Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Hey guys! I have a Dean Zx which I wanna paint myself, since most people around here either: charge too much, or do cheap ugly stuff, and since it's a cheap guitar, if I damage it, it won't kill me... Now, is it possible to get a nice, factory-like finish with spray paints (say Krylon or Rustoleum). My main concern is that this kind of paint is kinda "soft" and gets removed and can be scratched very easily. I know that i should apply a sh!t-load of coats, specially the clear coat, and not to mention sanding. But, with the right amount of coats and dry-time, is it possible to get a Shiny and Hard finish? thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members *BLEEP* Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Krylon is a fairly worthless paint for geetars. It becomes too brittle after a while and begins to flake and crack. There are good rattlecan aerosol paints to be had, though... http://www.reranch.com/products.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members axegrinder Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 In a word, yes it is very much possible to get what you are after out of a rattle can. Some people here poo poo the idea, but considering your guitar is not a vintage monument protected by your local historical society, have at it. Rattle can finishes are rock n roll anyway. You should do some searching on here for some how-to's. Also ReRanch.com has a lot of valuable info...and they sell some pricier products if you want to replecate some of the more popular guitar finishes. I did these Squiers in Rustoleum Metallic with Deft clear coats...on both I acheived a thin, hard, resonant finish that feels silky to the touch...just the way nitro should. It sounds like you are interested in a poly finish, so it's just a matter of finding the product for you. Be aware that preparation is a huge part of the job as is patiently waiting for paints to cure. The quickest way to a crappy finish is by trying to go fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 oh yea, forgot to mention that shipping isn't an option :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members axegrinder Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 If you have Home Depot, Lowes, or Walmart in PR you should be able to find something. Sand paper products are probably a bigger issue. I used MicroMesh sandpapers to polish out mine (i.e. no buffers/polishers). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 yea, I was referring to the "specialty" guitar paints :/ I can pick up rustoleum or krylon, or many other brands here. About the Sandpapers, the highest I have seen is about 300, although I havent checked in auto-paint stores yet. for the dry-time, i have time, what would be a proper drying time for each coat? oh, and about the 'hardness' lemme give you an example: say u have a new guitar out of the store, with a factory finish, vs a home-painted (from the wood up) with enamel (or acrylic, whichever is better) guitar, and you press upon the body of the guitar with your nail; the Factory finish will probably get a light scratch, if anything, and the home-painted one will get marked, like a 'scar', to put it that way, Right? btw, nice job you did there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members The_Pin Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 clear coat the hell out of it. and make sure you let each layer cure for as long as possible. ideally give each coat 36-48 hrs to cure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 clear coat the hell out of it. and make sure you let each layer cure for as long as possible.ideally give each coat 36-48 hrs to cure so, with a proper amount of clear coats, it'll end up being a hard surface? also, before I forget: I know this may sound like a stupid question to many of you, but i really dont know... what's the difference between enamel, acrylic, and lacquer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dicky sofa Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 ReRanch gives me a stiffy... Krylon is a fairly worthless paint for geetars. It becomes too brittle after a while and begins to flake and crack. There are good rattlecan aerosol paints to be had, though...http://www.reranch.com/products.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 You can buy primer,paint and clearcoat from auto body supply shops. You will get a much better quaity paint than any can. Also you can have any color mixed in small bottles.Get hardner for your clear coat and it will be tough as it gets. To apply it use a Preval Spray Gun. http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/preval-paint-sprayer.aspx I have also used Dupli-Color primer, paint and clear coat cans and it worked well. I tried a rust type paint once and it was pretty bad. Had kind of a rubbery feel to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Now, is it possible to get a nice, factory-like finish with spray paints (say Krylon or Rustoleum). thx This is a rattle can refinish. Que te parece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members notjonahbutnoah Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Hey there! It's quite possible to do, and I'd just listen mostly to axgrinder. Taking your time is key. Also, just to show you, this is what going a little too fast, not sanding enough, and using krylon color with krylon clear coat can yeild: If you look on the upper horn there, and you may hafta tilt your monitor back a little, you'll see all the tiny cracks. These happened a few months after I panted this guitar. It's just from not using enough clear, and not sanding it properly between coats. Personally, I love it because it makes it look 50 years old, but that doesn't seem to be the vibe you're going after, so just take your time, and spend the money on the clear. That's where the perfect hard finish you want comes from. That and sanding. If shipping's not an option you may hafta so a little searching for some supa fine sandpaper. 