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giliad

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Posts posted by giliad


  1. If you look at the 1st pic you can see the 3 6/32 bolts I have in the home made router base. These correspond with 10", 12" and 15" speaker cutouts. You drill a 1/8" hole and run the bolt for the selected size down thru the material. The bit is a 20mm straight bit. These have the cutters on the sides and they wrap around the top (bottom) of the bit. So you lower the router 1/4" at a time and cut the circle. Sure faster and easier than using a hand held jig saw. The major trick is stopping just shy of the completed hole on the last pass to avoid having the router dance across your work. Simply break the cut out and finish with a half round file.

     

    If you cut with a scrap piece underneath, you can screw down the center waste circle, clamp the outside of the baffle so it doesn't move and cut all the way through.

    This is done all the time cutting soundholes in acoustic guitars. Actually I use double stick tape to keep everythng place when I cut a sound hole through a guitar top but those parts a lot smaller and lighter.


  2. We built 2'x4' panels that are simple 1x4 frames filled with mineral wool batts and wrapped with cheap muslin. I have several on those placed around the home "bedroom" studio.

    I made a couple of smaller panels to hang on the hollow core door plus I put foam weather stripping around the door and added a vinyl door sweep. It's not sound "proof" but it certainly helped a lot. Like WRGKMC said it at least stops it from acting like a speaker baffle.

    If I ever move I can just take the screws out, fill the holes and repaint.


  3. Just curious.. how often do you actually slide the hangers into different positions?

     

    Not that often but it's easy to do. We have 17 instruments around so it is adjusted sometimes depending on what is out and being used at the time.

     

    I'll post a picture later.

     

    BTW, you should fasten your 1xs to the studs then put the hangers where you want.


  4. I would go for option #4

    I made something similar except it's a single row of adjustable hangers in a what amounts to a giant dovetail. I can slide the dovetailed hangers anywhere along the rail. It will hold 6 to 8 instruments depending on what they are.


  5. I used one of these for years for both bass and guitar, one rack with a couple different preamps, etc and two different cabs.

    At 1100 watts bridged you can do whatever you want. I had to turn down the output on the back most of the time so I didn't blow something up.

    You can probably find one for less than $200 now and they're built like a tank. Mine never failed me, but it was extremely heavy to haul around.

    peavey_85c.jpg


  6. It sounds to me like the bass is passive, so there's no such thing as turning the treble up. Passive tone controls are cut-only. When the tone knob is fully clockwise, it isn't adding treble, its not cutting it.


    A smaller cap would raise the cutoff frequency, so it wouldn't cut as much treble. Using a 500k pot would have a similar effect.


    In order to get the "most" sound (or the widest range of frequencies), you could ditch the tone knob and hook the volume pot straight to the output jack.


    As far as I know, the only way to actually add treble is to go active and/or use a preamp (either installed on the bass or an external pedal/rack).

     

    Yeah OK, he's turning the tone knob fully clock wise and not cutting existing treble. So I'm not adding, just not cutting as much with the changes, if it gets the desired tone then all is good.

     

    An external pedal/preamp might be good alternative too


  7. Yes they are humbuckers with 4 wires if I remember correctly. Two wires are just connected together right now.

    I guess I'll try the pots first and have the cap on hand to experiment with too.

    I'll have to think about the switching. Thanks.


  8. A couple years ago I built myself a 5 string bass with two Kent Armstrong soap bar pickups. I've built few guitars and this is the only bass so I kept the wiring simple. I bought the basic P-bass kit from Stewmac that had (2) 250K pots, a .050 cap, the jack and a little wire. I added a blend pot instead of switches for the two pickups. The blend pot was also 250K.

     

    The result was a very mellow bass that was just what I wanted.

    Now my son is using it on tour with a rock band. He says it's too mellow, not enough punch. He turns the treble up and EQs everything to the treble side but that doesn't give him much flexibility. He has a 4 string Fender J with noiseless pickups and really likes the way that sounds but he needs the low B playing with this band.

     

    He'll be home for a few weeks around Christmas and we thought we would make some modifications.

    My first idea is to change all the pots to 500Ks and use a .02 cap. I have a couple of DPDT switches we could add to so he can reverse polarity on one or both pickups if he wanted.

     

    For all you who know more about this than I do, will this give it more punch?

    Any better ideas?

    Other than buying a new 5 string J.


  9. I have a set of DR Black Beauties that I wanted to transfer to a new bass but the tuner configuration is different and one of the strings was cut too short. After searching for a single string, it has to be black you see, but only finding full sets I emailed DR to ask if I could buy a single string directly from them. They asked for my address and are sending it for free. There was nothing wrong with the old one except it was cut too short.

    For that reason, and the sound, from now on whenever I need strings for anything I will try to buy DRs.


  10. I think with a proper setup, a set like this would tune down a half step just fine on a 5er:


    http://www.juststrings.com/drs-mh5-45-130.html


    .130-.45 DR Lo Rider set



    Done. We actually put together a set, buying single strings from Just Strings. We followed the gauges for the Lo Riders and went .005" bigger on each string.
    It did require some setup but it needed that anyway. It sounds great and he could tune down a lot further than 1/2 step if needed.


  11. Well new strings it is. We talked during lunch today and I asked him if he could just transpose instead of retuning. He said he could do that but there are a couple songs where he will need that open string.


  12. Thanks for all the advice. I'll float the transposing idea by him but I'm guessing he'll opt for new strings since bass isn't his normal spot. He can play but he's more comfortable on guitar or behind the drums. This opportunity came up to fill in for this band's usual bass player, make a little money and tour. It's probably not permanant thing.


  13. Any experience with a 5 string tuned down 1/2?

    We were thinking about making up a set of nickel round wounds, buying singles, .055 .075 .095 .115 & .135 or .140

    Any thoughts? Anybody?


  14. My son has a 3 month tour coming up with a new band and he found out today that they always tune 1/2 step down. He was going to play his 5 string bass and take the 4 for back up but when he tunes it down 1/2 there is lot of string rattle, especially the B string. It's a 34" scale and currently has a set of DR color coated .125s on it.

    Would a heavier set of strings solve the problem? If so how much heavier should he go?

    He said the 4 string (same scale) handled it OK. I don't know what's on it.

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