Members rusholmeruffian Posted July 15, 2010 Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 Any recommendations on which one to use on ash? I bought a spray can of Zinsser clear shellac a while back but haven't opened it yet, and I'm thinking of returning it and getting something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jelloman Posted July 15, 2010 Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted July 15, 2010 Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 Shellac is cool but be careful...alcohol will disolve it. Don't spill your whiskey on it. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jelloman Posted July 15, 2010 Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 Shellac is cool but be careful...alcohol will disolve it. Don't spill your whiskey on it. EG as a sanding sealer it is without peer...several coats of nitro or poly on top and the drunks can't hurt it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rusholmeruffian Posted July 15, 2010 Author Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 as a sanding sealer it is without peer...several coats of nitro or poly on top and the drunks can't hurt it...Yeah, it's going under 4-5 coats of satin poly.Plus, I don't drink, which is probably a bigger risk to any shellac finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted July 15, 2010 Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 Shellac is wonderful stuff and the Seal Coat is the only pre-made / canned, off the shelf product I would recommend. the other stuff, even Zinsser stuff has too many additives in it to increase shelf life that will keep it from ever curing properly. The best is to mix your own from flake or button. The raw flake can be had in several nice natural tones that can add a nice natural looking amber tone to your project. Shellac.net is a good vendor for nice flake and priced right.Here is some maple that had a couple wash / sealer coats of some Kush flake then topped with Tru Oil.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Jkater Posted July 15, 2010 Members Share Posted July 15, 2010 I suscribe to this thread... (see my NGD for details) and will ask for more help and advice in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members copperheadroads Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 one thing good about seal coat is its pretty much compatible with any kind of finish but compared to a good sanding sealer it sands like poop . don't forget to fill your grain in ash i will sink without it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Angry Tele Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 I used deft nitro sanding sealer with good results..You can use shellac or just clear nitro but the whole TADA with SS is that it sprays on thicker (or rather has bigger particles?) and makes for less coats to fill in all the low spots. (even after grain filling youll have tons of low spots) To get a perfect flat surface with just nitro takes a lot more coats, where 2 or 3 SS coats you're golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JZ Guitars Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 I strictly use Behlen Sanding Sealer. Dries clear and fast and is fairly easy to sand. Very reasonably priced in quarts too. I also would fill the grain first. I like McFaddens grain filler in natural for ash, or even clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rusholmeruffian Posted July 16, 2010 Author Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 I really don't mind a lot of low spots on an ash body; as long as there aren't any voids, I'm happy. I've played a few ash-bodied basses before that were strictly oil-and-wax jobs, and they felt great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MahaloVision Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 You usually want to match the sealer with whatever the finish coats will be. Flake Shellac is pretty much universally OK with whatever finish you want to throw on top of it. If you're good with French Polishing, you can fill the pores with the shellac/oil/pumice in a traditional way, and some people just use epoxy slightly thinned with alcohol. Or buy some clear pore filler, but I've never had great luck with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 as a sanding sealer it is without peer...several coats of nitro or poly on top and the drunks can't hurt it...Yeah, with something else on top, the alcohol won't bother it.I was thinking he was going to use the shellac AS the finish. Beautiful stuff but somewhat fragile for guitars. Especially the alcohol angle. A lot of booze gets consumed and spilled around guitars for some reason. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 You usually want to match the sealer with whatever the finish coats will be. Flake Shellac is pretty much universally OK with whatever finish you want to throw on top of it. If you're good with French Polishing, you can fill the pores with the shellac/oil/pumice in a traditional way, and some people just use epoxy slightly thinned with alcohol. Or buy some clear pore filler, but I've never had great luck with those. Many purists freak, but epoxy is an outstanding grain filler. Quite permanent though. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members blackmonday Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 I got mine from reranch. It's a spray can. Haven't used it yet, though, still working out some cuts in the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 The Reranch in the quarts (nonaerosol) has incredibly high solid content. It'll fill valleys. Brush it on and sand it smooth. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MahaloVision Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 Many purists freak, but epoxy is an outstanding grain filler. Quite permanent though. EG I've done it on a few guitars with good results, sanding all the way back to bare wood. Some people just level it and put finish on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Angry Tele Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 I tried epoxy but it was a major PITA! When that stuff dries it takes some serious sanding to get it off, unlike oil based grain filler you can glob that stuff on and it comes right off, epoxy you must get all the excess of right away or you're screwed... I recomend practicing first on scrap wood and see if it works for you. It did not work well for me at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted July 16, 2010 Members Share Posted July 16, 2010 I tried epoxy but it was a major PITA! If your going to use an epoxy, the best I've used is the Z-Poxy finishing resin. Its thin, spreads easily, and sands wonderfully, just make sure its the finishing resin version. LMI has a little write up here and you can also find it in most hobby stores http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Filler&NameProdHeader=Z%2Dpoxy Here is a good YouTube showing the squeegee method. . [YOUTUBE]YYHxMg7n9cI[/YOUTUBE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.