Poparad Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 How the hell does one go about doing this? My toggle switch has been losing its stick and always pops back to the center position. I'm not really sure what caused it to happen, as I rarely use anything other than the center position anyway, so it's hardly seen any wear. I have a Gibson ES-135 semi-hollow, and I figured I would probably have to replace the switch, but I don't see how in the world I would go about accessing the wires to solder on a new one. Is this even possible without cutting the guitar open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jelloman Posted July 26, 2009 Members Share Posted July 26, 2009 They usually thread the controls in thru the f-hole... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jtr654 Posted July 26, 2009 Members Share Posted July 26, 2009 If you get it out it's probably just bent you might be able to straighten it out so it will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Wode Olbrich Posted February 21, 2020 Members Share Posted February 21, 2020 I replaced the toggle switch of my ES 135 as follows: Take off the strings unscrew the two Philips-screws that fix the neck pickup, pull out the neck pickup unscrew the metal base of the pickup unscrew the plastic cap of the toggle switch "screw" a vinyl hose (5mm thick, 50 cm long) on to the switch, then loosen the nut that fixes the switch press the switch into the guitar body, control it with the vinyl hose pull the switch out through the pickup hole do the soldering pull the switch back into the right position using the fixing vinyl hose remount the switch etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators daddymack Posted February 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted February 21, 2020 Although I typically use fishing line tied to the shaft of the switch below the threads as my 'retrieval' line*, this^ is essentially how it is done on a ES135, my preferred option is to pull out the four screws on the pick-up ring and remove the whole p-up assembly; either way works. [even if it is one of the 2002/2003 'hard-tail' or 'no f-hole' models where they put in a rear access panel for the pots/jack wiring to speed up assembly/inspection, the toggle is still only accessed through the neck pick-up aperture]... a PITA, but the toggle is on the wrong side of the center block, and the leads to the toggle are not long enough to reach the f-hole on that side....thanks, Gibson... Depending on the design of the toggle [see the two more common versions below], in many cases the 'leaves' of the switch can be adjusted [read: bent], rather than having to replace the switch. Of course, by that time, you have it out anyway, so replacing it may be the more logical process. One could, at that point, add extra wire to the switch lead to allow access via the f-hole, but heck, you know you are never going to work on that switch again, right? Vertical toggle: 'L' or Horizontal Toggle: * I have also used shrink sleeve for similar retrieval, but the heat from the gun can cause damage to the finish of the instrument, so I do not recommend this method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikeo Posted February 21, 2020 Members Share Posted February 21, 2020 I have an ES 135, never replaced anything. I want you to watch this. There's a tubing kit you can get. The video does the pick ups too, but you'll get the idea. This is for a Gretsch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators daddymack Posted February 21, 2020 Moderators Share Posted February 21, 2020 meh...fishing line works fine...the tubing appears to present potential issues going through the wood on the face...I'll pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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