How can I make a Strat a hardtail?

[Crunchtime]

I've always secretly thought of getting a Strat but the features they have don't match my preferences. I've decided my best option is to build a partscaster.

 

I scored the body on ebay today. The only problem is it is routed for an American Standard trem. I want a hardtail. I guess I should have waited for a cool hardtail body but this one looked so awesome. Also, hardtail strats seem hard to find. I should mention the inserts are already installed for the trem posts.

 

Option #1, I recall a hardtail conversion bridge for strats that fit over the trem hole. Anyone know where to get these?

 

Option #2, some type of Kahler flatmount?

 

Option #3, Install trem and block ?

 

Option #4, Would a Fender flatmount hardtail bridge cover the trem hole and post holes?

 

I don't think filling the cavity and making it look professional is something I could do myself. Any other suggestions?

[Bert-O-325]

this one gets asked a lot.

 

Option #3 is probably the easiest. Install the trem, and wood-block it and/or install 5 springs and crank the spring-claw in real tight.

[whyflipoverthefrog]

Use the normal trem. Screw the mounting screws down into the body, so the bottom of the trem is flush to the body.

 

On the back side of the guitar, you can use an extra piece of dense wood to carve blocks to fit on both sides of the steel block. Wedge those in place, ensuring a tight contact between the steel trem block and the body on each side. I've used dense scrap ash and a dremel to fit the pieces into my trem cavity. Audio physics tidbit: the blocks have to be more dense than the body wood to efficiently transfer the vibrations to the body.

 

Lastly, you can get 5 springs and attach them to the claw, and tighten the system down.

 

Those last 2 things will probably give dwindling returns in improving the sustain and tonality, but physics says it should help.

[Chippy]

I stuffed Legos in the trem cavity of my old JEM.

 

Plastic bricks =

[Crunchtime]

 

Use the normal trem. Screw the mounting screws down into the body, so the bottom of the trem is flush to the body. On the back side of the guitar, you can use an extra piece of dense wood to carve blocks to fit on both sides of the steel block. Wedge those in place, ensuring a tight contact between the steel trem block and the body on each side. I've used dense scrap ash and a dremel to fit the pieces into my trem cavity. Audio physics tidbit: the blocks have to be more dense than the body wood to efficiently transfer the vibrations to the body. Lastly, you can get 5 springs and attach them to the claw, and tighten the system down. Those last 2 things will probably give dwindling returns in improving the sustain and tonality, but physics says it should help.

 

 

 

Sounds like a plan. One question. With the trem all the way against the body will the saddles have enough upward adjustment? Sorry, I am a Strat noob.

[Crunchtime]

 

Use the normal trem. Screw the mounting screws down into the body, so the bottom of the trem is flush to the body. On the back side of the guitar, you can use an extra piece of dense wood to carve blocks to fit on both sides of the steel block. Wedge those in place, ensuring a tight contact between the steel trem block and the body on each side. I've used dense scrap ash and a dremel to fit the pieces into my trem cavity. Audio physics tidbit: the blocks have to be more dense than the body wood to efficiently transfer the vibrations to the body. Lastly, you can get 5 springs and attach them to the claw, and tighten the system down. Those last 2 things will probably give dwindling returns in improving the sustain and tonality, but physics says it should help.

 

 

Also, you say the blocks should be denser. I've used stacks of quarters held together with electrical tape. Should I just find some wood? Is oak denser than koa?

[unworthy]

Yes, hardtail bodies are not very common and when they do come up for sale they bring top dollar.

 

I have the bridge on my MIM Strat screwed down tight with 5 springs and the saddle adjustment did not prove to be a problem, but I guess it's conceivable that some might require a neck shim to make it come together. Mine still sounds like a Strat (it has a steel block) but I can palm mute without bending and pound the crap out of it without it going out of tune.

 

D

[mdrake34]

My '97 american standard has the bridge screwed down tight and 5 springs too. I wish I had a hardtail body though, I would rather have the wood back since I never use the trem.

[Belva]

http://www.kneguitars.com/vint_bod.php

You want hardtail, learn to paint. Or block your trem. BTW I have a hardtail San D body from them. Nice work. Tight neck pocket. It has become my fave guitar.

[Belva]

[Crunchtime]

 

http://www.kneguitars.com/vint_bod.php You want hardtail, learn to paint. Or block your trem. BTW I have a hardtail San D body from them. Nice work. Tight neck pocket. It has become my fave guitar.

 

 

Looks like good stuff but, I already have the body. It's a really nice koa body with rear routing and a humbucker bridge. Two options I really like. Here's the link to see it if you'd like.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300388371451&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

I've had decent results blocking Floyds so I guess that won't be a problem.

[whiteop]

Get a Tremol-No. Its's a gadget that enables you to lock the trem or unlock it if you want to use the tremolo. I like that option best myself. Locking it down will get rid of tuning issues which is what I assume you are trying to do.

 

http://tremol-no.com/

[blind radish]

not for sale, but worth looking for

 

MIJ 54 RI hardtail with 3 position switch

 

[Brewski]

SX sells a had tail strat complete - you probably want to mod but the body is alder and you can hack it to pieces cause it only costs about 130.00 with all the parts.