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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I'll try without the compressor next time. I also had to use noise reduction plugin during post-production to get the single coil + amp buzz under control, which also affected the naturalness of the tone.
  2. 1 point
    all I can say is 'COME ON VACCINE!!!'
  3. 1 point
    in case anyone is curious...I 'pinned'* this thread for y'all...keep'em comin'! [*what we used to call a 'sticky']
  4. 1 point
    Late to the party here! I have encountered the same problem. The R-Trem *was* OK (though it does still require significantly more effort than a Fender floating bridge or a Floyd Rose). I wanted to examine and lubricate all the components, so I unlocked the trem, took off the strings, loosened the master bridge screw completely and gently removed the R-trem bridge. Nice design. Quite simple, really... After reassembly and tuning up, the trem was so stiff as to be unusable. The effort required to drop more than a semitone was sufficient that I was worried something would break. Excessive force with these guitars can apparently result in bent knife-edge trem posts. NOT good! Something was wrong... What the heck had I done? I disassembled the unit again and had a look... That long master bridge screw. Look where it goes when you screw it in (raising the pitch of all strings as it pushes the bridge back). It pushes into a metal receiver on the end of the (very strong) spring. That receiver has a little hole a few mm deep drilled into it; the end of that screw needs to enter that little hole. In my case the master bridge screw was just impacting a bare millimetre away from that hole, but not entering it. That meant the screw started pushing against the spring significantly earlier as you tuned up the master bridge to equalise the string-pull tension. In the attached image you can clearly see the dent off-centre where this screw was impacting the receiver. By making sure the screw enters the metal receiver properly, the trem worked perfectly again. I did this as follows... With the bridge off, start screwing the master bridge screw in until you can see it protruding about 4mm inside the guitar. Now fit that spring, making sure that screw goes properly into the receiver end. Keep screwing in the master bridge screw until the receiver starts pushing it towards the other side. You should now have the spring loosely hanging off this master bridge screw with enough space at the other spring end to fit the metal tab that protrudes from the bridge itself. Fit the bridge onto the posts and tighten the master bridge screw until it pushes the bridge fully back. Fit the vibrato bar and depress a little so you can lock the bridge. Fit your strings (doesn't take long on a Steinberger!) but periodically release the lock and tighten the master bridge screw to counteract string pull, and re-lock the bridge. When fully tuned, release the lock again and tighten the master bridge screw until the string pitches are the same whether locked or not. At this point I had a working-ish trem, albeit a bit stiff. The opposite side of the spring (without the receiver end) has to properly work its way into the circular recess in the metal tab protruding from the bridge. I had to (quite gently) dive-bomb (i.e. depress) the vibrato bar all the way a few times to do this at which point there was a loud 'clunk' from inside the guitar as that spring snapped into position. The master bridge screw had to be tightened a bit more after that. Voila, one perfectly working trem... Hope this helps someone! 🙂


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