Members hjcooper Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 I bought a guitar body that needs finishing but I don't want to spend much time on finishing it. I really don't even want to do the final sanding. So what might be the quickest and easiest finishes and methods to protect the wood and still allow for some resonance? I don't even care about the color as long as it's not brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mdintx Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Tru-oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Deadbeat Son Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Tru-oil Tru-oil will not meet requirement, will it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Wyatt Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Tru-oil will not meet requirement, will it? Tru oil is clear. So it depends on wood. Out of the common body woods, only mahogany will wet to a brownish tint. The rest will be "blonde" or "natural." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 I bought a guitar body that needs finishing but I don't want to spend much time on finishing it. I really don't even want to do the final sanding. So what might be the quickest and easiest finishes and methods to protect the wood and still allow for some resonance? I don't even care about the color as long as it's not brown Sounds like you really don't want to get into this project! Have you considered asking a furniture maker, gun tech, automotive paint shop or someone else doing it for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ugameus Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 I recently did a rattle can refinish. It was cheap and fairly easy. I haven't buffed it yet though. I don't know how that is going to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Angry Tele Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 nitro. You can bust out a great nitro finish in about 2 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cross.bones Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Matt/Flat black. I've rattlecanned cars, outside, in the damp and its always come out looking exactly the same, matt black!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Depends on the type of wood. Ash may need some grain filler before you prime and paint. Alder you can finish sand prime and paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members stevieb Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 You are an ideal candidate for a quart of white, flat latex and a sponge brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Orange Jackson Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 tung oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members vcnyls Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Stain it whatever color you want, then Tru oil. Or just don't finish it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hjcooper Posted March 12, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Wood is Alder. Cheap is also a requirement. White latex with a sponge brush - I like! Will it stick well enough? 1 coat? 2 coats?Flat black rattlecan - I like!Tru-oil, tung oil - not brown, per se, but don't want natural color.Pro finish - nope, costs too much.Nitro - YOU'RE FIRED! Good job so far guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlectrumPete Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Scribble all over it with whatever pens or pencils you have lying around then seal it by wiping it with a cloth soaked in white gluem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 ! Couple of coats of latex paint will cover it, just don't try to sand it smooth. It's like sanding chalk and will come right off. It'll be a rough finish though. Once you have it like you want, buy a couple of spray cans of transparent lacquer and go to town. Don't worry, you won't feel any change in resonance as long as you don't spray a quarter inch thick clear coat. Also, if somewhere down the line you feel like doing some sanding, you'll be able to bring it to a nice shine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Metalrulez Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 a couple cans of Krylon would do it rather fast or maybe a roller.:poke: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bsman Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Forgive me for saying this: but I do not believe that either tung or tru-oil actually protect the wood. If you want it protected, you'd be better off with a gloss or semi-gloss rattle-can finish... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Wyatt Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Forgive me for saying this: but I do not believe that either tung or tru-oil actually protect the wood. If you want it protected, you'd be better off with a gloss or semi-gloss rattle-can finish... You would be wrong. Both protect the wood, that's why they are used. Tru-Oil actually cures up into a hard finish as well. Just check out any nice gun stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Darkstorm Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Mingwax all in one sealer, tint and finish. Wipe on 2-3 light coats. Let each dry. Lightly buff and smooth with ultrafine sandpaper. Done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members TESmith Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Spray paint primer and a light or dark base coatTHEN Shoot paint balls at it?[YOUTUBE][/YOUTUBE] Or spray Chalkboard paint let some kids scribble all over with chalk and clear it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members raviolio Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 I find "wipe-on" finishes to be very quick, cheap and easy. As already mentioned... Tru-oil is one way to go; a wipe on poly is another (and even less expensive) option. And don't confuse the poly you find at a paint store with the too-thick catalyzed resin/poly finishes that we see on many (especially import) guitars. The wipe-on (or spray if you choose) poly by companies like Minwax, et al... can give a very nice, durable, yet thin finish. Just wipe on very thin (but also very wet) coats with a soft piece of cloth (I usually fold them up into a 'pad'), let dry for a couple of hours (depending on climate), then go over it with extra fine steel wool, and then buff with a soft rag (old t-shirt). Repeat the steps listed above as many times as you need to achieve the desired finish. You can get good basic protection with just a few thin coats. Or you can build up several coats and buff out to a very nice finish. Either way, it's very easy and unlike spray cans, you can do a wipe-on finish pretty much anywhere (you won't have to worry about overspray and/or ventilation). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DriveBy Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Since no one else has suggested it...throw it in a pond. Wipe thoroughly with bacon. Buy a {censored}ing poncho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Orange Jackson Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 There are cheap, easy to use, and good quality, http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/fencuscol.html I don't think you could find anything cheaper that will look better. The key to them is to do pretty light coats, and to take your time.You can do 3 coats a day. Look for the ones that don't need a clear nitro coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cratz2 Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 To the OP, if you honestly just want it cheap and fast, I'd rattle can it. And matte sure hides a lot of flaws. Forgive me for saying this: but I do not believe that either tung or tru-oil actually protect the wood. If you want it protected, you'd be better off with a gloss or semi-gloss rattle-can finish... I'll forgive you but yeah... you are wrong. At least in regards to the Tru-Oil. My father in law has a TC muzzle loader that he finished in Tru Oil about 30 years ago, has taken it hunting in the snow every year except two and it doesn't look perfect, but it looks damn good. I would add another coat or two every few years, but he hasn't. I'll try to nab a pic next time I'm down at his cabin if the lighting is decent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members CrackerD Posted March 12, 2010 Members Share Posted March 12, 2010 Latex with Nitro over it? Not a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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