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Phil O'Keefe

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Phil O'Keefe last won the day on February 19

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About Phil O'Keefe

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  1. I don't know... it still looks pretty pointed to me, even in that second picture, although I do agree that it's possible that it's just an optical illusion.
  2. I was referring to the interior brace, as seen at the top of this picture: That's an interior part - it has nothing to do with the player's comfort.
  3. What else have you tried besides the Fuzz-Rite? I must have close to a dozen different types of fuzz boxes in my pedal collection, if not more, and I really don't have any one particular favorite - they're all useful for different sounds.
  4. Makes perfect sense - you should be able to use the MC2 as-is. Just plug both male ends into outputs 5 and 6 on your 1 Spot Pro CS6, then use a standard power cable to connect the female end of your MC2 into your Strymon. No soldering or modifications necessary - but you will need an additional male to male power cable (like the 1 Spot DC12, DC18, or DC22) along with the MC2. However, if you don't have one of those, you could use the Multi-Plug 5 cable instead. Just plug one of the male plugs of that into the female jack on the MC2, and another one of the male plugs on the Multi-Plug 5 cable into the Strymon. It would be kind of a waste of that 5 plug daisy chain cable, but it should work just fine. Again, please let me know how it works out for you, and if you have any problems or questions.
  5. Aah, I think I see now - that one was angled to accommodate the cutaway. So, what does the writing on the inside part of the soundboard say - is that your signature?
  6. Something I don't think was mentioned previously that makes a big difference in the brightness of any guitar is where you position your picking hand. Put it closer towards the bridge and the sound will get brighter - move it closer towards the soundhole / neck and the sound will get darker and warmer. That, along with different picks and strings, can make a big difference. No, I don't have the same model Taylor - FWIW, mine is a '94 510. I also have a GS Mini, a 150e 12 string, and a Baby Taylor. All of the previously techniques will work with any brighter sounding guitar to tame it a bit.
  7. FWIW, I am using the first ones you have pictured on both my '62 Custom Tele reissue (usually running 9's) and on my Duo Sonic (usually strung with 10's) and I've been happy with the intonation on both guitars - and I'm pretty picky about tuning and intonation. I think those brass saddles cost me ten bucks per set from RS Guitarworks (although they are now selling ones with a different design, and are charging $40 for a set of them). IMO they're a huge improvement over the stock uncompensated saddles. Having said that, the "tilting" ones look like a really good idea, since they would allow you to get the compensation dialed in exactly how you want / need it to be, regardless of the guitar or string gauges. I'll be interested in hearing what you think of them once you get a chance to install and test them out!
  8. Short answer? You can't do it just by rewiring a daisy chain cable - well, you CAN, but you'd need to feed that adapter cable with two separate power supplies (or a single brick-style power supply with separate isolated outputs) to double the current but keep the same voltage. Yes, the wiring is done in parallel. Wiring an adapter like this in series would double the voltage, which it sounds like you don't want / need. Yes, it matters which wires go where - most pedals are wired center-negative, so the center pin is negative, the outer sleeve on the plug is positive. But that's not true for ALL pedals and power supplies, so you need to check and make sure you know how your pedal and power supplies are wired before proceeding. The pedal, and power supplies need to be designed to work together, using the same polarity and voltage. Also, avoid using AC adapters if your pedal is designed for DC, and vise-versa! Assuming you're dealing with a standard 9V DC center-negative pedal and have a pair of standard 9V DC center-negative power supplies, you can do the following: If you have two 9V center-negative adapters with plugs on the ends, you can make a parallel-wired Y cable with a pair of female jacks at the dual ends of the Y (the "top") and a single plug at the "bottom" end of the Y. Plug the two power supplies into the jack ends, and connect the plug end of the Y into your pedal. Or you could avoid the soldering and just buy one of these instead and use it to connect your two power supplies to your pedal. If you're going to try to DIY, the center connectors of both jacks need to connect to the center connector of the plug at the other end of the Y, and the outer sleeves of both jacks need to be wired to the outer sleeve of the plug. I'd recommend using a continuity checker / DMM to double-check your wiring before trying to plug the adapter in, just to be safe. You don't want to risk damaging your pedal! If you have a "brick" style power supply that has multiple isolated output jacks, you can use a pair of 5.5mm x 2.1mm plugs at the "top" end of the Y, and a single 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug at the other ('bottom") end of the Y. Plug the two top ends of the Y into separate isolated output jacks on your power supply brick (if they're not isolated, you won't get any increase in current!) and the other end into your pedal. Or you could save yourself the soldering and just get one of these and use it (along with a standard 5.5mm x 2.1mm male to male cable) to connect the two isolated outputs from your brick-style power supply to your pedal. Again, for a DIY adapter, the sleeves at the top of the Y connect to the sleeve at the bottom end, and the center / tips at the top both connect to the tip at the bottom end of the Y. It's just standard parallel wiring, regardless of whether there are jacks or plugs at the top / bottom end of the Y. Hope this helps, and if any of this isn't clear, please let me know. PS Welcome to Harmony Central!
  9. You're right - and I've edited my post accordingly. But it does look a bit weird there, doesn't it?
  10. For the record, we have nothing to do with the people who join the site and bump really old threads. Zero. Nada. Zilch. For the past few months I personally have examined each and every new applicant who has signed up for the site before deciding whether or not to approve them. I check their IP addresses, look for known proxies, duplicates, and be-back alts, and check their email addresses, as well as use all the anti-spam tools that our latest software has. It takes a bit more time and effort than just letting the software auto-approve everyone and then deleting spam posts and banning the spammers, but I think it's worth the effort to help keep the amount of spam that everyone sees way down. I started doing that because of complaints about the amount of spam we were getting, and it's been largely successful. Because of that, I know where each new person is coming in from, and we get sign-ups and posts from literally all over the world. If you think we're creating "fake posters", or that I have the time to waste on such foolishness, well, with all due respect, you're just flat-out wrong about that. I suspect that many of those old threads are showing up in search engine search results, and people then sign up in order to respond to them, or to ask questions pertaining to them, and that many of them don't even realize they're responding to posts that are in many cases several years old - although I've noticed that some of the new posters do acknowledge that they know that they're responding to a really old thread or post. Like you, I sometimes get exasperated when I see someone asking "is your guitar still for sale?" or something similar when it's a seven year old thread that they're replying to... but I have no idea what people are going to want to talk about when they sign up. Unfortunately, our tools do have limits, and reading minds is still beyond our capabilities. 😉 But again, I certainly wouldn't create fake posters and posts - I know those kinds of posts are annoying to many of our members. If you want to start what you feel is a relevant thread topic, or respond to an older one, please feel free. I normally don't go digging for old threads, and almost never bump them - feel free to look at my profile and check - I tend to be more interested in, and start new threads, and I only respond to old ones when others bump them and ask a question that I feel I can help answer. However, if you think an old thread is relevant and you want to bump it and continue the discussion, I have no problem with that.
  11. I don't have one, and I wasn't sure if it included EQ for the vocal side of it or not but I took a look at the manual, and it appears that there is a filter option in the transducer menu (page 46 of the manual) - the Style Parameter can give you effects like "telephone" or "megaphone" voice sounds, and the Filter Parameter applies "an EQ filter that will make the Transducer sound “thinner” or more “muddy”, depending on the preset. Thinner filter settings sound more like a radio or walkietalkie".... but unfortunately, it doesn't appear to have any type of user-adjustable shelving or parametric style EQ for the vocal processing. BTW, welcome to Harmony Central!
  12. It's not going to hurt the amp... but it's probably not going to sound all that great either.
  13. The one picture that makes me suspicious is this one... That transition from the headstock to the neck looks really weird. Maybe it's just the angle, but I don't think I've ever seen a real GIbson where that area is so sharp and pointed.
  14. Do you have the codes from the pots? I can't see them clearly enough and the angle's not good for seeing the sides of them...
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