daddymack

On 4/10/2024 at 12:48 PM, mekka said:

😃 so i have read the responses about diy guitar strings so this is a serious question not everyone can always afford strings just saying so does fishing like work I mean on my acoustic Rogue I have a homemade bridge a homemade pin and another cheaper one I had another homemade part so help me out peeps please ty

12 hours ago, DeepEnd said:

A great deal is going to depend on what you mean by "budget." Epiphone makes their own model of the ES335 called--wait for it--the ES335. It sells for around $600. It won't have P90s but it'll be pretty much as close as you can get to a "real" ES335. There's also the Epiphone Dot but I don't think it's a current model so you'd need to find a used one. As mentioned, Ibanez is always a good option. Never played a Gretsch and my only experience with Guild is their acoustics. Best of luck with the search.

The Epi dot is their 'bottom feeder'. The Epiphone Sheraton is actually the better 335 style, not their ES335. I would put a Sheraton up against the Guild Starfire I any day of the week.

3 hours ago, Lewis77 said:

Which of the those 2 T models do you rate more? And would you rate both more so than the guild starfire IV?

Couldn't tell ya...never played an Eastman. I can only say that the 486 appears to be the higher end model than the 386

For what you would pay for a Starfire IV, though, I would go for the Eastman T486.

On 4/15/2024 at 6:09 AM, nethanpaul said:

There is a connection between finger length and preferred neck radius! Longer fingers can conform to a curved fretboard more easily, making a tighter radius (7.5") feel more comfortable for you. This allows for a more natural finger placement and easier fretting.

However, this is not a universal experience. Some players with long fingers may prefer a flatter neck for faster playing styles. Ultimately, the best way to find your preference is to try out guitars with different neck radii and see what feels most comfortable for you.

you keep saying this...how many guitars do you own? do they all have the same radius....?

2 hours ago, Lewis77 said:

Okay. My new guitar journey has me looking at a Guild starfire IV.

But Eastman guitars have caught my eye. What's the best 355 style double c Eastman for around or close to 1000?

define 'best'....

a thousand dollars or euros or pounds?

your best shot:

[£1000] T486 or T386....

[$ or €] on the used market.

On 4/12/2024 at 11:54 AM, Lewis77 said:

I'm flickering between an epi casino & a Guild starfire 1 (maybe an IV although that's more expensive)

 

However, went to try a couple of starfires today. One had fret buzz and the other had high action & maybe a warp in the neck? Maybe? Might just of needed a truss rod altercation? But it turned me off.

 

It was the green one with the Bigby. But it's a bonnie guitar.

 

It's for pure personal use. Possibly some home recording. 

Pretty much any instrument you buy will need a 'set-up'...high action , fret buzz...all easily remedied, but most stores just put the factory set guitar on a hook....

I suppose nethan could try contacting the Custom Shop people there and ask, but I don't think they have offered rewinds for decades.

13 hours ago, Misha said:

...

I don't even know if I am allowed to write about this here. If I am not, I'm sorry. If you ever feel bad, depressed, or simply need to talk, please ask for help!

- Canada: 9-8-8

- USA or other countries: https://findahelpline.com/

ce n'est pas un probème, mon amie... I'm okay with it....

I doubt the other mods or admins will protest.

Price no problem?

My first choice: Lindy!

Last I heard, Lollar was not taking any new rewind orders. You could ask, though.

So for just home use, of the 2, I think I would go with the Casino, because the hollow body's acoustic sound, when playing at low levels, creates a secondary auditory environment.

Ouch!!!

Sorry to see that...I don't know what that 'thing' is...I only fix guitars...I don't make them.

I'm guessing it is a purfling groove cutter, so I would think there should be blades or an adjunct knife...looking at this online...yep....obviously this gets done often enough that they sell the tools [I may buy a set, just in case].

What do you have in there now? It looks like a finishing nail....?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CR17R58Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0CR17R58Q&pd_rd_w=8uDU0&content-id=amzn1.sym.0d1092dc-81bb-493f-8769-d5c802257e94&pf_rd_p=0d1092dc-81bb-493f-8769-d5c802257e94&pf_rd_r=GHE7ZKTWPAEVS9KY9MRE&pd_rd_wg=aetw0&pd_rd_r=c49eaf15-65c0-408d-bc4d-47a27666a718&s=musical-instruments&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy

Do you have one of these?

