nasty.) But something I saw on feebay, thought about for a month, sold a wah pedal I forgot I had on feebay, and decided, "Ah, why not.". A Les Trem.... clone. Yep, a clone, since I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the 100+ bucks for a real one. My first dilemma was figuring out what guitar to use it on. Was pretty sure my L6S isn't metric, that was easy. And I figured I wanted to use a roller bridge with it, so I hunted thru my parts bin for a roller, until I saw my Peerless Retromatic P2 sitting there. "Hmm, that has a roller bridge,,,, and the Les Trem was a factory option... and it does need new strings... ok, found my lab rat!"

In all seriousness, it took LONGER to take it out of it's packaging, then it did to install it! Here's the steps it took: remove strings. Remove tail piece. Remove studs for said tail piece. Replace studs with the ones provided. Replace the trem on the studs. Restring and tune. I mean, anyone can do this. (Yes, even a drummer. With help.)

A LOT easier to string than a Bigsby. And less weight. As for adjustments... 2 allen screws to tighten the arm, and one to adjust tension. See? Drummer easy. I was concerned that it would change the tone or sustain. No difference as far as I can hear. Didn't change the feel of the guitar at all either. AND it's smooth. Not meant for Floyd dives of course, more of that Bigsby shimmer we all like. Tuning issues you ask? None from the trem. A little filing and graphite on the nut, since the strings got a bit hung up, but that's all the nut, not the trem. And there is none of that bend the D string up with a finger, have your A string fall out of tune. I couldn't be happier! Really surprised with the quality. In all seriousness, if you had a guitar with the quick release tail piece like an Ibanez, you could change tail pieces between sets, and still have time for a beer and some smoking substance.

Penguin gives it... 2 flippers up!

1 hour ago, DeepEnd said:

Yeah, I should've known better. On closer examination you're right. Apparently you're expected to power it with a phone charger? The input is rated 2a @ 5v so 10 Watts for best operation? AFAIK most chargers don't put out that much power so beyond "cheapo," just not a good idea.
I ended up buying one of these. With any luck he'll like it and if he doesn't it's returnable.

I think you made a good choice there.

You're right, it's probably on a circuit board. But NOT the big on/off switch I bet. I am sure there's room to drill and add a switch.

59 minutes ago, DeepEnd said:

It ships with a cord that goes from a 2 prong standard plug to a USB plug. That appears to be what powers it. Not something I've seen up to now but who knows? Right now it looks doable but I'm still open to suggestions.

The cable that it shows, and I assume comes with, is a 2 ended USB male.

As DM said, an extension of that switch would be the best answer without modifying the housing. But it's going to break. He knows it, I know it, you know it, it will break with the first time you hit it a bit too hard, or you tap it sideways.

Drill the box, add a push/push DPDT switch, and lose some % of the value of the pedal when you go to sell it.  It's not like modifying a 57 Paul with a Floyd.

A few shots of glue under the bridge, and a clamp. You'll have to find a deep C bridge clamp to fit. Not exactly cheap, but you can find one on eBay if you don't care for country of provenance. (ie: China, and the quality issues there.) As DM said, a bridge pin will NOT cause your action to jump. The lifting bridge is causing that. Once it's reglued, redo your truss rod,

Bridge pins are cheap on eBay.

I thought we had something along the same lines a few weeks ago.... Ah well.

Loudest I've had was a Duncan Convertible 100. Had the 4 or 5 tube plug ins. Fantastic sounding beast that was just too loud for human ears. That and it was just WAY too heavy to lug around town. Something around the 90 pound mark. Too stupid for a combo amp.

You can either write them and ask them, or check google play store, and see if there is an app.

Ok... first one I questio0n. Where is it getting it's power from? Looks like the USB port. Does it need a 2a 5 volt supply? Doesn't seem to come with one.

The second one, Ok, has a wall jack for power, but it's all 100 milli amp jacks. Some of my pedals go from 100 milli amp to 3 a. And the higher ones need the extra ampage or they don't work right.

These have a few more options.

 Power Supply For Guitar Effect Pedals 10 Isolated Outputs 9V 12V 18V | eBay

Caline CP-02 Multiple Outputs Power Supply for Guitar Effect Pedal Guitar 18V 1A | eBay

MOSKY DC-CORE 10 Outputs Guitar Effect Pedal Board Power Supply 9V 12V 18V R3P4 | eBay

Huh?

5 hours ago, daddymack said:

we were younger then....

Get off my lawn!!!!

I've used tung oil, and it's my preferred finish for necks and a natural body. HOWEVER... takes a while to cure enough to be handled, will need a LOT of coats, and will have to be done periodically if used on a neck. 

