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niceguy

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  1. I'd say this sounds like a pretty good deal if you like the amp. Thanks! Gonna demo it this weekend and will report back. I really hope it's in as good condition as the seller says! Anything I should look out for? This will be the first time I'm buying a used tube amp. I figure I'll play all channels, spin the knobs to check for dirty pots, etc etc.
  2. alrighty, talked it down to $325. seems to be a pretty good deal---supposedly it's "barely used." will check it out in person and demo it, but overall, good deal, right?
  3. Hm, thanks for all the replies. You've given me quite a bit to think over! Foremost, though, I won't buy the amp unless I can talk it down to $350. I'd noticed the Bogner Alchemist sale earlier, but that got me thinking: there's likely a reason why these amps are being blown out. I want to buy an amp which I'll use forever, not a flavor of the week which I trade out later. Ideally, I'd like to have a Fender combo for cleans, a Mesa of some sort, and a Vox of some sort.
  4. Is it? Local seller, not a shop. Also, is there anything I should look out for when it comes to the Hot Rod Deluxe? It seems that the newer models are made in USA while the older ones are made in Mexico; correct?
  5. I have a LP Traditional Pro. It's non-chambered. Sounds fan-{censored}ing-tastic. I've never played a chambered LP. So, I'm no use to you
  6. 1-I like the Studio because it really does have a big and thick sound which is noticeable above other designs. I could even notice it with the stock pickups which I had to have for a while to determine that they weren't exactly what I wanted (possibly because that sound was so dense and had a character that I wasn't very familiar with). 2-I like them because they don't have neck bindings. That is the area that Gibson is the sloppiest with and most every time I read a complaint about Gibson Quality Control issues, that is the only thing that I think of because most everything else is done right almost all of the time IMO. 3-I also really appreciate that it has the same components as other Les Pauls but is not necessarily flashy. I like the GO and I don't care too much for the SHOW. 4-The '59 neck is great for me. I like lots of different necks but when you are holding a Studio neck ('59 neck) then you know you are holding onto something. They aren't great for small hands but you can't tell me that it doesn't add to the tone when your strings are running up a nice thick neck instead of a little skinny neck. 5-It is nice to have a great guitar like a Gibson Les Paul without having to spend multiple thousands of dollars. very well put! I'm seriously looking into Studios now. I kinda like the workhorse, non-flashy appeal.
  7. ^ sweet guitars! mind telling why the studio is your fav guitar of all?
  8. cool! just wondering how overall build quality goes with these guitars. most importantly---since there's no neck binding, are the fret ends finished nicely?
  9. Lots of variations on the Studio, from what I see on musician's fiend and other sites. Anyone have direct experience with these? Let's see some pics! I like how some of these special studio models have 60s necks.
  10. Shouldn't he sell it all and donate the proceeds to the poor or something?
  11. I own both---MIM strat, MIA tele. They are my only electric guitars, and I gig frequently. The neck finish, edges, and frets are much better on the MIA. I love the glossed fretboard of the MIA, as well. I swapped out pickups on both guitars, so no comment on electronics. But, even with better pickups, the MIM sounds a bit *lifeless* when amplified to band levels. The MIA is 3 pieces of alder, the MIM is easily 7+ pieces. MIA came with an incredible case; MIM did not. So, the neck is the most obvious advantage to the MIA, IMO. Body wood, too---I can hear a difference.
  12. HEY BRO The DAW's track volume doesn't have anything to do with recording. Only the input gain is important. thanks! I actually did figure this out after trial and error It seems that most important thing is to adjust the input gain on my audio interface so that there is NO clipping. Can anyone maybe provide a screenshot which shows what the waveforms should look like when properly set up?
  13. I haven't done even a small orchestral ensemble since the analog era (and didn't have deep experience at all) but I'd say in general that the conductor tends to have a rough idea of when the crescendi are (is that pluralization too pretentious? ) He may not always nail which one will hit the gear hardest but he can generally tell you where the loud parts are and even run through a few of them in order to drill in your max level. In the old days, of course, people rode faders, since the dynamic range was such a challenge for tape machines and disk cutters. There are a handful of RE's specializing in classical over at Gearslutz, actually, and they're a pretty clued in lot, in my experience. One thing that can't be overemphasized in general, though, is this notion of properly optimizing your analog chain gain structure. This is probably one of the most important facts I've learned from you guys!
  14. The idea is to maintain your standard analog line levels throughout the signal chain. Analog gear (mics, pres, interfaces) have a standard expected operating line level generally calibrated such that a steady signal at 0VU on an analog meter would come at around-15dBFS on a digital meter. Maintaining this level throughout the chain leaves plenty of headroom (15dB) and you're not pushing the analog electronics (that come before the digital conversion) too hard (and therefore keeping the signal clean going in!) So send signals into your DAW so they ride at an AVERAGE (not peak) of about -15dBFS and you'll be fine... the concept of "more audio data" (ie, using more bits) has always been grossly misunderstood and overstated anyways - and at 24-bit, it's a complete non-issue. huge help---thanks! so, I set up my gear and put a condenser in front of my guitar amp. Then, I adjusted the track volume on my DAW to be at -15dB. Then, I adjusted the input gain on my interface so that the reading on the DAW was about midway... still green, never red. This is correct, yes?
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