garthman

LOL - my brain works faster than my typing fingers. How are you?

Bigald! Great to see you - you are you?

Well it's not very lively LOL so feel free to post whatever you want - will be good to hear stuff.

Well, you are an odd lot over there to be sure.

The original concept of VOM1T was to hold a monthly "virtual open mic, one take". viz. to emulate an actual open mic session, warts and all. It was started and originally hosted by long-gone member "Stackabones". After Stackabones stopped posting it was taken on by Michael Martin - also long-gone - and finally by myself. I moved it to an annual, "sticky" event where people can post whenever they wish a few years ago because not many people were posting in the monthly sessions. As it developed it became a pretty much do-as-you-please thing. The original sessions are still available on a site maintained by member "Ohio Arrow". Here is a link: http://village.melodyvine.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=7e9427f2ce3d00d287e213e9b85de63e

This problem is almost always due to poor contact between the base of the saddle and the UST underneath it. Slacken off the guitar strings until you can remove the saddle segment. Place it on a flat surface and check to see if the base is flat. If it's not you should see a small gap between the base of the saddle and the surface. If it is just a problem on one string a good quick fix is to put a very thin layer of wood filler on the base of the saddle where it comes into contact with the particular string then replace the saddle pressing down firmly then tighten up the strings and leave overnight for the filler to harden - it will fill any gaps and you should then be OK.

No, they are not. Most acoustic guitars use a set of six individual tuners. The strip ones like you posted are generally used on slothead guitars (and, when the steel peg has a plastic sleeve, on classical guitars). Gretsch has just used the strips on the rear of the Jim Dandy paddle headstock . It may well be that some early steel string acoustics were fitted with strip tuners because they were widely in use on classical guitars. I have a Recording King ROS-16 that is a sort of copy of the Martin 000 -45 and that uses tuners virtually identiacl strip tuners.

Yeah. Like I said above, they are just standard slothead tuners. The Jim Dandy just uses them fixed to the back of a paddle headstock.

Very nice.

I usually buy them on Ebay and they come from China: £10 - £15 inc. delivery. Works for me.

I think that guitar uses a slotted headstock style of tuner (similar to classical guitar tuners but with metal pegs. Measure the peg distances and see if you can find a match on Ebay.

My first guitar was a classical. I had no desire to be a classical guitarist - I just liked the way it looked, played and sounded. I learned all the basics on it before buying a steel string a few years later which then became my main guitar for many years - just because it was more "hip" really. But now I have returned to playing classical guitars pretty much exclusively and, although I have a few good classicals, I often play that first one - it's now 54 years old and still going strong. I agree wih you 100% about starting on them - those first few years learning precise chord fingerings stood me in good stead.

Hello and welcome. All of the problems you are encountering are typical and common when you start to learn to play the guitar. Just keep practising and they will slowly disappear. As to how you hold your guitar: there is a standard "classical" posture which gives the best access to the whole fretboard but it's perfectly OK to try other positions if you are finding it uncomfortable. Don't make your practice sessions too long at first - stop when you get any pain - little and often is best at first. Enjoy.

Excellent, Deep.

Hello and welcome Well I've been playing guitar for over 50 years and I've been doing my own set ups and minor repairs and adjustments for almost that long too. I have never heard anyone mention that the height of the strings above the soundboard is of importance. Neither have I experienced any difference in sound quality after lowering action (assuming you don't get silly about it - I know one person who dropped the action so low that the strings rattled if you blew on them - but I fixed it for him).

The usual places are either on the label or on the neck block inside the guitar.

Wow! Impressive stuff.

If I wasn't 3500 miles away, I'd buy it.

"Winterlude" by Bob Dylan

Their earlier models are as good as any Martin I've played.

I'll see what I can do

Tanglewood is a UK company that started out in the late 1980's with guitars designed in the UK and made in Korea. Their earlier models are excellent instruments of high quality both of materials and craftmanship and often put many "famous name" guitars to shame. I think the TW12 was a quite early model. You can date it from the serial number. The first two numbers are the year: 95 = 1995 etc, and the second two are the month: 05 = May, etc.; the other numbers are the build sequence. It will certainly have a solid top and it may well be all solid. Nice find - enjoy.

Let us hope so.

Hello You might find some info at the links below: https://acousticguitarcabin.boards.net/thread/1720/seagull-models https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517891 https://sixstringacoustic.com/seagull-guitar-serial-numbers-when-was-your-seagull-guitar-built

Best wishes to forum members and their families.