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Turns out my "fried" Rebel-30 head was just a shorted tube


jhall

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All is well The Bad EL-84 took out a fuse. After reading the manual to troubleshoot, that fuse protects the power amp from frying if a tube shorts out. Replaced the fuse and spun it to the EL-84 side and it popped immeadiately (I suspected the 6V6s but I was wrong). Replaced it again and spun it to the 6V6 side and the amp was ALIVE!!

SO I popped in a set of EL-84s I had around and sure enough it worked.

I'll need to find the proper way to bias this amp. THere's a test point but I don't know the bias voltage I need.

It's a little annoying that a brand new amp would have a shorted tube

(especailly after dropping 8 Franklins) but I'll live with that.

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Glad you fixed it.

When shipping, moving, or driving around with tube amps you always run the risk of damaging tubes, it's the price you pay for tube tone. I carry a set of tubes and also a spare amp in case something bad happens in transit.

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It's a little annoying that a brand new amp would have a shorted tube

(especailly after dropping 8 Franklins) but I'll live with that.

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I had that happen with a THD Univalve.

Tried one in the store, bought it, they gave me one from the back, still in the box.

Got it home, turned it on standby, plugged in my guitar, flipped it off of standby....nothing.

Checked the fuses, and one was blown. Didn't have a spare fuse on hand, so I had to wait until the next day to play it. :mad:

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No way would I keep that amp. If it's got issues now, it'll probably have issues later. Take that thing back and get another one while you still can...you'll be glad you did later...

 

 

A bad power tube is not the fault of the amp, and the fuse blowing because of a bad power tube is what the fuse is there for.

 

The amp has no issues.

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No issues right now...but there could be more hidden damage in the circuitry...if he bought it used, it would be one thing...but brand new? That thing should have zero issues, IMO...or I'd swap it for another. To each his own...
:idk:



But a bad power tube has absolutely nothing to do with the amp's circuitry. It's a bad power tube. That happens from time to time, and the fuse is there to keep a shorted power tube from hurting the amp.

Sending the amp back because of a bad power tube would be like trading in your brand new car because you got a flat tire on the way home from the dealership.

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But a bad power tube has absolutely nothing to do with the amp's circuitry. It's a bad power tube. That happens from time to time, and the fuse is there to keep a shorted power tube from hurting the amp.


Sending the amp back because of a bad power tube would be like trading in your brand new car because you got a flat tire on the way home from the dealership.

 

 

+1

 

This is why you should always buy tested tubes from a tube retailer. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of stock tubes in cheaper amps these days are wildly unmatched.

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I bought a new Kustom Tube 10 still in the box. Got home, plugged it in and it squealed wildly. Told the dealer and he gave me an upgraded new tube and it worked perfectly.


There's a reason that solid state circuitry was invented...... I'm just sayin....:)

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