Members FoonkySteve Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 For my 1st build, i need to get a 5way switchblade selector, pots, a fender strat jack plate and an input jack. I also need 3 single coils. What's the deal with quality here? I am looking to build a really great versatile axe. I have most of this stuff pending in my shopping basket at guitar fetish. Although i've not quite pulled the trigger yet. I should mention the pickups quality at this stage are not too important, as i will be switching them out as and when finances allow, so cheapies to start with, just to get the guitar working:) If i was to buy a used squier loaded pickguard, how would that compare in quality to the GFS stuff?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 GFS are full sized pots. They could be Alpha. They seem ok to me, have worked fine anyhow.Are you building on a squier body? I like the Ernie Ball 5-Way Strat Switch and switchcraft jacks if you want to spend that much. You would be better off with a GFS loaded pickguard than a Squier IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 GFS stuff is good. Don't get one of the box switches from GFS or anyone. As far as the Squier pickguard, it depends. If you get it from one of the Special Editions they are really nice pickups for cleans, not so much with gain. I think dollar for dollar you are going to get better pickups and components if you don't get a prewired one and do the little bit of work yourself and may not need to start out with throw-aways You want one of these: NOT one of these (box switch) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FoonkySteve Posted February 2, 2011 Author Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 GFS stuff is good. Don't get one of the box switches from GFS or anyone. As far as the Squier pickguard, it depends. If you get it from one of the Special Editions they are really nice pickups for cleans, not so much with gain. I think dollar for dollar you are going to get better pickups and components if you don't get a prewired one and do the little bit of work yourself and may not need to start out with throw-aways You want one of these: NOT one of these (box switch) Cool thanks! im going to investigate this further. I think i would have to start with throwaways at the moment, as im keen to get the guitar playable, im puuting a hotrail in the bridge, a fender tex-mex in the middle and a sustainiac in the neck. I'ts gonna be pricey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Another vote for the type of switch described. The import, box type switch is junque. I've been sidelining as a tech for 3 years now, doing about 2-5 guitars a week. I see bad import switches more often than any other guitar gremlin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 -CTS audio taper pots-Orange drop cap-Switchcraft five way switch-Switchcraft jack-Nice, neat, short run wiring-Good, solid, solder points with no one inch wires ends sticking up like antennas. Cut 'em real close to the lugs.-Shield the entire cavity and underside of pickguard (must be connected to ground)-Braided pup leads Pups of your choice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 -CTS audio taper pots-Switchcraft five way switch-Switchcraft jack +1 Those are the often recommended parts by brand name, and I would have no problem recommending any of them but... I have had CTS pots that have been as much as 20% off spec. Alpha and CTS are both equally good IMO. Alphas are easier to rotate, CTS a bit stiffer. Not saying either is good or bad, but a preference Neutrik jacks, etc are every bit as good as Switchcraft, and a Fender switch is top quality if you can't find Switchcraft or if $ is an concern (it all adds up) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 +1 Those are the often recommended parts by brand name, and I would have no problem recommending any of them but... I have had CTS pots that have been as much as 20% off spec. Alpha and CTS are both equally good IMO. Alphas are easier to rotate, CTS a bit stiffer. Not saying either is good or bad, but a preference Neutrik jacks, etc are every bit as good as Switchcraft, and a Fender switch is top quality if you can't find Switchcraft or if $ is an concern (it all adds up) True. Back when I was doing a lot of modding, I usually had 10 or 12 of those CTS around and just used the ohmmeter to match up three or four of the closest readings. You're right, there's a lot of good parts out there on the market. I guess what I was trying to say to the OP is do it right the first time and you'll only have to do it once. Might as well do the whole thing while you're at it too and that's why I recommended the shielding and stuff. I did all that work on my Strat, except I used a Hovland cap. It was well worth the added expense and work. One of the things I like about it is how quiet it is. Zero hum... nada... zip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 True. Back when I was doing a lot of modding, I usually had 10 or 12 of those CTS around and just used the ohmmeter to match up three or four of the closest readings. You're right, there's a lot of good parts out there on the market. I guess what I was trying to say to the OP is do it right the first time and you'll only have to do it once. Might as well do the whole thing while you're at it too and that's why I recommended the shielding and stuff. I did all that work on my Strat, except I used a Hovland cap. It was well worth the added expense and work. One of the things I like about it is how quiet it is. Zero hum... nada... zip. All true except the cap horse {censored}. A cap is a cap and there ain't a swingin' dick here that can tell the difference in tone from one type of cap to another. Cap value is another story. That said, the quality and consistency of Hovlands may be better. I don't know. I'm doing guitar repair on the side and have people bring cheapies for a pup upgrade to me. I always recommend shielding and installation of quality parts. You won't hear a tone difference at all. But quality stuff is peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 There is cap horse{censored} and there is cap validity. One of the valid points is quality of manufacture. Another is tolerance. If your component is made of poor materials, assembled poorly or way out of spec it will affect tone. That said, I agree that cap mojo = snake oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 All true except the cap horse {censored}. A cap is a cap and there ain't a swingin' dick here that can tell the difference in tone from one type of cap to another. Cap value is another story. That said, the quality and consistency of Hovlands may be better. I don't know.I'm doing guitar repair on the side and have people bring cheapies for a pup upgrade to me. I always recommend shielding and installation of quality parts. You won't hear a tone difference at all. But quality stuff is peace of mind. Yeah, guess that's true too. I've never compared caps of same value so I wouldn't know. I happened to have that Hovland on hand and used that. It works fine, just like the Orange caps I've used. Don't necessarily need to spend a ton to get quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Paper in snake oil caps are the best. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members c2rex Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 What value should the cap be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 There is no "should" but rule of thumb (or a good starting point) .047uF for single coils, .022 for HBs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I used a .022, works fine for me and I have a treble bleed hooked up too. Some prefer the 47, saying the .022 makes their guitars too dark. Aren't those paper-oil caps really expensive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I got a PIO cap for like $5 to see what it did. There was a time I thought I heard a difference, but I recently did some swapping around with a ceramic cap that measured the same value. I couldn't hear anything. For $5, I guess it's cool, but no way I'd pay big bucks for one. Put a .015 in my Alleykat and I'm liking it. Can get good sounds all the way down to 2 or 3 on the tone knob. The shift isn't as dramatic and you don't have to be so spot on with it. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members c2rex Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 What about the wiring? Anything special about specific wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 22 guage stranded seems pretty standard. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I used just plain ol' plastic covered wire. Used black and red and just kept everything neat and tidy. I've used the more expensive cloth covered wire in the past put couldn't tell any differences besides the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 Exactly. Were you repairing a 59 burst, maybe....Radio Shack wire is the same as everybody else's. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I ususally just use regular stranded wire. Although, I've used cloth pullback and braided wire, but purely for looks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted February 2, 2011 Members Share Posted February 2, 2011 I'm a fan of solid core wire from Rat Shack. 24awg I think. Stranded or solid won't have an effect ot toanz either but I find solid easier to use. I can bend it where it needs to be and it stays there long enough for me to solder it in place. Once again, that's just me. Use whatever is the best for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.