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gp2112

For quite some time it was frustrating...

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Just spent about five hours installing a Fender 5-way in my guitar to replace the worn out one.

I own a Behringer iAxe Metalien 629. I bought it last year because it was dirt cheap and it was my first electric. It is HSS config an the five way went out so I lost my neck pickup.

I have never soldered anything nor done any work on a guitar before. The switch that came with the Behringer was real different than the Fender switch (similar to the Ibanez type switch) and after removing it things got kinda hairy. I had a Seymour Duncan HSS with one tone, one volume diagram but it did not help.

Much of my time was spent on-line trying to find a diagram that would work and I finally found one. The soldering would make a tech weep (not overdone, not messy, but not professional) but it works now!

When I re-strung it and played I found that I was able to nail the Slash tonez, the most sought after tonez in the world. Glad I changed that switch out.

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Quote Originally Posted by gp2112 View Post

When I re-strung it and played I found that I was able to nail the Slash tonez, the most sought after tonez in the world. Glad I changed that switch out.
Wow! So toan is in the switch? I gotta change mine.

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Quote Originally Posted by gp2112 View Post

When I re-strung it and played I found that I was able to nail the Slash tonez, the most sought after tonez in the world. Glad I changed that switch out.
Wow! So toan is in the switch? I gotta change mine.

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Quote Originally Posted by BluesTuesday

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Wow! So toan is in the switch? I gotta change mine.

 

Yes, but he also put on new strings, so it could be the strings instead of the switch or 50/50 or 40% switch and 60% strings or...............................smile.gificon_lol.gificon_lol.gifsmile.gif

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Quote Originally Posted by BluesTuesday

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Wow! So toan is in the switch? I gotta change mine.

 

Yes, but he also put on new strings, so it could be the strings instead of the switch or 50/50 or 40% switch and 60% strings or...............................smile.gificon_lol.gificon_lol.gifsmile.gif

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Hopefully you actually progress with your soldering. I have been working on my guitars for 10+ years and my soldering is still {censored}. Works great but looks terrible.

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Hopefully you actually progress with your soldering. I have been working on my guitars for 10+ years and my soldering is still {censored}. Works great but looks terrible.

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One the last Ibby's I bought was a rats nest that took two days, trial and error. Kinda burnt me on working on guitars. Very frustrating. Even now, I find it prudent to just practice a few minutes soldering before I take it to the guitar...it's really worth it to have clean connections, good ground, or your just chasing your tail with hum, buzz, stuff that doesn't work.

That said, there is a reason why they made 5 ways, why they have HSH, vs HH or SSS configurations, why they have coil tapping, why we have modelers, eq, effects.....more tonal options.

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One the last Ibby's I bought was a rats nest that took two days, trial and error. Kinda burnt me on working on guitars. Very frustrating. Even now, I find it prudent to just practice a few minutes soldering before I take it to the guitar...it's really worth it to have clean connections, good ground, or your just chasing your tail with hum, buzz, stuff that doesn't work.

That said, there is a reason why they made 5 ways, why they have HSH, vs HH or SSS configurations, why they have coil tapping, why we have modelers, eq, effects.....more tonal options.

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One the last Ibby's I bought was a rats nest that took two days, trial and error. Kinda burnt me on working on guitars. Very frustrating. Even now, I find it prudent to just practice a few minutes soldering before I take it to the guitar...it's really worth it to have clean connections, good ground, or your just chasing your tail with hum, buzz, stuff that doesn't work.

That said, there is a reason why they made 5 ways, why they have HSH, vs HH or SSS configurations, why they have coil tapping, why we have modelers, eq, effects.....more tonal options.

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One the last Ibby's I bought was a rats nest that took two days, trial and error. Kinda burnt me on working on guitars. Very frustrating. Even now, I find it prudent to just practice a few minutes soldering before I take it to the guitar...it's really worth it to have clean connections, good ground, or your just chasing your tail with hum, buzz, stuff that doesn't work.

That said, there is a reason why they made 5 ways, why they have HSH, vs HH or SSS configurations, why they have coil tapping, why we have modelers, eq, effects.....more tonal options.

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Good for you for having a go at it. I've been there, first time or two I almost smashed my guitar on the pavement outside. It gets easier and it is rewarding.

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Quote Originally Posted by billythegoat View Post
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Hopefully you actually progress with your soldering. I have been working on my guitars for 10+ years and my soldering is still @#!*% . Works great but looks terrible.
It could be that you are using the wrong type of solder, too much or too thick a solder wire.

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Quote Originally Posted by Steadfastly View Post
It could be that you are using the wrong type of solder, too much or too thick a solder wire.
Not really sure what I have been using to tell you the truth. I think I just saw "Electrical Solder" and grabbed the first one.
The spool reads.. Electrical Rosin Core Solder .062"/1.6mm, too thick?

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Quote Originally Posted by billybilly

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Good for you for having a go at it. I've been there, first time or two I almost smashed my guitar on the pavement outside. It gets easier and it is rewarding.

 

lol. Yeah I've been there. I kinda learned to walk away, leave it be, then when I was ready to go at it again, my mind was in a better place to solve the problem and i got it fixed.

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If it's not here you most likley don't need it.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/
I started out with that one. Quick story to go with the Seymour Duncan diagram: There is a luthier by my house who used to own an instrument store in the South Bay area of SoCal and then moved the store to Lake Elsinore. When he was in the South Bay Gilby Clark worked for him as a kid. The luthier's son is in the guitarist for Alison Krauss and Union Station.

Anyway, the luthier recommended the Seymour Duncan site and I downloaded the diagram but it would not work with my guitar/switch combo. Finally found a diagram that was easy to understand, and worked for the guitar, on StewMac.

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Quote Originally Posted by billythegoat View Post
Not really sure what I have been using to tell you the truth. I think I just saw "Electrical Solder" and grabbed the first one.
The spool reads.. Electrical Rosin Core Solder .062"/1.6mm, too thick?
Yes, I think so. It's a little hard to tell without seeing it in person but I just looked at my ruler and that seems a bit large in diameter. The problem with this is when you're melting the larger diameter solder, it naturally melts a larger amount than is required. The next time I'm in the Source or Home Depot, I'll check on the smallest diameter they offer and let you know what I find. I may also have some left in the garage so I'll look there too.

Okay, I tried Google instead. Here's a link to the article I found. It suggests for electronic soldering 1.0mm is the correct size. Weller suggests only 2-3 seconds maximum soldering on the joint as more than that will result in too much solder on the joint. I hope this is a help to you.

http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

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I used to think that I had no soldering talent until I finally bought a Weller soldering iron and ditched the cheap one I'd been using. It makes a world of difference being able to control the heat so you have enough to melt the solder without instantly vaporizing all the flux. Also the tip is shaped properly and a better metal alloy so it doesn't oxidize as fast. I use the 63/37 solder from RadioShack and am having no problems with it, though I have been thinking of trying lead-free solder again.

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