Basically, throw your hands up in the air and tell them "I'm done." You've done what you could to gig more, they don't seem to care, find yourself a band that WANTS to work and gig.

17 hours ago, daddymack said:

Funny that you led off with the JC-120. I agree, except for the size and weight ; the JC-50 sounds exactly the same* , can keep up with a jazz drummer, and weighs about 1/3 less [40 lbs vs 62 lbs] than the 120, and it is easier to tote. Sadly, they no longer make that model, or the JC-90, 77,...plus you can find used JC-50s for around $300, but a new 120 will run around $1200-1300.

In that same vein, the old Polytone 'Mini-Brute' was a great SS amp in the ancient days....the original ones, not the 'II' version.

 

 

*although you lose the full stereo effect with the 1x12 cab, the other lighter option is the JC-40, which is a 2x10. The drawback is the power level is just on the light side unless you work with a well controlled drummer. The 40 weighs about half of a 120[~34 vs ~62] and they run about $700 new.

I agree on the JC 50, but it wasn't "stereo." and to the lesser extent, the JC 40. ( Had a 40, sounded great until one side gave up the ghost, and I couldn't find a tech who could fix it.)

I had forgotten about the Polytones.... INCREDIBLE clean amps!! Simply stunning, with a bass that wasn't muddy, and a high end that wasn't shrill. A good find if you can locate one, but play it first. Some just don't dig it.

I am a HUGE Roland fan. (Owning 3 of their amps.) The JC120 probably the cleanest sounding amp on the planet. Takes pedals quite well, though it's distortion circuit leaves much to be desired.

Again with Roland, the modern Blues Cubes are quite good, and affordable. baby modeling amps

Carvin made some decent SS amps, all following in the Fender tone mode.

And like DM has said, the Yamaha THR series of amps. From 5 watts, to 100 watts, all types of tones can be achieved.

Anything Line 6.

Amps that come in a guitar package deal.

Line 6.

Early Crate amps.

Line 6.

60's/70's. Japanese transistor amps. Think ANYTHING Univox, with their "Stage whatnot" and you know what I mean.

Have I mentioned Line 6?

Fender FM 212R.  Probably the worst sounding modern amp known to man or beast. We had 2 of them at a store I managed. 6 years later, we still had 2 of them.

And of course, Line 6.

What DM said. BUT, if you are like me, where clean is the way to go, I can't stress enough the joys of the YAMAHA THR10. You wanna record? great, it's got USB. Need something perfect for bedroom playing, great, it's all there. AND 10 watts can be surprisingly loud. (Still not loud enough for a drummer.) And you can edit and save tones via the software. Only around 299 street.

Some people really love the BOSS KATANA 50 MKII. Around the 339 mark at Sweetwater.com.

2 hours ago, seven58 said:

I teach information systems and business marketing at a college. The topic of forums came up and I was telling my students about HC and decided to log in and show them. First time back in a while (years). I replied to a couple of posts and have checked back since to check on activity. There just doesn't seem to be any traffic. It really seems like that management tried and succeeded in running everyone off. 

Yeah, the management, the "upgrades" that tossed a lot of peoples posts and reviews into the trash bin, all worked against this place. The mods however... been working their collective a$$'s off, keeping it alive and in check. They don't get enough credit.

My go to pedal for echo/delay is my BOSS RV3, I use it mostly for the excellent verbage, but delay wise it can go from 32-2000ms. Found it on cl for 80 bucks. Oh, and it's stereo.

Or you can one of these. Donner 7 Modes Delay Effects Guitar Pedal Digital Analog Tape Mod Sweep Reverse 611851712143 | eBay Had one similar, worked fine, until it didn't.

1 hour ago, Barbp said:

Thank you, badpenguin! Clears that up nicely for me, I appreciate it.

Just curious about your User Name, by any chance were/are you associated with the Penguin Feather music stores in Northern Virginia?

Nope, just choose the name since penguins are evil. And add pictures!! We LOVE pictures here!!

17 hours ago, Barbp said:

I was recently given what I believe is an authentic Ovation guitar.  Have looked at the lists of serial numbers, but am a little confused ... my serial number is 018589.  But I don't know if I should count the 0 as part of the serial number when checking the lists (which would make it a 7-digit number) or if the proper serial number is just the 18589.

Kind of stupid question, but it's mine.

-- Barb

Yes, you count the zero as part of the number. "GENERALLY" the way the serial number works on import guitars, is the first 2 digits are the year, second 2, month, the rest production number of guitars built.

You are showing us a 6 digit number (With 0), which would indicate an ADAMAS from 1995.

here's my source: Date your Ovation / Datez votre Ovation (ovationtribute.com)

Considering he got a 339 2 months ago, I think the point is moot now. And he never showed pictures.