Members k tone Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 DupliColor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 9, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 ok, so far duplicolor has my eye, almost everybody mentions it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members The_Pin Posted June 9, 2011 Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 so, with a proper amount of clear coats, it'll end up being a hard surface? You just have to let each coat cure for as long as possible in a warm, dry place and it will set pretty damn hard. Never had problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted June 9, 2011 Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 Yes. I've done quite a few rattle can paintjobs. Two or three flake jobs....the key is prep. Make it smooth. Primer correctly. Sand properly between coats (including clear coats). Wet sand after it's cured properly and polish. Done. Perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 9, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 This is a rattle can refinish. Que te parece? although it does look awesome, fender-like, that is not what i'm looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 9, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 change of plans... how can I achieve this? printing it out on a huge ass photo paper/ printing it on a decal and the clear-coating it? would it work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted June 9, 2011 Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 I know this may sound like a stupid question to many of you, but i really dont know... what's the difference between enamel, acrylic, and lacquer? Lacquer was the first big commercially available chemical paint. It largely took the place of shellac in guitars. It combines solids (originally cotton, or nitrocellulose, now also acrylic) in lacquer thinner. When you spray, the petroleum based thinner evaporates very quickly, leaving a hard surface that's easily polished. Very flammable and toxic with extended exposure. Acrylic generally refers to more modern lacquers like Duplicolor. Acrylic lacquers are more durable and colorfast than nitro, although even nitro is better than it was in the day thanks to UV inhibitors and such. Lacquer is susceptible to "clouding," as well in high humidity. You need dry air to spray lacquer. Nitro lacquer is also easily damaged by many common chemicals, including insect repellant and most modern rubbers and foams. Lacquer "melts" the previous coat when you spray, so applying multiple coats is easy and touhups and repairs are simple as well. Enamel was developed partly because of the dangers of working with lacquer. It, too dries to a very glossy surface. The big drawback is in how it gets hard. Enamel doesn't "dry," but cures through oxidation. This means the paint has to be in contact with air to cure. If you apply a coat that's too thick, air can't get to the wet paint under the cured surface and you get rubbery paint for up to a year. When cured, enamel will sink into the grain much more than lacquer will, revealing any flaws in your surface prep. If applied in extremely thin coats, enamel can cure quickly, but it's tough. EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 9, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 Lacquer was the first big commercially available chemical paint. It largely took the place of shellac in guitars. It combines solids (originally cotton, or nitrocellulose, now also acrylic) in lacquer thinner. When you spray, the petroleum based thinner evaporates very quickly, leaving a hard surface that's easily polished. Very flammable and toxic with extended exposure. Acrylic generally refers to more modern lacquers like Duplicolor. Acrylic lacquers are more durable and colorfast than nitro, although even nitro is better than it was in the day thanks to UV inhibitors and such. Lacquer is susceptible to "clouding," as well in high humidity. You need dry air to spray lacquer. Nitro lacquer is also easily damaged by many common chemicals, including insect repellant and most modern rubbers and foams. Lacquer "melts" the previous coat when you spray, so applying multiple coats is easy and touhups and repairs are simple as well. Enamel was developed partly because of the dangers of working with lacquer. It, too dries to a very glossy surface. The big drawback is in how it gets hard. Enamel doesn't "dry," but cures through oxidation. This means the paint has to be in contact with air to cure. If you apply a coat that's too thick, air can't get to the wet paint under the cured surface and you get rubbery paint for up to a year. When cured, enamel will sink into the grain much more than lacquer will, revealing any flaws in your surface prep. If applied in extremely thin coats, enamel can cure quickly, but it's tough. EG thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cratz2 Posted June 9, 2011 Members Share Posted June 9, 2011 I've done one Reranch, one Krylon and one Valspar. The Reranch was from a batch of their 'Coral' that was a bit too orange and I did three coats of the vintage amber tinted clear... I unevenly sprayed the pickguard to try to mimic uneven aging. Other than letting it hang for 30 days, I have no beef with the Reranch route. I went as thin as possible as I initially considered going the relic route with this one... this is either my #1 or my #2 and it still looks pretty much like the day I finished with the paint work. The Krylon was a success, but it had a failure because of user error. I did three great coats then on the fourth coat, I got a horrorific crinkle situation... but it clearly says right on the can to either do one or two coats or let it dry for 48 (or maybe 72) hours before a third coat which I didn't wait that long. I did get one more coat than suggested though. Sanded out the crinkles, hit it with one more coat, let it dry for maybe 5 days and wet-sanded just a little bit. I didn't use a clear at all. I like the results enough that if I were to do another guitar with either Reranch or Krylon, I'd lean towards Krylon. I did this maybe a year ago... maybe 9 or 10 months ago and no flaking or cracking. This one shows the color a bit more realistically and shows the surface just a bit more. This one is Valspar. I haven't put this one back together yet, but I was basically using it as a test bed before I apply the same finish to an SG Jr. No problems... very straight forward. I hit it with two coats of the Triple Thick clear. I like the color and I will be doing this on the Jr as time allows. I can't comment on how durable the finish will be of course... but it certainly passes the finger nail test. This was after all the color coats but before any sanding or clear so you can see some orange peel, esp on the bevel. And this was done by a local guy using prepared spray acrylic so it technically is a rattle can finish, but by a pro guy using pro paint. There's no clear and only about 1.5 coats of the red and white... I wanted to keep it as thin as possible and looking towards it wearing down quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members flatheadpete Posted June 10, 2011 Members Share Posted June 10, 2011 Here ya go.....[ATTACH=CONFIG]335715[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]335716[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]335717[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 10, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 10, 2011 nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 11, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 11, 2011 change of plans... how can I achieve this? printing it out on a huge ass photo paper/ printing it on a decal and the clear-coating it? would it work? no one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted June 11, 2011 Members Share Posted June 11, 2011 DupliColor This times a bazillion. I've moved to using a touch up gun for clear, but I still use Duplicolor for the color coat. Take your geetar apart. Feather edge any nicks. scuff up the rest with 220 grit. Get two cans of B.I.N. shellac based primer. Go super light with this stuff, it runs like mad if you don't. Once you have it smooth, use one can of the Duplicolor in the shade you like. Get 3 cans of the Duplicolor clear. Go to reranch and read up on guitar finishing. Follow the steps there. Duplicolor is an acrylic lacquer and is about the best thing available. It also comes in a bazillion colors. You can get it at any well stocked auto parts store. The nicest part? Write down the paint number of keep the can of color. WHEN it's time to touch it up, you can get the same color easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 12, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 12, 2011 This times a bazillion. I've moved to using a touch up gun for clear, but I still use Duplicolor for the color coat. Take your geetar apart. Feather edge any nicks. scuff up the rest with 220 grit. Get two cans of B.I.N. shellac based primer. Go super light with this stuff, it runs like mad if you don't. Once you have it smooth, use one can of the Duplicolor in the shade you like. Get 3 cans of the Duplicolor clear. Go to reranch and read up on guitar finishing. Follow the steps there. Duplicolor is an acrylic lacquer and is about the best thing available. It also comes in a bazillion colors. You can get it at any well stocked auto parts store. The nicest part? Write down the paint number of keep the can of color. WHEN it's time to touch it up, you can get the same color easily. DO explain, how often is this?also, this KINDA means that the duplicolor clear finish isnt very durable? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cratz2 Posted June 12, 2011 Members Share Posted June 12, 2011 If you want a thin finish and you want it to look perfect, every traditional finish will eventually need to be touched up. Factory poly finishes last forever because they are usually very thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.