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I am SO bummed about my new Agile . . .


etawful

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I mean . . . I know Kurt will make it right, and exchange it, etc. But I really, really liked the top sheet on this one. BUT, after closer inspection (and I'm REALLY surprised I didn't notice this immediately), I took a look at the bridge and noticed this:

 

bridge.jpg

 

:cry::cry::cry:

 

Oh well, at least he's in New Hampshire and I'm in MA, so it's only 1 day shipping, but still . . . I'm BUMMED!

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Wait!!! Call Kurt and tell him and he may just send you a new bridge!! that's what he did for me!! I have a cracked knob and called and they just sent a new knob (same reason my spalted top was so beautiful I didn;t want to part with it!!

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Wait!!! Call Kurt and tell him and he may just send you a new bridge!! that's what he did for me!! I have a cracked knob and called and they just sent a new knob (same reason my spalted top was so beautiful I didn;t want to part with it!!

 

That's not just the bridge though, it's the stud that's in the body pulling out. A new bridge wouldn't fix it, it would require plugging and re-drilling to fix it in this body.

 

I know Kurt will do the right thing, he was already sending me out a new switch to put in, I'm not worried about that at all.

 

This isn't really a simple fix though :(

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Can you just tap it down with a rubber mallet? If its as far in as it will go, I would just leave it as long as you can still set the height correctly. If you return it, you take a chance on getting something worse.

 

 

I guess I could try tapping it in with a mallet, but I really don't think I'd just want to leave it as is.

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Sorry - I thought you were unhappy with the pitting and didn't even see the post piece.

 

Take the strings of and remove the bridge but don't unscrew the post and try to push it down and hit with a hammer. If it doesn't go down send it back.

 

is it a slim or wide neck?

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Its possible some of the finish or some glue got down into the hole, and is blocking the stud from going all the way in. I would try pulling the stud out and cleaning out the hole with a screwdriver.

 

 

this and you could drill it deeper too!!

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Its possible some of the finish or some glue got down into the hole, and is blocking the stud from going all the way in. I would try pulling the stud out and cleaning out the hole with a screwdriver.

 

 

This, or it was never tapped all the way down to begin with. If you look at the picture, the spacing is even all the way around so it's not a defect with the route. Plus they are done on CNC machines, so that hole should be true to spec. Use a rubber mallet so you don't scar anything when you tap.

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Also keep in mind that the bridge will not "pull out", as there is no tension or force pulling up on the bridge (only downward force). If it were the stoptail I might be a bit more concerned. Just tap it down with a hammer and it'll be fine. I had an AL-2000 which had the same thing, all I did was tap 'er down.

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Call me old fashion because when I pay for something that is new, I don't want to be repairing it right out of the box before the first use.

 

 

Agreed, but when its something as minor as a bushing that needs to be pushed in or a broken solder joint its just easier to take 5 mins and fix it then spend days waiting for things to be shipped.

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My Al-3000 had the same thing but on the opposite side. I just pulled it and put a tiny bit of gorilla glue on the bottom of the bushing. Though you may want to just push it in with no glue, it is probably from changes in temp in the shipping process and once acclimated wont pull again.

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The mallet worked. Thanks guys. I've just always owned Fenders or other Strat style guitars, never had this type of bridge before, so I freaked. It looks like tapping it in worked.

 

As to expecting it to be perfect . . . that sure would be nice, but I don't expect perfection, a few minor things are to be expected. I'm more than willing to do a quick tap with a mallet since I had to change strings anyway.

 

Thanks again!

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No they're not. Agiles are hand made. Router + Template + little korean chainsmoker.

 

I chuckled. :lol:

 

I agree with the others that suggested to tap it down with a rubber mallet or a hammer using a 2x2 or 2x4 to soften the flow.

 

To those of you saying you get what you pay for, how do you explain that a good percentage of Gibsons leave with the but slots cut too low?

 

You get what you pay for even on $3,000 guitars, too?

 

The truth is, until you get to the 1 -3 man boutique shops, guitars are mostly built and finished by people that don't give a {censored} about guitars. Find your guitar that is structurally sound, then take it to a person that DOES give a {censored} about guitars, give him a little more money and likely, you'll end up with a great guitar.

 

Or learn to do stuff yourself. Either way, it's pretty closed minded to think that the only worthy guitar is one that is 100% beautiful, 100% finished perfectly, 100% structurally sound, 100% great sounding, 100% setup exactly as you like it and always 100% perfectly how you like it right out of the box.

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Also keep in mind that the bridge will not "pull out", as there is no tension or force pulling up on the bridge (only downward force). If it were the stoptail I might be a bit more concerned. Just tap it down with a hammer and it'll be fine. I had an AL-2000 which had the same thing, all I did was tap 'er down.

 

 

This is true. I have a couple of Jazzboxes that have bridges held in place strictly by string pressure alone. If you take all the strings off these guitars the bridge falls right off. They are just fine. If memory serves most violins are made this way as well and they also play just fine.

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To those of you saying you get what you pay for, how do you explain that a good percentage of Gibsons leave with the but slots cut too low?

 

 

What is 'a good percentage'?

 

I've owned over 40 Gibsons and played several dozen more, and in my experience that percentage is zero...

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The mallet worked. Thanks guys. I've just always owned Fenders or other Strat style guitars, never had this type of bridge before, so I freaked. It looks like tapping it in worked.


As to expecting it to be perfect . . . that sure would be nice, but I don't expect perfection, a few minor things are to be expected. I'm more than willing to do a quick tap with a mallet since I had to change strings anyway.


Thanks again!

 

BTW - glad to hear it worked and you know the bummer of it all? you should have put some lub in there first in case you wanted to swap the whole set of hardware for BLACK which is what I've been thinking on my spalted because you want nothing to detract from that awesome TOP!!

 

Enjoy - I love mine and it sounds totally amazing with a pup change

 

103_1064.jpg

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