Members Meowy Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I just got my new MM neck (rosewood on maple) for my build. I am thinking if I want to Tru-Oil it or just go with the factory finish? I am not so concerned about protection, but thinking more than anything the Tru Oil will give it a bit more depth and color Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ej Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 Tung oil bro. It'll feel a lot better. Maple is hard enough that you can get away with not finishing it and it'll hold up fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Canadian Jeff Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I think you should finish it with cat piss. Or Play with the poly finish for a bit then, if you don't like it, oil the neck. Tung oil bro. It'll feel a lot better.Maple is hard enough that you can get away with not finishing it and it'll hold up fine. If you don't mind a horrid looking piece of maple then yes, you can play it unfinished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ej Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 If you don't mind a horrid looking piece of maple then yes, you can play it unfinished. Yeah, it gets all dirty and stuff but that's the charm This was my strat after about a year of regular playing on the unfinished neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 21, 2012 Author Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I think you should finish it with cat piss.OrPlay with the poly finish for a bit then, if you don't like it, oil the neck.If you don't mind a horrid looking piece of maple then yes, you can play it unfinished. It has a very light finish , seems like almost a film of oil. I think maybe I will give it a quick 0000 buff and put on a coat or 3 of tru oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Larry the Dog Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 Just use Tung oil.....I finished my warmoth body and neck with it about 2 years ago - it still looks great, and the neck is super smooth..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members vintage clubber Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I left mine as is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jelloman Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 They come from the factory with a thin layer of sanding sealer, which is just very thinned out shellac...if you are planning on using a penetrating finish, like tung oil, you may want to sand off this layer. A film finish, like poly, will lay nicely on top of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members catalinagooseV2 Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I installed mine as is. It has a finish on it already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted February 21, 2012 Author Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 They come from the factory with a thin layer of sanding sealer, which is just very thinned out shellac...if you are planning on using a penetrating finish, like tung oil, you may want to sand off this layer. A film finish, like poly, will lay nicely on top of it. Ah That's what it is .. Sanding sealer! So I could probably strip with 600-800g and then tru oil. Fret ends could use a quick touch up. They are not bad but It wouldnt hurt to hit them with a file. For $70 new, I'm not complaining Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members linusâ„¢ Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 don't bother trying to remove the sealer, just go straight to oil. I've seen lots of great results over on reranch's forum of folks oiling those necks. Even Quarter (local truoil/lapsteel genius) uses shellac under truoil with amazing results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members billybilly Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 don't bother trying to remove the sealer, just go straight to oil. I've seen lots of great results over on reranch's forum of folks oiling those necks. Even Quarter (local truoil/lapsteel genius) uses shellac under truoil with amazing results. Yep, shellac is an excellent primer as a lot of wood workers will recommend it. Easy to take off though if you don't want it. It really does not matter from my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaleH Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 Ah That's what it is .. Sanding sealer! So I could probably strip with 600-800g and then tru oil. Fret ends could use a quick touch up. They are not bad but It wouldnt hurt to hit them with a file. For $70 new, I'm not complaining just smooth it with steel wool and tru oil over the sealer.You can tru oil over poly, it's just like varnish. It dries hard and does not soak in like oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I wouldn't refinish it. The MightyMite necks I've bought are sold as fender licensed replacement necks and have the same finish (polyester) as a MIM Strat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MrPFloyd Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 the one i bought has a satin finish, so i left it. amazing feeling neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members flummox Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I wouldn't refinish it. The MightyMite necks I've bought are sold as fender licensed replacement necks and have the same finish (polyester) as a MIM Strat. Yep. The MM necks I've owned have all had thin satin poly finishes. With some 2000 grit finishing paper and compound you can get a nice mellow gloss out of them. They don't need anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted February 21, 2012 Moderators Share Posted February 21, 2012 Ah That's what it is .. Sanding sealer! So I could probably strip with 600-800g and then tru oil. g Forget about trying to remove the sanding sealer just go straight over with Truoil, as you'll use less and they are compatible, 3-5 coats if you want to feel the wood with a light rub over with 000 steel wool aftre 2 coats and then 0000 aftre your 5th coat, go to about 10-12 if you want a full hard finish, but make the coats as thin as you can. If you ever want to know how to use Tru-oil to it's very truest potential, contact Quarter (Tom) who makes the lapsteels and he'll run you thru the process of using an oil and sanding slurry mix to get glass like finishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members -=Pennywise=- Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I like the satin poly finish on the MM necks, feels very slick, run a piece of scotch brite over it lightly and it's even slicker. I have 3 guitars with these necks and love em. I do admit though, the fret ends need to be filed a bit and the nut sucks, but I like my graphtech tusq nuts so they get that treatment as well. How does everyone else find the fretwork in terms of getting a decent action on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members poolshark Posted February 21, 2012 Members Share Posted February 21, 2012 I installed one for a friend, and it sure didn't have much finish on it. Started to wear through on the fingerboard before long, but otherwise, the neck is solid as a rock. I was actually really surprised by the nut and fretwork on his; I'm sure he got a lucky one, but I had zero problems setting it up for low action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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