Dookietwo

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Wow, been posting here for almost 20 years and I just noticed after all those post and helping people I'm a newbie? Gee thanks! Doug

Hanif. This post is 6 years old. Maybe you should start a new thread? Could we get a few more details? Desk, Digital Stage Box ( A S16? ) Have you double checked your routing? Doug

That is quite common with these. The foam does rot. The magnet in the upper right is designed for a 250 watt basket which if I remember right is not as deep as the 350 watt ones. Not sure if the basket voice coil you have on it will bottom out or not but something to think about. Also the larger hole will help vent more heat for the higher power handling so that should be considered as well. Any foam that is not too hard to blow though will work. You'll want foam that is not too tightly packed so you can't blow through it yet it's not so open cell that it won't stop dust. Cut the foam slightly larger than is needed around. Put glue around the sides but not where the air blows though. Try a few different glues to see how it reacts to a spare piece of the foam to make sure it doesn't just eat it and leave you with another mess down the road. As far as the one scraping. Sometimes the voice coil going though repeated heating and cooling will become slightly not round. Also the voice coil gap is not perfect either. If you want to try you can do this. Put the basket back on the correct magnet and bolt down. With a marker put a line on the basket and magnet to it's current location. Gently push the cone around the dust cap trying to push the speaker in at an even amount. See if you hear or feel scraping. If you do try pushing on just one area of the cone so it goes in slightly uneven. See if you get a different scraping sound in different locations. With this done take the bolts out and turn the magnet 1/3 of a turn and try again. See if it is better or worse. If still not better try the last spot. Sometimes just by turning the magnet like this you will find a location that will work. Last if not any of these locations work try loosing only 1 bolt slightly and see how it effects things. I had a very difficult one that I ended up only using 2 bolts and the last I heard it is still going strong today. Go figure. One last thing to look for is the spider itself. ( the sort of orange folded circle keeping the voice coil straight going up/down ) I've seen the spider come unglued where it is connected to the basket and make flapping / scraping sound itself. I used super glue "gel" kind of stuff. I picked up the unglued spider with tooth picks and put glue in that way before. Hope this helps. Doug

Just a few pictures.

Did have a little be of fun yesterday. A band is starting up. Electronic drum kit. ( the levels were not set for the kit, just first time firing it up ) Bass and guitar on quality modelers. Good players just the first time ever playing together. Here is a jam just to get things going that I recorded. My headphones must be thin on the bass side as it is a little bass heavy. Again the drums levels are not set yet so the tops and overall drum mix is what it is. Just stereo out on the drums although I noted there is 8 outs on the kit so I may go direct channel out later.

Haven't seen a post in month's. Hows everyone doing? I have a few shows for the summer. Not sure after that. It sure is slow everywhere. Places are opening up so there is hope. How are things in your area. Doug

As far as subs there is many, many choices. I would look into Powered subs because at their price point it just makes sense to have a speaker/amp setup all designed to work together. Also some subs have an input and a High Frequency output jack. They sometimes even have a full range out and a High Frequency out. With a powered sub with a crossover High Frequency out to go to your new amp it would be a very simple system to setup. These are just a low cost example of a pair of subs that has a High Frequency out , full range out (pass though) on the back. I wouldn't recommend going lower in quality than this. With this you wouldn't have to buy a crossover or another amp. A local band has a set of these and really don't sound too bad for what they are. Again just an example. It would be nice to find subs that would fit where the MTX are now to keep them hidden. https://www.americanmusical.com/peavey-pv-118d-powered-pa-subwoofer/p/PEV-PV118D?src=Y0802G00SRCHCAPN&adpos=&scid=scplpPEV+PV118D&sc_intid=PEV+PV118D&gclid=CjwKCAiAzNj9BRBDEiwAPsL0d4sJueQcSAKuvEUPvqdhNnu75xU28SiY-fwW3JH7YPF5ffl8j835choC0McQAvD_BwE Best of luck in your search and let us know how your final setup is! Doug

Just something for you to think about. Sometimes when I've walked into a show where they had different brands/makes of speakers being used I would run what is called a Dual PA setup. If your running a Mono PA you could pan to the Left the Vocals, guitars etc. and have the left out go to the amp that is powering the Community speakers and have the drums, bass guitar etc. panned to the right and have the right out feed the amp or amp channel that is feeding your MTX PRO 215 speakers. What this does is splits the "work" up if you will to 2 different PA's and gives you control as to which PA receives which of your boards channels. Just by using Pan you can assign what you want to which pair of speakers. I'm unsure if the amp you have now will go down to 2 ohms but without the drums and bass guitar in the Community speakers you may be able to do this now. Left out from your desk to Channel A on the amp for the Community speakers, Right out on your desk to Channel B for the MTX PRO 215 speakers. Even just having the Bass Drum and Bass Guitar into the MTX's may help clean things up for now. Looks like the drums may be loud enough in your room and just need some low end added. Only down side is not having a stereo mix. If you had a Post Fade Aux mix from your board free and another amp you could run a stereo Community speaker mains and a mono MTX speakers Aux fed setup as well. Use the post fade Aux send to feed the MTX speakers and the L/R to feed the Community ones. Just don't assign what is going to the Aux to the L/R bus. Again something to think about; Doug

