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is it impossible to get an es-335 to get say the action of like a schecter?


Still.ill

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im actually pretty sure now that its a truss rod problem....

it has all the symptoms

 

(i have to get the action really high to even get 1.5 step bends)

also when i do that trick with fretting the lowest fret/highest fret theres a moderate sized gap at the 7th fret....

 

think i will get the pro setup

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what is a moderate sized gap?

A business card? a sheet of paper? a quarter?

generally the gap should be around a business card thick at the 7th.

 

What gap is there on the Schecter and what string gauges are you using on both guitars?

 

Where are you bending and where do the bends fret out? eg 12th bend up and fret out at which fret?

Knowing that on the neck may help figure it out.

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what is a moderate sized gap?

A business card? a sheet of paper? a quarter?

generally the gap should be around a business card thick at the 7th.


What gap is there on the Schecter and what string gauges are you using on both guitars?


Where are you bending and where do the bends fret out? eg 12th bend up and fret out at which fret?

Knowing that on the neck may help figure it out.

 

 

well i know that the gap is significantly bigger than the one on my schecter

 

probably like 4 business card together

bends fret out around yeah

12-15 fret

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Don't be a girly-man. Higher action equals better tone, just ask Stevie Ray...oh...wait...nevermind.


Seriously, guitar playing is more rewarding if you have to fight it a little.

 

Sometimes, it's nice to go beyond Blues Rock Guitar Intermediate Course Vol. 2. :thu:

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im actually pretty sure now that its a truss rod problem....

it has all the symptoms


(i have to get the action really high to even get 1.5 step bends)

also when i do that trick with fretting the lowest fret/highest fret theres a moderate sized gap at the 7th fret....


think i will get the pro setup

 

Too much relief can lead to problems like you describe. I'm sure it will be sorted after the setup. And, I bet the tech has one of those retainer wires for your bridge around. ;)

 

Gorgeous guitar btw. :thu:

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Tighten the trussrod a bit and see if it helps. There's no need for a pro setup for minor adjustments. Shouldn't take you more than a minute or two. Assuming the frets are good, getting good action is just a matter of getting a good balance between the bridge height and neck bow.

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well i took it to this guy called norio imai

he agreed with my observations.....

 

i forgot to tell him that the retainer wire i got for my bridge was rattling.... so i texted him about it... do you think he'll fix that in the general setup?

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well i took it to this guy called norio imai

he agreed with my observations.....


i forgot to tell him that the retainer wire i got for my bridge was rattling.... so i texted him about it... do you think he'll fix that in the general setup?

 

 

He'll probably notice it when he gets to the intonation, but I'd definitely give him a heads up just to be sure.

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also another thing about the bridge.... i noticed the strings didn't sit exactly in the middle of the saddle but intonation was still pretty fine.... is that a problem?

 

 

As long as they are in the notch it's fine. The notch may or may not always be in the center. The notches are spaced for the neck, not the saddles themselves.

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As long as they are in the notch it's fine. The notch may or may not always be in the center. The notches are spaced for the neck, not the saddles themselves.

 

 

shweet

 

well i'll get the es-335 back in a week i hope it plays awesome... should be apparently norio is one of the best techs in the world... he does work on keef's teles

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Don't be a girly-man. Higher action equals better tone, just ask Stevie Ray...oh...wait...nevermind.


Seriously, guitar playing is more rewarding if you have to fight it a little.

 

 

 

So long as you don't care about intonation.

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You would probably be well served to check the radius of your strings coming out of the saddles. The notches are supposed to be spaced for the neck just like mrbrown49 said, but the depth of those notches are also important; especially for action.

 

And you would need to measure it underneath the strings, not above because of the different gauges. There are special tools for this...personally I wouldn't buy them.

 

Now you don't need exacting measurements down to the micron, but if you've got a string that's particularly troublesome check to see if that sucker isn't actually coming out of the bridge lower than the surrounding strings.

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