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-violins/purflingsoundhole-router-guide/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=|+GOO+|+SHOP+|+NBR+|+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUq35l95nXTUQeNqI9g51zMWSD4Dx6eqyFGs3j1nA1nMU53TAYqJK3BoCyI4QAvD_BwE

3 hours ago, gardo said:

The best largely depends on your amp and style of music? yn other words where are you musically and where do you want to go 

Actually, I find the 335 style guitar is extremely versatile, and as capable as most guitars...okay, sure, it is no superstrat with a floyd.... but for general rock, blues, country, R&B, ska, zydeco, jazz, fusion...it has its place at the table.

15 hours ago, Lewis77 said:

Presently, I'm looking at: An Epi Casino (with Pro p90s). A Guild firestar 1.   Gretch G2622T

Or any other suggestions?

Can send yourself mental going round in circles. Was originally just going to go for the casino but started getting sidetracked.

The Guild interests me as does the D'ANGELICO DC Excel? 

Anyways...

Budget is a good starting point. What are you wanting to spend?

New, or used?

Are you after a platform for mods, or a performance tool?

Any of the above mentioned instruments fit in the general description.

Glarry and Firefly make decent 335 body knockoffs that, with some soldering skills and patience, can be upgraded [pots, bridge, tuners, p-ups] to very good players.

I also am a fan of the D'Angelico Premier DC models which frequently go on sale as they reconfigure the design. The DC Excel gets pricey [US$2000].

The Eastwood Classic 6 is also an interesting option.

I also like the Epi Sheraton...the Epi 'Dot' can be hit or miss quality-wise.

Harley Benton, of course, has some budget models as well.

11 hours ago, DeepEnd said:

You might lose one but it should be fairly difficult to break a brass bridge pin. BTW, put me in the column that says bridge pins don't have that much effect on tone. YMMV.

And they are easily replaced...

good luck!

On 4/7/2024 at 5:52 AM, olimpio Trombetta said:

hello is there onother way other then the paper lable to finnd a serial number of my GUITAR???

did you look at the back of the headstock?

Welcome to HC....

FYI we use private messages for 'off-board' discussions' None here will email you once you are verified.

I have only seen one Lyle which belonged to a bandmate in the early '70s....sort of a Coronado copy. I'm sure you know there were a number of instruments identical to Lyles under different names. Lyles were imported by the L.D. Heater Co.  in Oregon from the 50's to the late 70's.

serial number info: http://www.matsumoku.org/cm_models/serial-no-dating-info/

Please do post a pic or two....

Have you checked at the Mandolin Cafe?

Dumpster diving this week, eh? This is a 2 year old thread...but...frankly, anyone who believes that their Mesa is biased too cold needs to buy a Dumble.

Hoot...you are a year and a half late entering into this...and he never came back after I tried to explain the basics to him....

13 hours ago, frk said:

I have a Aria pro ii rs inazuma-v, it needs a 3 way switch.  What is a good replacement for this switch? I tried fender, and others but they don't fit at all.

Pic would help...please show us the old switch

1) get a longer set screw and don't try to mend the split shaft.

2) yay!

3) the pickguard is just a bit too large by .5-.75 width, and sits too high [IMHO] but it does bring the headstock 'home'

4)I'm just trying to find the bridge! Has anybody seen the bridge? Please! (Have you seen the bridge?) I ain't seen the bridge! (Where's that confounded bridge?)

the other advantage to the jack plate is you don't need an output jack tightener. Just a screw driver and pliers/wrench. Nothing worse on a gig than having an intermittent signal due to a loose jack!

I have two...one for the shop,

and a different one in the gig-kit

u6, I was thinking about this a while back, and I am glad to see  you are back on it.

Typically I use fishing line and load the pots/switch through the f-hole. Other people use surgical tubing. I know that Coros have weird f-holes [size and center point*], so the parts won't go in that way?

As to the jack...yes, the jack plate is the proper solution. One of the more common repairs I've done is retrieving 'sucked in' jacks and adding a jack plate.

*the classic design is centered at the bridge...not your fault these were not designed by luthiers.

6 hours ago, Ancient Mariner said:

I play slide in open E. I've tried a couple of other variations, but E just works for the simple stuff I want to do. Never really been a fan of wild open tunings.

My fave is still open G, both on guitar and on lap.... on guitar, I can still partial chord. Must be the Keef effect....but I keep all 6 strings....

people left...where were you?