daddymack

original price....

I doubt the 'C' was for 'circa'. More likely a builder or final inspector's mark.

hmmm...okay, yeah, you are on your own on that. That guitar, used, is worth at best, what? €275 [$300]? A repair for those dings by a qualified repairman will run you about half the value. If you brought that to me, I would tell you it was not worth the cost. and people wonder why I have mainly black guitars....[but that is not the reason]😉 Okay, well, I've given you the guidelines, mon ami...all I can say is be patient, think every step through, take your time and be willing to settle for 'less than perfect'.[moins de parfait]..eh, bien, bon chance! And above all...be more careful with your gear!

Well, yes, all the cracked finish has to be removed. Typically I use a fine tip dental tool to remove the loose material, examine the amount of damage/compression to the wood, then sand it clean with 600 grit. You may not have 'lost' much wood, but until you get all the old damaged finish chips and 'splinters' off, you won't be able to tell. Before we go too far...what kind of guitar is it [make/model] and how experienced are you with this kind of repair? I ask for several reasons...one being if this is an expensive ax, I suggest you take it to a qualified repair tech. The other is that some of what I am going to suggest is fairly 'pains-taking' and requires time, skill and patience. To do a proper repair for that kind of damage is not as simple you may assume; you will need to match the stain after sanding, on the second damage/back edge [that is the much simpler one], but on the first damage, near the output jack, you may have damaged the body wood, binding, and the top, and that is a 'multi-stain' fix, requiring steady hands, detailed masking, and which, unless done properly, will look like $#!+. [resembler merdre] Once all that touch-up is done and cured, the final finish should be clear polyurethane, applied lightly, sanded smooth, applied, sanded...repeat until it looks good. There are other techniques, but considering the size and areas of the dings, this is, IMHO, the more prudent approach. Some owners will opt to leave it be and accept it as part of the 'mojo' they are infusing into their guitar.

strip, sand, check for wood and/or binding damage, refin. I'm not even going to ask how you got those dings.... btw, love the moniker!

who were you in the halcyon days?

It does sound like you dodged a nasty bullet on the bridge separation, so yeah, a good sanding [of both contact surfaces, obviously] would be in order. If you are going to go ahead with the bridge re-glue, leave the clamps on longer than usual, just to be sure it is fully cured.. Hard water is the bane of humidifiers, AC units, shower heads, faucets....I am studying up on putting a 'whole-house filtration system' in Casa Mack this year.

pics and a serial number would be extremely helpful Several companies built guitars for Sears under the Silvertone logo.

We never say people are stupid if they come to get advice before they try something! I will say, though, you are going to be throwing away a lot of money 'hogging out' the body like that. Better to make the two sides separately from smaller pieces of wood. If you have never built or repaired acoustic instruments, it might be better to follow Panhandler's suggestion and learn on a kit build first. Tooling and material costs will typically out-price just buying a good acoustic...but if you are determined, feel free to come here and bounce ideas. BTW, we have a number of luthiers/builders here, and several active build threads from which you may garner some advantageous insight, tricks and tooling shortcuts.

I see you are in the UK, so it may not be helpful for us Yanks to rattle off brand names that are not easily accessible. I would likely start with Yamaha, since they make good guitars at reasonable prices across a broad range of prices, and are available all over the world. Takamine would be another brand to look at, and although not common here, LAG makes some decent kit in that price range. Guild and Epiphone are still in business, too. Ibanez, Recording King, Ovation....just 'spitballing' brands that may be available [maybe through Thomann?] on your side of the pond. Do you need to plug yours in? I'm assuming, based on your opening sentence, that acoustic/electric is not critical.

big digital shoes to fill....

Congrats! Happy NGD! I would suggest a pick-up upgrade, since Squier p-ups are typically low end versions of their Fender parents. JazzMaster p-ups are also kind of 'unique' sounding, and although they physically resemble P90s, they are a different critter altogether. Fralin, Lollar, SD and even Fender offer 'replacement' versions of the JazzMaster pickup...most cost close to about half what your guitar probably cost.... !2 string guitars are kind of a limited application, particularly electrics*. If you cover the Byrds, or Tom Petty...then yeah, gotta have it... *I owned a '63 Fender XII for a while in the early 70s and then had the use of an almost identical one in the late 80s. I got back into 12 strings over the past three years, and now have a Danelectro and a Martin. There is a sonic beauty to them that is undeniable, but there is a definite but limited 'space' for them in a band mix, not to be exceeded, IMHO.

Older Fender acoustics are hit and miss...which is why you can get that one for $90. I would absolutely go with the Yamaha. That model has a solid spruce top and nato sides, and frankly, for what they charge new [~$230] there is really no comparison. That guitar will serve you well for many years, and I will suggest that when you decide to 'upgrade', you keep it regardless of what you get next.

Sorry about the setback, that sucks! IIRC, this is a bolt-in neck, not glued, so a reset is not such a major undertaking. Winter is a terrible time to do work/repairs involving glue joints....even if you live somewhere like here, where the humidity is fairly stable*. If you don't have good humidity and temperature control, then yes, I would wait...But it seems I recall you have a humidifier and a hygrometer for your workroom.... so you are the judge of suitability. *typical humidity here is about 60%, except when the Santa Anas blow, then it drops drastically, and static electricity is everywhere; plus, outdoors, the temperature can swing 25-30F over the course of a day [it was 38F this morning at 5:30 AM, it should hit ~65 this afternoon].

Valuations are based largely on condition, so considering the noted damage from your post...I would guess not very much. Damage and repairs kill values, no matter how good the instrument sounds. In pristine condition, maybe US$500-600 w/HSC. [Yours is the cedar top, correct?] In the condition you have described? Maybe US$200-250. w/hsc...if you could find a buyer.

'gold back' 10" but 40w or cream back.

sounds like it is working correctly....j/k warranty?

please contact me regarding this breach!

Because...tradition....go for it, guys.

about CDN170-200 [US$130-150]...w/ case. Condition not a huge factor...but does matter.

Unfortunately, r_clockberg has not been here in over 2 years. So we may never know how this turned out.

Sonuus has their own support forum just for the i2M...have you tried asking over there? https://www.sonuus.com/forum/

The FG 450 was manufactured for a very long period, from the early 1970s well into the 1990s serial number lookup: https://www.yamaha.com/yamahaguitars/AcousticGuitarSerialNumberSystems.pdf Value is based on condition, so no one can tell you what is worth without a thorough examination. You can see that the prices are pretty varied here Those examples range pretty wide from over $600 to under $300...and most of them claim to be 'good' condition.

Did have one [I don't even remember who made it or what it was called...great graphics though] briefly that I won in an online contest several years ago, but meh, for my purposes it was never going to find a place on my sidegig pedalboard. I do find it somewhat amusing that the 'lo-fi' pedals I've seen are covered in control knobs....to me, that almost makes it its own instrument.... https://delicious-audio.com/best-lofi-guitar-pedals-analog-digital-tape-vinyl/

That ain't right!