320 is the highest my local store has, and while that gets things pretty damned smooth... it's not like glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members alfsboy Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Bear in mind the factory "poly" is 2 pack isocyanate , not rattle can poly .Different stuff altogether Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 No, shipping sandpapers is ok Whats not ok is shipping paints, most stores wont ship outside of CONUS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members EdgarSatriani Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Dude when I lived in PR (Toa Alta) what I did was, I went to an auto paint store, selected Corvette yellow and the guy prepared a rattle can with pro tip for me. I think it was like $10. The formula he prepared was glossy and the finish was super hard, so no clear coat was needed. I painted a strat and I changed the white pickguard to a black one. Wish I had a picture of her, but to this day I haven't seen a strat look so bad ass than mine in color combo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members axegrinder Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 The finish on mine is hard, but remember it is wood underneath. So a concentrated blow is going to result in dents to the wood and breaking of the paint surface. I know this first hand because that green strat body was accidentally knocked off the couch onto the marble floor when I had taken a break from wet sanding. The finish crumbled like an egg shell where the contact was made. I repaired the finish but didn't bother with trying to fill the ding...it was the back edge of the body anyway. While a thin brittle surface may not offer the best protection, it allows your guitar to "age gracefully". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members harold heckuba Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 I cant recall his name but there is a guy who sells pamplets online on how to paint guitars using Krylon. He did a series of articles in either GP or GW magazine, including a complete how-to. If you can get someone to copy you that series of articles, that may help. He paints VH style paintjobs, Vai swirl ones, even sunburst, all using Krylon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mutant_guitar Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 No, you can't get a factory finish out of a can. You can get a BETTER than factory finish out of a can. Here's two of my guitars I painted with spray cans. The first I did with ReRanch color coat and Minwax Clear. The second I did with Duplicolor color coat and Minwax Clear. Lacquers cure up hard, but they take forever. I let both guitars cure for a month before I started the final sanding/polishing work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hyperlite Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Mutant...fantastic job, beautiful result ya got there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 damm! that looks awesome!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mutant_guitar Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 thank you. They took a lot of time and patience, and plenty of mistakes along the way. As posted above, reranch.com is a great resource. I learned everything I know form there. their forums are a great resource. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tvvoodoo Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Rattlecan entirely possible. Take your time, research the materials you will be using. Wait for the proper conditions. Don't breath in the chems. They are VERY, VERY BAD. Here's a better shot of the krylon checking - I too really dig it, even if it is a mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members munizfire Posted June 8, 2011 Author Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 I know this may sound like a stupid question to many of you, but i really dont know... what's the difference between enamel, acrylic, and lacquer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members axegrinder Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 I know this may sound like a stupid question to many of you, but i really dont know... what's the difference between enamel, acrylic, and lacquer? I refuse to offer an answer because I was schooled on the subject recently and left confused. Suffice it to say paints have come a long way from the way they are packaged to the way regulations have imposed the way they get made. The bottom line is you really should stay within the same brand when choosing a color paint and a clear coat. Do that and you should be fine. I found a recipe that has worked for me twice (Rustoleum/Deft), but my next project involves paint mixed in an auto paint store (like Edgar Satriani did on his yellow strat). I have no idea which clear is going to work, so I will have to shoot a sample with clear over it before going to live on my actual guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members flatheadpete Posted June 8, 2011 Members Share Posted June 8, 2011 Yes. I've done quite a few rattle can paintjobs. Two or three flake jobs....the key is prep. Make it smooth. Primer correctly. Sand properly between coats (including clear coats). Wet sand after it's cured properly and polish. Done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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