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I am SO bummed about my new Agile . . .


etawful

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BTW - glad to hear it worked and you know the bummer of it all? you should have put some lub in there first in case you wanted to swap the whole set of hardware for BLACK which is what I've been thinking on my spalted because you want nothing to detract from that awesome TOP!!


Enjoy - I love mine and it sounds totally amazing with a pup change


103_1064.jpg

 

LMAO, that top sheet is frickin' beautiful . . . looks like some kind of bat or dragon or something flying out of it :). I haven't decided if I want to swap out the pickups and such yet. I'm thinking of going with a Page style wiring setup and possibly some GFS pickups of some variety (I'm on a tight budget so maybe those or some Toneriders which I've also heard good things about).

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NOW - Post some pics of the thing or this is a lie!! and REMOVE that PICK GUARD! to show it off BRO!!!

 

I posted pics a few days ago:

 

3000.jpg

 

If I take the pickguard off, should I just leave the holes? I thought about it, and couldn't decide if I really wanted to or not.

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i have two Agile AL guitars. one a 3100 and the other a 3000. they both have that. and i've seen a lot of other guitars on AGF that have that too. but not only that, but i've seen that also on many gibsons. it wont hurt the guitar, the intonation, the playability or anything at all.

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Agreed, but when its something as minor as a bushing that needs to be pushed in or a broken solder joint its just easier to take 5 mins and fix it then spend days waiting for things to be shipped.

 

 

I guess you didn't read the post where the OP said that it would require "plugging and re-drilling to fix it in this body".

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What is 'a good percentage'?


I've owned over 40 Gibsons and played several dozen more, and in my experience that percentage is zero...

 

You went through 40 brand new Gibsons in the last few years that were all perfect? You should consider playing the lottery.

 

:lol:

 

Some folks seem to have better luck than others. I'm not a Gibson hater. Not at all. But it is the obvious example when folks start talking smack about 'getting what you pay for' in regards to ~$400 or $500 Korean guitars.

 

There was a tech in Indy that was on about a 3 week backup when they because an authorized Gibson service center and a pretty portion of that was replacing nuts that were cut too low. Maybe it was all accidental. Maybe it was an effort to make the guitar to appear to have super low action that wouldn't be found to be a problem until after the sale but seriously, if you know any authorized Gibson service centers that you can talk with honestly, it was a pretty wide problem from about 5 to maybe 2 years ago, but you'll have a lot of people that deny it for obvious reasons... such as they sell Gibsons or they've owned 40 new Gibsons.

 

:poke:

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This is true. I have a couple of Jazzboxes that have bridges held in place strictly by string pressure alone. If you take all the strings off these guitars the bridge falls right off. They are just fine. If memory serves most violins are made this way as well and they also play just fine.

This is indeed how violins, violas, cellos, and double basses are made.

 

I played double bass for 4 and a half years and it take a considerable blow to knock it out of alignment

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I guess you didn't read the post where the OP said that it would require "plugging and re-drilling to fix it in this body".

 

 

I was wrong. It took 2 seconds with a rubber mallet while I was changing strings. Chalk it up to my inexperience with tune-o-matic style bridges.

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It is my experience that most all guitars with threaded inserts like that can use a tap or two with a mallet to make sure everything is seated. Wood swells, things back out.. Kind of natural really..

 

Yeah, I should have thought of it, especially considering how cold it's been here lately, the temperature could have caused all kinds of weirdness in shipping.

 

Now I know :).

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You went through 40 brand new Gibsons in the last few years that were all perfect? You should consider playing the lottery.


:lol:

Some folks seem to have better luck than others. I'm not a Gibson hater. Not at all. But it is the obvious example when folks start talking smack about 'getting what you pay for' in regards to ~$400 or $500 Korean guitars.


There was a tech in Indy that was on about a 3 week backup when they because an authorized Gibson service center and a pretty portion of that was replacing nuts that were cut too low. Maybe it was all accidental. Maybe it was an effort to make the guitar to appear to have super low action that wouldn't be found to be a problem until after the sale but seriously, if you know any authorized Gibson service centers that you can talk with honestly, it was a pretty wide problem from about 5 to maybe 2 years ago, but you'll have a lot of people that deny it for obvious reasons... such as they sell Gibsons or they've owned 40 new Gibsons.


:poke:

 

From what I read around here I've got to believe I must be one of the luckiest people in the world.

 

Going back roughly 10 years, 40+ Gibsons and all but 2 were purchased online sight unseen, and only flaw was one bad 3-way switch.

 

Maybe I should go out and get that lottery ticket and see what happens...

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yeah, those "amazing" 600 dollar Gibsons.. Sorry, but comparing anything to a company's bottom feeder models is not a fair contest.. They churn those things out so fast I'm amazed they get all 6 strings in the right order. Compare top of the line models from each company, and Gibson will win. Compare bottom of the line models from each company and Gibson will still win.

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yeah, those "amazing" 600 dollar Gibsons.. Sorry, but comparing anything to a company's bottom feeder models is not a fair contest.. They churn those things out so fast I'm amazed they get all 6 strings in the right order. Compare top of the line models from each company, and Gibson will win. Compare bottom of the line models from each company and Gibson will still win.

 

 

you havent played a melody maker. it loses to the bottom end agiles. of course on the top end you are right, theres several thousands of dollars difference though, so id sure hope gibson paid more attention to build fit and finish. gibson {censored}s stuff up too of course. the nut on my raw power was not cut right.

 

 

anyhow, as far as the bridge insert goes, because it drilled in on an angle to the top carve, the outside will always look like its poking out a hair. you can usually whack it in a little more, but its unecessary. the OP's seems a little worse than normal. gibson recesses them so you dont ge this. its purely cosmetic at least on the bridge. the tailpiece not being seated would be more serious, but still, a good whack with a rubber mallet fixes it all.

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OK, I've read all 3 pages and still haven't figured out what the actual problem is. Can someone explain this to me? I've never owned an LP-style guitar so I don't know what I'm supposed to see that's wrong.

 

 

nothing really. its just something that may annoy people visually.

 

the 'problem' is that lil bushing you see on the first picture. bushing is that lil metal sleeve that goes into the wood top of the guitar, which is RIGHT under the TOM bridge. it has these lil teeth marks to keep it from spinning around.

 

the problem is that, that those teeth should not be seen...or so people think. its not a problem as it doesn't effect the tone, or playability or anything about the guitar. also, its not a problem as gibsons also have that.

 

it just keeps people over reacting...

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...a perfect example of "you get what you pay for..."

 

 

I've seen worse problems that that on $3,000 Les Pauls.

 

That's a 2 minute repair job if you know what you're doing.

 

I would rubber mallet the bridge on its top already threaded into the insert instead of the insert itself. Less risk of denting the top.

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