Glad you found the issue with the crossovers. The light bulbs are a protection. Sometimes there is a device that at a given input will start putting over current (wattage) to the bulbs to help protect the high frequency section. Sometimes a poly switch of sorts. I've seen at some shows a sound person will push a speaker too hard and you can see the insides of the speakers lighting up. Not good... ;-) Amps are always a user thing. I've used a bunch from different companies. AB International, Peavey, QSC, to name a few. I had a 3002 and thought it was a good amp. Today many amps have crossovers in them so it might be worth the time to look around to find one with a basic 100 hz crossover built in. I may have a basic write up on a active crossover setup somewhere around here. May take a day or two of looking to find it. Sounds like your going to keep it simple for the best sound. Subs doing 100 to 120hz and below with the tops doing that and above. I've used many,many different crossovers through the years. This photo has 2 Peavey CEX5 crossovers in it. They went out of production years ago. Keep us informed as you go. Doug EDIT: Just as a side note the 2 - 15 band Peavey eq wasn't used. My next door neighbors 4 year old daughter loved to move those faders around when the system was home so those strange eq settings were not used.

By looking at the pictures it's hard to tell if there is something wrong with the rest of the crossover but there is one thing you can try. Only to test. Take a short piece of wire and make a jumper to take the place of the light bulb. Connect the wire to one end of the light bulb and go over to the other end of it. Basically replace the bulb with a solid wire. Be sure that the wire has plastic on it where it is not connected to the bulb ends so it won't short anything. Then at a low level try music through it and see if the horn section will work then. Do this only if you feel your able to do this correctly. If the horn section works now then try to find the correct light bulbs to replace. Maybe contact the company? Only other thing to try would be to swap out the crossovers to put the good crossover in the bad sounding box.

If you look around some places sell black ratchet straps. They of course don't stick out the way the yellow ones do. Doug

1. Pull the MTX out from under the stage and stand them up where the Yamaha's are now. Place the Yamaha's UPSIDE DOWN on top of the MTX speakers and ha (((("""" How would you go about strapping the speakers together? I have a thought on how its done, but if i do anything I want to do it safely and properly."""")))) Most use small ratchet straps through the handles , up and over then back down through the handles on the other side. As always its up to the user to determine what is safe. Consult a professional rigger should you not know for sure. Doug

Thanks for the pictures. Makes it easier. If I'm reading your post correctly and looking at the pictures the MTX on their side and the Yamaha's set on the stage are both full range. I'm guessing a stereo setup? Amp Channel A going to a Yamaha and MTX on the Right and Channel B going to the Left side MTX and Yamaha? The MTX set on their sides close to the floor are not filling the room in any way. The people in front and blocking the sound. (I'm thinking at one time someone did use them for subs) 2nd issue is the Yamaha's are not really tall enough either. Looking at the floor going up, not knowing how far back the room goes , I'd have the center of the Yamaha horns at least as high as a person standing on the stages head would be. Have the horns around 6 feet high. 3 thoughts. 1. Pull the MTX out from under the stage and stand them up where the Yamaha's are now. Place the Yamaha's UPSIDE DOWN on top of the MTX speakers and have them safely strapped to them. Upside down will better couple the horns of the MTX and Yamaha giving better output. 1 speaker cable to the MTX out to the Yamaha's. 2. Put the Community speaker where the Yamaha's are now. Again place the Yamaha's on top of them and upside down properly strapped for safety. Unplug and not use the MTX speakers. Go into the Community speakers from the QSC amp and then out of them with a short speaker cable up to the Yamaha speakers. This will give the QSC amp about a 3 ohm load or so but it is rated at a 2 ohm load. More current (wattage) will flow to the Communities but you may like the overall sound. 3. Find a way to get the Community speakers put in the place of the Yamaha's and up so the middle of them is roughly 4 feet high or so. ( maybe on top of the MTX if it feels safe to do so ) 1 amp channel to each Community speaker. 450 watts to each one and just see what the Community speakers will do alone. Maybe find a day to try these different setups when there is no people around with good recorded music to see what seems to be the best match. You may not have an ideal amp or speaker setup but you may be able to get it sounding better. At the very least get some tripods for the Yamaha's or set them on a table etc. to get them higher. Doug

