gardo

14 hours ago, AndrewOfTheForest said:

I bought a Washburn hollow-body electric back in the 90's from a pawn shop.  There's no serial number or model number that's obvious.  Looking inside, there are a couple of east asian characters penciled onto the back (I'm guessing Japanese) along with what *looks* like "HB 75" (which doesn't correlate to any guitar I can find online).  The metal tailpiece seems pretty rare/unique, and the only example I can find is this video of what is identified as a J-10 (but with different coloration): 

Here is a photo of my guitar:

 

 

Can anyone shed some light on this instrument???

Thanks!

Andrew

If you can get a picture of the Asian writing my wife can read it . Japanese and Chinese characters are the same. 

The best largely depends on your amp and style of music? yn other words where are you musically and where do you want to go 

Changiing the pots gave a great result, probably made them a little easier to pull through as well. I haven’t seen this product in a while and have been just admiring the pictures. So ,yeah I love it

6 hours ago, daddymack said:

And you could use a slide!

Now you’re talking 

2 hours ago, DeepEnd said:

The praise band plays a song occasionally that involves a constant C chord on the verses. I usually play it in open C so I can play rhythm and melody at the same time. Sunday, the remaining songs were in either Bb or F. I figured I could tune to open Bb and use a capo for C. From what I can tell, there isn't a standard open Bb tuning but I settled on F Bb D F Bb F. I thought it worked well, although if there's a next time I might drop the 1st string to D instead of tuning up. I like the sound with the 6th string tuned to F though. Anyone use open tunings regularly? If you use open Bb, how do you tune or what tuning would you use?

I’ve tried some open tunings but just D,E E7 and G.  Interesting idea , I’ll follow to see what is suggested 

Another one came up this morning that looked to be in good shape for $50 more but I passed on that one because of the color. 

2 minutes ago, daddymack said:

I would ask the seller for more detailed pics... is that a set neck?

IMHO I would pass on a guitar of that 'level' with a repair like that...a good repair would cost more than $250....so how good a job would they have done?

Yes, a set neck. When they were new I bought one and loved it but life happens. I always regretted selling it but  am not eager to rush into one that I will regret buying. This one is at a Guitar Center in New Jersey.They list the condition as good, meaning completely functional but may have some nicks and scratches ect.  I can have it shipped to a local store and decline the purchase if it’s not what I expected but I still pay shipping. 
Without knowing more history I’ll have to pass .

Couldn’t they at least remove the tuners and spray the back of the headstock?

The face is not so impressive  either.

I really like these but can’t quite go for this one even at $250.   What do you think?

 Its a 2 hour drive to see in person 

5 hours ago, Ancient Mariner said:

Does that mean I have to work with the Nazis now, and when the war is over I'll be shot?

Hey, at least you know I'm not a bot or a scammer. 😄

Not really trying to talk about anything. I picked up a strat for the first time in weeks last night. The band had a gig booked for last weekend, but it got re-scheduled for October, and there's nothing else on the horizon. At some stage I'm going to have to start selling kit that's surplus to requirements.

Is a collaborator like a conspirator? 
Not much to add but I like and respond to help you get to the next level. 

Good deal and I’m sure it sounds and plays great.   …… but could you please paint it . Oh my eyes

I don’t play enough open strings for it to make a difference 

On 2/16/2024 at 8:40 PM, Paul and the 7.5 said:

I truly believe for me anyway, long thin fingers work the best with a tight radius, 7.5. My fingers are always bent in a round inward position. Does anyone else feel the same way about this. Just curious. Cheers everyone!

My long fingers don’t like 71/2 , 91/2 and 12 are the most comfortable . 
Perhaps it’s just whatever a person is accustomed to 

1 hour ago, daddymack said:

Whippersnalpper....😉

I’d love to be 62 again except that would mean I would still working full time 

10 hours ago, 1001gear said:

I think the Rondo strats and teles were all sub 200 though. Are Squires the best cheap Fenders?

That’s debatable but the price increase is clear, $430 for a classic vibe tee 

1 hour ago, 1001gear said:

Just checked Rondo and the Pauls are 6 hunnerd!1!1

and fah--aahhk

I saw that too, but they do have some  lookers. Have you checked the price of a Squire lately? They’re all crazy 

Congratulations on a cool guitar. That not playing it until Christmas part would be extremely difficult for me..

pics?

On 12/27/2023 at 2:19 PM, Ancient Mariner said:

Is that one of those things that makes weird electronic fart noises? TBH I've never found a use for such things and I don't really know how you would use one in a gig.

I have no idea what a lo fi  pedal even is.

That’s a clean looking tremolo setup 

4 hours ago, u6crash said:

The original had rubber spacers under the pickups, so I'm kind of emulating that here. Also, the only #2 screws I could source locally, have a round head. Without the black spacer, the nickel trim has a weird gap as it won't sit flush (which is why you see the divots made with the forstner in any earlier post). Tried it without and it looked fine straight on, but noticable weird gap from many other angles.

