Jump to content

daddymack

Moderators
  • Content Count

    45,198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

daddymack last won the day on July 6

daddymack had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,928 Excellent

About daddymack

  • Rank
    Hunkered Down Retiree
  • Birthday 12/14/1953

Converted

  • Biography
    So. Cal. based multi-instrumentalist, singer/songwriter, sideman/session player

Converted

  • Location
    Upstairs, watching the clouds

Converted

  • Interests
    yeah, like, music, man, an' like, fixing guitars an' amps an' stuff...

Converted

  • Occupation
    no longer looking for one...

Recent Profile Visitors

1,777 profile views
  1. I would think the cost of repair would outweigh replacement. And ' the pedal doesn't produce any sound at all when turned off.' makes perfect sense to me...unless you mean that it doesn't go into 'bypass' mode, and the signal is stopping at the pedal...which is different
  2. The chord when played with all strings open is a G6 [DGDGBE]...I have never heard this referred to as 'G Standard'. I'm guessing you don't have much music theory background. The lowest note is not necessarily the arbiter of the key. Look at other chords. If you play a 'cowboy chord' A major [or minor], the lowest note is E, which is the 5th of A. D is the 5th note of the key of G. what you have is a D[5th]/G[tonic or 1st]/D again/G again/B[the 3rd in the key of G major]/and E [the 6th in the key of G major]
  3. is this a solid state or tube amp? odds are you may have damaged the power transformer, because the fuse likely did not blow because the amperage was low enough. Transformers are not hard to replace, if you know what you are doing; however, they are pricey. But the cost of replacing the transformer is likely less that replacing the amp. A qualified tech can make the conversion for you fairly simply...
  4. well, then you should have been here 14 years ago when he was trying to get rid of it...
  5. does look interesting, but without knowing how it sounds or plays...
  6. this from the prince of the ridiculous response?
  7. Don't bog down in 'analysis paralysis'...I would get my 'feet wet' with a basic Ditto...buy used, you can always resell it for the same price on reverb. Get experience, figure out what you really want to do with it...I still have my RC-30, but it is under utilized. Great features, most of which I determined didn't work for me...so I use a Ditto...which is where I should have started, but at the time, the Ditto wasn't available.
  8. Je comprends assez bien le français... À chacun son bonheur. Le noir est ma couleur préférée, très chic et facile à accessoiriser.😉 Toutes mes guitares électriques sont noires, tout comme la plupart de mes acoustiques, ukulélés, lap aciers et violons. [le SG brun a été donné à un cousin, et a été remplacé par un D'Angelico 335] pour les photographies, copier-coller, aucune astuce nécessaire!
  9. Top shape wise, with the Florentine cutaway, yeah, but the AK is a true hollowbody jazz box. Which is why it has the floating wood bridge....unlike our ES-135s which are semis with much thinner bodies.
  10. The Boomerang is a nice unit, but took up way too much pedal board space for my rig...and they are pricey [now about $500?]. On the plus side, if you use MIDI, the sync function is perfect, as is the MIDI start/stop. I think of the 'Rang' as the Hummer of loopers and the Ditto as the HR-V.😉 As I mentioned, you need to have your timing spot on to effectively use a looper, especially if, like I was, you are using a drum machine, or pre-recorded tracks.
  11. Happy NGD! Enjoy! a moment of steel wool application and that spot should be gone. Floating bridges are a PITA, but you can pin the base in place...I'm would not do exactly what this guy did, I would use something like a small roll pin rather than nails, and even he admits he should have taped the bridge down for the transfer of the holes...I would have drilled through just to mark the points, then removed the bridge, drilled, installed the pins and then put the bridge back...he spends way too much time fussing with those nails, IMHO
  12. How in the hell do you think this is good news?
  13. That seems like an awful lot of gear to haul, on top of what you'll need to actually perform. I do agree it will set you apart from the folks who don't have lighting, but I would try to us less and get more out of it....[I have a much smaller lighting set up than you, and even at that, I use about 1/3 of what I could, all to good effect.] I suggest you experiment with setting everything up, not just the lights, but the whole performance rig, and see how long it takes to put up/tear down, because that time cuts into your pay and your energy level. Then start removing, repositioning, 'working' the colors until you get the most out of the least. Do you bring your own backdrop? I won't comment on the color scheme, especially adding amber to the face, without knowing what your complexion is.
  14. It would depend exactly what you intend to do with the looper. Pretty much any looper will allow you to layer loops, so the what else do you want it to do? I did a lot of research on them years ago when they were just getting traction, and I have both a Ditto and an RC-30. I rarely use the RC-30 now, although I bought it because it did so many things I thought I needed at the time, like storing tons of loops. I am considering selling both to finance an Aeros...but I likely will just keep the Ditto, as I find I'm using looping less and less in my solo act...hard to justify upgrading to the new state of the art when you don't use it... I would suggest get the Ditto or Ditto + [note: buy used] and learn the tricks, get the feel [your sense of timing is absolutely crucial with loopers] and then if you feel you need more features, put the Ditto on Reverb.com and 'upgrade' to a Ditto x2, x4, RC-30, Line 6 JM4 or Jam-man.
×
×
  • Create New...