https://www.communitypro.com/sites/default/files/CSX70-S2_spec.pdf

The Community CS70-S2 were a high output speaker in their day. Right around 105 db output for a 1 watt input. If in good working order they would be Miles above the MTX speakers and should be much better than the Yamaha's as well. They were around 500 to 600 watts rms and could have an amp in the 1200 to 1600 watt rms at 4 ohms range if I remember right. Odd that they are not being used. Seems like the MTX are in a bad spot right now I wonder if they can be unplugged and the CS70's could be plugged in for a try? Again have the 50hz low cut dip switches on in the back of the amp for both channels. The CS-70's on top of a double 18 crossed around 100hz or so properly powered would make a nice rig. Even a self powered 18 inch sub that had High Frequency Out XLR's going to your current QSC amp to feed the CS-70's would be a nice , simple setup. Pictures would be nice to get a better idea as to what your looking at. Doug

Are you sure the MTX are an 8 ohm speaker? I used a set for a few shows and thought they were 4 ohm's each. Regardless you have a somewhat small amp so you may be getting all you can get out of what you have. 450 watts divided by 2 is 225 watts RMS to each speaker. Kind of low. I'd look for an amp in the 1000 watts per channel at 4 ohms. The amp you have properly bridged would work driving the Yamaha's alone. It is 1400 watts mono at 4 ohms bridged or 700 watts to each speaker. Keep the clip lights from flashing a lot in use and have the 50hz low cut on. You'd need another amp for the MTX. Maybe with a crossover just use them for subs? A good system would be a mono system. Bridged 1450 for the Yamaha's and an amp in the 900 watts per box range for the MTX with a crossover built into it so 100hz and above is taking out so they are used as subs. Is the Yamaha S115IV setting on top of the Mtx's?

Look ahead Noise Gate. https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/topic,173132.msg1595843.html#msg1595843

Something I do when I don't have a good tuned drum or no way to get a good "Click" is the take the 1 channel that the bass drum microphone is coming in on and assign it to 2 channel strips. (If you have a analog desk get a Y cable and feed 2 channels that way) I eq the lows and extreme highs out of this 2nd channel and get the best paper/click sound I can get and layer it on top of the normal channel. You can experiment with gate and compression if needed. This brings out plenty of paper, easy to control and layer. On the "Normal" channel you don't have to eq that big boost in the 1.5 to 5k range you may have to for some Dead drums. Works good. Something that is easy to try and doesn't hurt if its wrong for the "Drum of the Night" you may run into. In this screen shot I have my Paper channel shown. It is assigned to a DCA so I can layer it as needed. I'm using this layer and these inputs for "Look ahead gate triggers" for my normal channels.

Yeah, the QW-1's were heavy. Looks like 154 lbs. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/121309/Peavey-Qw-1.html Doug

Consume Said- "How many people did it take to get those QW-1's on top of the DTH subs?!?!" Honestly I did it myself. I had a system worked out where I started them upside down. Slid them on so they ended up on their side on top of the DTH-Sub. Think of the letter T. Then I would pull them back and stand them up on top. But I was MUCH younger then. (I'm older than you are now though) Fantastic speaker with very good controlled coverage. I had 3 Peavey CEX5 Digital crossovers to make it all work. The 3rd CEX5 crossover was for the old center fill. But too heavy for me. I believe the QW-1's are still sitting in a barn after only being used for 9 months. I should look them up and see what is left of them.

I now use Db Technologies IG4T's and IG2T's with the LS801pb subs. Funny though more than a 30 year span most are in the same room that these pictures where taken in.

I went from the QW-1 / DTH system to am to a Yorkville 2-EF500P tops and Yorkville LS800p's. This in some ways bettered the Peavey system and was a back saver.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/121284/Peavey-Dth-218b.html?page=2#manual

Post a picture of the crossovers in the back. I'll know if they are stock or not. Yes, those are DTH-218B subs. The woofer that is reversed, with the magnet showing, has its input wires reversed as well. Both cones move forward and back at the same time. The anti-axial arrangement of the drivers eliminates even-order harmonic distortion according to the manual. I later coupled them to Peavey QW1-s and that setup would work rather well. The down side to the subs was they really needed some power to get up and go. For awhile I was running a GPS-3500 bridged for each one but the weight was just too much. Honestly I found a single yorkville LS800 sub did what they did with none of the work involved. The DTH also had a cut around 100hz or so that just couldn't be eq'ed out. Not bad for the day but time marches on. I was still using the carvin's for side fill. I found they sounded quite good for what they were. I had subs under them for a short time as mains and I had no complaints.