I could have sketched out more pickguards (and really, that's a thing I can replace any time, but I'm going with a design pretty close to the original.

This is a sneak peek. I've seen license plates used on guitars before. Sometimes I like it, sometimes I hate it. I'm going to do something a little different with this one, so reserve judgement until you sit in in the guitar. Here the back has been coated and leveled with clear epoxy. If it just looks awful, I'll do something more traditional.

I’ll wait to see the finished pickgaurd.
They can really be made from anything., I once used a piece of retro style Formica countertop to make one for a Tele. It looked wild but I just didn’t like the feel of it under my finger tips and went with traditional plastic. 
You never know until you try

1 hour ago, u6crash said:

Thank you! I'm starting to get excited. You have no idea how many false starts I've had in the last 20 years. My one success was assembling a Carving bass kit (I wish they still made kits; those were a great value).

Second attempt with black trim rings.

This one looks successful. I earlier made the mistake.of not lining them up when I drilled the pilot holes through the plastic. Both were parts I custom ordered through Send Cut Send, and I think I omitted the holes in the plastic because I thought they might have to bend substantially, thus changing the distance between centers.

Not sure how much more I'll get done today. Should have mowed the lawn. Should probably eat something.

I don't have to make a pickguard, but I'm going to.

Pickgaurd ? It will be interesting to see what shapes you come up with. Following this thread is great 

44 minutes ago, u6crash said:

I'm getting impatient and sloppy. Deep breaths....

Paper template in place for setting screw holes for pickups.

Shown with pickups in place. I used a pen and an awl to make the holes. It's clear by eye that the original pickup routs were not aligned with anything, because they really didn't have to be, but I didn't want to trust the alignment of the original screw holes, either.

Eight tiny holes in place.

The holes in the corners of the cavity are to allow for the round head of the screws holding the pickups to the face of the body. They aren't perfect, but they don't have to be. These are the black trim pieces that still have the protective paper on them.

Tiny failure here. I tried to drill the holes in the black plastic large enough that they didn't need to be a perfect fit. You can see the alignment is a little off with the nickel trim pieces. I have some thoughts on how to fix it, and if all else fails I have four spare black plastic trim pieces. And I could go without them if I really wanted to.

Some pre-wiring done. I have dry fitted every piece so it should all fit. I have pulled parts through with string alone, but I think I'll try tubing and string so that the strings don't get tangled.

Acquired gold paint pen. Will be practicing my penmanship. The pen has a bit of a chisel tip, which I didn't realize when I bought it. Should be fine.

Overall I would say it’s outstanding. Sure there may be something you’re not quite satisfied with but you are probably the toughest critic. I think it’s great 

8 hours ago, u6crash said:

That's probably a function of there being some amount of wiggle room and them not being perfectly straight when I took the picture. When I did the punching for the awl, everything was lined up pretty well. If the absolute worst happens, I already have a dowel on hand to plug and redrill a hole. 

One thing I haven't figured out/decided on, is how far the bushings should push in with just hand held force. There was no point in pushing them all the way in at this point if I had to push them out again, but I wonder how wide I should ream those holes prior to final installation.

About to go out to the garage and sand a little more. Might get as far as painting the headstock black today.

Glad to hear the alignment is good. You’ve done such a great job As I should have known the holes ‘were right. I recently put 10mm tuner bushings in a Squier . They pressed in completely with moderate thumb pressure..  I agree that there is no need to press them completely until it’s finished.

Keep the updates coming. I look forward to them

I like the shape,it really turned out well.

The B tuner alignment looks to be a bit of a challenge, do you have any ideas ?  
If that’s the way it fits the screws won’t go in very easily. I would probably consider using a small file or a dremel and match the openings enough to get the screws in

There is always a way to make it work.

2 hours ago, ksl said:

Here lies the culprit.... Being a first-time Mogami user, I wasn't aware of this extra clear shielding that makes yà or breaks yà!!  thnx again~

I believe that cable was guaranteed for life.. I inadvertently broke the end off one. I gave it to a sales person at GC with no receipt and they took one look and gave me a new one no questions asked.  
Don’t repair a .Mogami  cable in the future 

22 hours ago, daddymack said:

Well...I wasn't going to get his hopes up...even in my first reply. Always better to tell it like it is.

Of course, he has not been back since he posted....so...

And to be fair, the guitar may play like butter...who knows? Maybe his grandfather had work/mods done to it...one nevuh know, do one?

Original Deans [the real Zelinsky era] are fabulous instruments, and I have read some positive things about his new bolt-on T and S style guitars with the 'z-glide' [or whatever they call the patterning on the back of the] neck.  Have not tried one, though.

As BP pointed out , it was all about getting his guitar seen