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Which solder for guitar wiring?


Florbastang

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Which solder is optimal for guitar wiring?

 

I seem to have a spool of this lead-free rosin-core solder solder. It contains 97.3% tin, 0.7% copper, 2.0% rosin flux core.

 

Would this work well for guitar wiring?

 

In the past I've used Radioshack 60/40 rosin-core solder, but I've run out. Should I just go pick up some of that?

 

Is there a better solder type?

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Has anyone else has luck with that silver solder? I bought some once thinking silver was a better conductor than tin and lead...but the stuff wouldn't melt with the iron I had and I didn't want to fry my components with a more powerful soldering iron.

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I think the push for lead free started with plumbing solder to get lead out of water supply lines, and now there's a push to get everything lead free. If you're a tech soldering all day long I could see the concern about lead and fumes, but I suspect for most us occasional "techies", it's not that big a deal. Although now, somebody will come back and say I'm going to die tomorrow from lead exposure. Seems to me the old 60/40 is a bit easier to use, so I'll probably just keep on keeping on.

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Is silver solder so much better a conductor that it would affect the sound? I doubt it. And to me it's not worth the hassle of trying to get the stuff off with the soldering irons I have, when the day comes that I need to work on the guitar again.

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Is silver solder so much better a conductor that it would affect the sound? I doubt it. And to me it's not worth the hassle of trying to get the stuff off with the soldering irons I have, when the day comes that I need to work on the guitar again.

 

Agree with this! :thu:

 

Don't make your life more difficult than it needs to be.

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I think the push for lead free started with plumbing solder to get lead out of water supply lines, and now there's a push to get everything lead free. If you're a tech soldering all day long I could see the concern about lead and fumes, but I suspect for most us occasional "techies", it's not that big a deal. Although now, somebody will come back and say I'm going to die tomorrow from lead exposure. Seems to me the old 60/40 is a bit easier to use, so I'll probably just keep on keeping on.

 

 

Sure, but what if I already have some lead-free stuff. Would it work just as well?

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Problem with the silver stuff is that it doesn't want to flow worth a crap without a lot of additional flux. It doesn't require more heat which is a common mistake, it just needs a lot of flux. That makes clean up messier and the likelihood of it failing over time (flux is corrosive as {censored}). 60/40 is great and is just easier to use....still need to clean it up though.

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Problem with the silver stuff is that it doesn't want to flow worth a crap without a lot of additional flux. It doesn't require more heat which is a common mistake, it just needs a lot of flux. That makes clean up messier and the likelihood of it failing over time (flux is corrosive as {censored}). 60/40 is great and is just easier to use....still need to clean it up though.

 

 

that differs from my understanding of what flux does.

 

i was under the impression that the flux is just there to help the solder adhere to the surface it is being melted onto. i have to admit that i have forgotten how it is supposed to do this, perhaps through oxidization (or etching away the oxidization) of the mating surfaces?

 

i dont recal it having much to do with the melting or flow of the metal itself though.

 

-max

 

edit, just checked, flux removes oxidization from the surfaces and from the solder itself, allowing the solder to adhere. still dunno about its effect on the solder metal itself as far as melting and flow.

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that differs from my understanding of what flux does.


i was under the impression that the flux is just there to help the solder adhere to the surface it is being melted onto. i have to admit that i have forgotten how it is supposed to do this, perhaps through oxidization (or etching away the oxidization) of the mating surfaces?


i dont recal it having much to do with the melting or flow of the metal itself though.


-max


edit, just checked, flux removes oxidization from the surfaces and from the solder itself, allowing the solder to adhere. still dunno about its effect on the solder metal itself as far as melting and flow.

 

It removes the oxidation which allows it to adhere, but it also helps to act as a heat bridge while doing it. The flux heats up quickly, cleans the surface and the solder flows just about everywhere that it is.

 

Reason I brought it up is because a lot of times people will try to use no flux and end up with a 100W solder gun to try to solder a pot or something. That's a great way to burn up a pot. A little flux with a 25W iron with a clean tip and it will do just fine. I've also had to use additional flux with the high silver content stuff.

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It removes the oxidation which allows it to adhere, but it also helps to act as a heat bridge while doing it. The flux heats up quickly, cleans the surface and the solder flows just about everywhere that it is.


Reason I brought it up is because a lot of times people will try to use no flux and end up with a 100W solder gun to try to solder a pot or something. That's a great way to burn up a pot. A little flux with a 25W iron with a clean tip and it will do just fine. I've also had to use additional flux with the high silver content stuff.

 

 

Flux on pots is a Godsend.

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I've always used this stuff..

 

solder2.jpg

 

I know Radioshack sells comparable stuff, but Deans seems to melt and flow more smoothly and the joints are a lot stronger. I started using this when I was building battery packs for racing RC cars.. The Radioshack stuff I was using kept breaking when there was a wreck. I dind't have my solder with me at the track and someone loaned me some of this stuff.. I used it and fell in love with it.. Redid all my packs with it the following week and had no additional problems from my solder joints.. You can get it at any Hobby Town USA..

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Will this stuff work?
I ordered a couple of bottles.


21T7M0DTW6L._SL500_AA156_.jpg

 

Depends on the composition, but if it's an acid type flux...No. Acid flux will corrode anything electrical. What you want is something with rosin in it. Flux does two things. first, at soldering temperature, it cleans and prevents the formation of metal oxides. Secondly, flux acts as a wetting agent in the soldering process, reducing the surface tension of the molten solder and causing it to better wet out the parts to be joined.

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Depends on the composition, but if it's an acid type flux...No. Acid flux will corrode anything electrical. What you want is something with rosin in it. Flux does two things. first, at soldering temperature, it cleans and prevents the formation of metal oxides. Secondly, flux acts as a wetting agent in the soldering process, reducing the surface tension of the molten solder and causing it to better wet out the parts to be joined.

Thanks for the reply, parrothead. It says on the bottle that it's an all-purpose liquid solder, but it doesn't say whether it's acid core or rosin core.

I guess I'll have to wait until I get it.

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Thanks for the reply, parrothead. It says on the bottle that it's an all-purpose liquid solder, but it doesn't say whether it's acid core or rosin core.

I guess I'll have to wait until I get it.

 

If it's acid core, find your nearest Radio Shack and ask for a flux pen. It's a pen-shaped "bottle" (for lack of better words) with a wick on the end made for dispensing the flux from inside the pen. It takes a little getting used to in order to avoid globbing the stuff everywhere, but I consider mine a necessary part of my soldering arsenal, especially when I'm doing ground connections on the back of pots and doing bridge grounds.

 

For anyone concerned about solder fumes, I believe most of what gets in the air is flux fumes, but I still do not take chances. Being a former smoker who lives with a chain smoker, I'm sensitive to what I breathe in and I avoid working in any area of the house when said smoker is around, and when I solder, I use a little "desk" fan to draw fumes away. I've found that using the fan to blow air on whatever I'm soldering can interfere with surface temperatures, thus causing problems. If you put the fan nearby with it blowing away from you, it creates just enough airflow that it draws the fumes away.

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If it's acid core, find your nearest Radio Shack and ask for a flux pen. It's a pen-shaped "bottle" (for lack of better words) with a wick on the end made for dispensing the flux from inside the pen. It takes a little getting used to in order to avoid globbing the stuff everywhere, but I consider mine a necessary part of my soldering arsenal, especially when I'm doing ground connections on the back of pots and doing bridge grounds.


:thu:

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